Possibly cause a code 52 and 24? I had these codes before, and the car intermitently stumble going down the road....when the stumble occurs, the CEL will flash off, then come right back on again. It could drive fine for 2 hours....then stumble again. Ive replaced the TPS,O2 sensor, plugs/wires. Still no luck. after i replaced all this stuff, i reset the ECU(unhooked battery). after hooking it back up, can ran just fine for over a week, until the CEL came back again, with just a 52. now today, the 52 and 24 are back, and the car is stumbling again. any ideas? MAP related you think? its about the only thing i havent replaced, other than the ECU.


1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
390's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

i've had so many MAP sensor problems as of late.

i fried #1, with the TPS override circuit that i made.

then i went to a junkyard and found another one.

i installed the used one. the car worked fine until i hooked up my TPS override circuit. sensor #2 fried.

at this point i realized that i was burning out sensors.

today i located a local Neon guy who had an extra '95 MAP sensor lying around. i bought it off of him for $10.

i get home, and no matter WHAT, the sensor outputs .95 volts regardless of manifold pressure. yeah, i already completely removed my TPS override.

i'm having a grand old time!

but anyways, to answer your question, usually if a MAP sensor is bad it will get stuck at 1 output voltage. my #1 was stuck at 5.0 volts, my #2 got stuck around 2.0 volts, and the pre-broken one i bought today was stuck at .95 volts.

if you have a completely dead MAP sensor like the ones i've been going through, the car should start, idle, and be stable so long as you don't change the RPM on your own by letting up on the clutch, putting it into drive, or even breathing on the throttle.

a flaky MAP sensor does ALL sorts of weird stuff. before my #1 sensor completely died, i ran SO rich when driving around (especially when downshifting and letting off the gas) that i'd backfire constantally. yeah, it threw a LOT of flames out of the exhaust. to retarded people, my car probably looked cool. to me, it was a mess.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

One thing i noticed today.....when the "stumble" would occur, i could look at my digital AF gauge, and it would be PIG rich for about 5 seconds after it stumbled, then it would start cycling again. Like at idle when it would stumble, right after that, i could watch the reading on the O2 go OVER 1V for a couple seconds, then slowly drop down and start cycling again. Im hoping its the MAP, ive had so many damn electrical problems, its getting frustrating.


1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
390's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

Originally posted by Nitrous_RS1997
One thing i noticed today.....when the "stumble" would occur, i could look at my digital AF gauge, and it would be PIG rich for about 5 seconds after it stumbled, then it would start cycling again. Like at idle when it would stumble, right after that, i could watch the reading on the O2 go OVER 1V for a couple seconds, then slowly drop down and start cycling again. Im hoping its the MAP, ive had so many damn electrical problems, its getting frustrating. 1997 Silver RS Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!) Eagle Rods T3/T4 Turbo Custom FMIC Greddy Exhaust 390's Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

*Skrilla
"Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me"
Talon: 1st 2.4L
'97 Prelude
'04 350Z

Originally posted by etx
Good luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!

and then when you step on the gas it would be pig rich again. I have the exact same thing happen. I'm thinking it's the inline fuel pump related. I would have to take the fuse off the inline pump to shut it off and let my car run for like 15 minutes to let it burn off all that extra fuel. Then I would put the fuse back in and the car would drive fine for awhile.

intricatelines.com/ -graphics and vinyls

"Tell them of us and say,
For their tomorrow,
We gave our today."
-- The Kohima Epitaph

well, i dont have an inline pump. Just the Walbro in-tank. it snowed like crazy outside today, so im gonna change it tomorrow morning. Hopefully it fixes the problems.

1999 C5
1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
390's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)