Okay I was driving home and for some damned reason while taking a turn at about 35 miles an hour - WIDE turn, across 3 lanes, the fucking car lost control. I hit the curb sideways (basically sliding into the curb) at about 30 miles and hour. I went onto the curb and then the car stopped. I quickly drove home. There is NO body damage to the car, but now the front right wheel seems to be making some kind of grinding noise. The transmission seems fine, although the clutch now makes a sort of squeaking noise. The brakes seem fine. The alignment doesnt seem off. No damage to rims or tires, but the steering wheel seems much harder to turn now. Does anyone have any idea of what could be wrong? Im going to take it to the mitsu dealer tommorow - but I want to know the possible damage and cost of repair. I dont know what else to describe, so ask any questions and ill answer them.
Thanks.

NeoVB
1997 Eclipse GS

NeoVB
2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS
1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS TURBO
1995 Mitsubishi Galant ES DOHC TURBO
1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

you might have messed up that wheel's hub bearing assembly and as far as the tranny the impact may have moved something out of place in it or something.. but imnot sure on both, just a guessing possibility..


-Jason



95 GS

Short-air ram - custom grill - removed front license plate - custom stereo system - 2 Kenwood 10's powered by Kenwood amp - Hiper Blue Headlights - F&R Upper Strut Bars - 2 fan mod - Energy Suspension Bushings

-Jason

97 Talon ESi-T (forever in progress...)


95 GS (Gone)
16.74@83.18mph
119.8 whp - 113.3 lbs/ft


2GNT #677
My Wiki Page: www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Iamnotwhoiam
Pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/iamnotwhoiam/Talon/

Okay update - I just went back to the place where I hit the curb with my friend. I also drove my car around to see what is wrong. According to the skidmarks, the front wheel did not go onto the curb, it only hit it and bounced off - there is a scratch on the front-right rim. The rear-right wheel did go onto the curb. My friend also reports that the rear right wheel seems to wiggle from left to right when driving. Maybe te problem isnt in the front, maybe its in the back? Anyone have any clues??

NeoVB
1997 Eclipse GS

NeoVB
2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS
1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS TURBO
1995 Mitsubishi Galant ES DOHC TURBO
1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

My brain is shot so bare w/ me. Go get an alignment for sure. There's a 3 letter acronym that they use but basically it determines cross- camber /caster alignmnets from side to side. If it is out then you did some sort of permanent damage(control arms bent usually) Go to any ind. shop and make sure they have a HUNTER (or similar) machine so they can print out your final alignment. Also in the front grab hold of your CV shafts and push back and forth. If it's excessive, then you need a a new shaft(CV joint is included). If your worried about the tranny, first look for leaking(assuming its manny). Mannual trans won't waste time showing you if something is wrong--they either work or they don't. If your worried that you did frame damage, here's one easy check. Look at where your suspension parts connect, and look for scraped paint. If the paint is scraped from the frame then all I have to say is Sorry. Hope any of this helps.

Shit is all apart. Typical...

I can't tell you much about what happened with your tire grip and all not knowing the exact setup of your car and how you were taking the turn. Most cars with FWD (even with professional suspension setups) suffer from a problem that has to deal with wheel power. See with FWD the wheels you turn also are the ones that put power to the ground to make it move. When taking a corner at too high a speed or when putting power to the ground while the wheels are turned the tires lose grip easily although you may have done a rear slide also, i can't pin this on your front tires without knowing the situation. But just to let you know... I used to have this problem all the time, taking 90degree turns in a FWD at 35MPH i lost traction frequently when trying to put up my exit speed which ended up throwing my car or just keeping me in the direction i was originally moving when i lost grip. Hope that makes sense, this still happens to me a bit but i can control it now. I do a lot of autocross racing and I choose a FWD car just so i can wow the people haha. Hope this helps you understand a bit what happened. IF you learn you can start taking 90's at 60MPH in a cheap FWD car haha.

Yes 90-degree angle turns are a TON of fun!


"Kaptain Mike"
theblueghost@hotmail.com
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/Kaptainkillgore/index.htm
AIM= "KaptainKillgore" or "KaptainMyke"
1997 RS

There's a 3 letter acronym
>that they use but basically
>it determines cross- camber /caster
>alignmnets from side to side.
>If it is out then
>you did some sort of
>permanent damage(control arms bent usually)

If permamanet damage was done, approx now much would it cost to fix?

> Go to any ind.
>shop and make sure they
>have a HUNTER (or similar)
>machine so they can print
>out your final alignment.

Would mitsu dealer do this?

Also
>in the front grab hold
>of your CV shafts and
>push back and forth. If
>it's excessive, then you need
>a a new shaft(CV joint
>is included).

If it is the joints + shaft, once again whats the approx on the price?

If your worried
>about the tranny, first look
>for leaking(assuming its manny). Mannual
>trans won't waste time showing
>you if something is wrong--they
>either work or they don't.

The tranny doesn leak or anything, and if shifts fine, but for some reason the clutch is making the noise, it seems to be coming from the pedal.

>If your worried that you
>did frame damage, here's one
>easy check. Look at where
>your suspension parts connect, and
>look for scraped paint. If
>the paint is scraped from
>the frame then all I
>have to say is Sorry.
>Hope any of this helps.

Im new at car stuff, so do i look in the tire well or under the hood or what?

Thanks guys.

NeoVB
1997 Eclipse GS

NeoVB
2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS
1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS TURBO
1995 Mitsubishi Galant ES DOHC TURBO
1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD

Take it to the dealer, make them SHOW you all the problems. Could be control arms, bent rim(have it balanced and look for wobble from side angle hit), hub bearings, hard steering(maybe rack&pinion?), have alignment checked for sure(any drastic measurements---you bent something)and see how far it is out. The best thing to do as far as bent parts is a very good visual inspection and move the steering back and forth(on a rack not under a load)to check for freedom of movement.

If the cost/damage in minimal(alignment/tire rebalance)just pay the $100 and be on your way. If it is structure, buy the parts yourself(after you know exactly which ones are bent)and install them. Then go get an alignment/wheel balance somewhere. Mitsu will hammer you on cost of installation on every single part. I saw a lady recently pay $350 for a diagnostic/plugs/wires/fuel filter on her 2GS-T. She said it was running bad----57K on original plugs/wires/fuel filter.....I was laughing my ass off. Those tune-ups are a must

If cost is REALLY high....then you might want to think about filing an insurance claim to save you everything besides the deductible

DeanoD
1997RS-NeverTurbo
#62 STS SCCA Arkansas Region
http://arscca.org

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

In general I stay away from Satan(dealerships) unless I have recall, warranty work, and "dealer only" parts. If you really want ot go to a dealer, than make sure that they only whack you with a min. labor/inspection fee.(like 60 bucks or so) And then subtract the last 300 items they say that "need" to be serviced. I know that there are some REALLY good dealers that support the "need for speed" and won't make up stupid excuses for why something broke due to aftermarket mods. Each ind. dealer does things different, and thus carry diff. kinds of equipment. Pretty much if the car doesn't pull real hard one way or the other than there was no expensive damage. Local parts places get like $65 for cv shafts(CV joint is included) but subtract the 60 core that you get back for your old one. I usually pick up the phone before I drive anywhere. Call places and explain to them what happened. Probably good idea to ask for a technician who does alignments. Service managers talk alot about nothing. SOme are also very good though. Questions don't cost money. I would have to hear and see the clutch noise. The rear wheel could be wobbly just b/c you wacked it and knocked the hammer-on weights off or unbalanced the tire which is easily fixed by unmounting the tire and sliding around the rim to recomposate for the run-out. Cost of that kind of work would be like 60-100 bones. Goodyear and Sears Auto centers could that work quickly and easily. Sorry for being so lengthy. Also if there is real damage, post where you live. I know that alot of fellas will come knocking to help a brother out. (if you live near me have beer ready!)

Shit is all apart. Typical...

The car is at the dealership now... they charge 78$ for an inspection - hopefully they'll be done soon. In the case that some large shit has to be replaced - anyone live in the NYC Metropolitan area? Thanks for the tips though, ill post when i get the results back from the dealer... I think im going to go and snap some pics of the skids and the grass damage hehe.

NeoVB
1997 Eclipse GS

NeoVB
2005 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS
1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS TURBO
1995 Mitsubishi Galant ES DOHC TURBO
1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD