Just as the topic says.. What's the real difference? I mean I have spun a bearing and I have locked up an engine.. The only thing that I can think of that requires engine oil is crank, cams, rods, oil pump and seals. When I rebuilt my engine when I spun a bearing last year, I replaced all of those things and more, now that I have locked up an engine, what differences are there? And I mean technical things, not little stupid things that I'm very aware of. thanks fellers

~STV~

if you spin a bearing depending on how bad it is you should only have to replace the bearing itself, if it is worse then have teh crank machined or even replaced, if you lock an engine that means you are siezing the piston to the cylinder, not good, in this case you would somehow try to get that piston freed, probably will pop loose once cooled and you would then have to have your cylinder bored and honed becuz im sure the piston would seriosly scare the cylinder and have the bottem end rebuilt. in both these cases though i see no reason for having to replace cams n what not thats in the head and would not be damaged by either case.


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well the first time I rebuilt it b/c of a spun bearing, I went ahead and changed everything to new. that's why, the cams are scarred now since I locked it up.. I guess it locked up, I'll find out tomorrow.. and w/ the boring and all, I dont have the time nor the money to do that, I have a spare block though, so I may just use that instead, thanks man.

~STV~

Ok. Here is what I am thinking. IF I did seize my engine (locked up), I need to get my cylinders bored and a new rod and 4 new pistons. I am saving for a nicely built bottom end that I am going to do w/ my turbo install, so I dont wanna waste any money. Here is my plan IF I seized my engine. I have a parts car, which means I have a spare block, which has been tested and is in great shape. I know for a fact that I have atleast 1 good rod/piston, b/c I bought it from Corbin So that means if my other rods and pistons are shot, I have to get 3 more twins (rods pistons). And just build everything the same as planned. I mentioned the cams, b/c they need oil to turn on their journals, which I know my exh cam journals are scarred. I wont really know until tomorrow if I do need to do this or not, b/c I'm pullin my motor in the morning. I think it'll take me about 3 hours to pull it from scratch. I'm fast.
Here is what happened.. me and my girl were drivin back to my house, hit a hole/pothole on the side of the road, it was dark so I didnt see it, and if you have been to SWVA and have been on route 460, you know how the roads are. I hit hard, no oil light came on or anything, so I kept driving b/c we've all hit potholes before, well ends up my engine starts rattling (spun bearing) and my car died. I tried to start it and it screeeeetched, wouldnt start. I towed it the next day, put my spare oil pan on, replaced the spun bearing, added oil. turned and it wouldnt turn. so I got my mom to push me w/ her van until we were at about 10 mph, and I popped the clutch, it started. ran fine for 4 days and then that std bearing went. So does this mean my engine is seized or what? notice my exh cam is scarred which means it was totally dry of oil. however I did use some federal mogul rod/main bearing lubricant on everything that was metal to metal. this stuff is great, if you get it on your hands, it takes alot of time to get it off.. so hopefully it may have saved my ass.. I guess I'll find out tomorrow..damn sorry for such a long post.

~STV~

anyone?

~STV~

if you could not start your engine it did not sieze. if you seize it the pistons will not move they will be stuck inside the cylinders and not able to move


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this is amusing. there is no sticking to the cylinder wall. it welds itself to the wall. the block would be junk. if thats the case grab a junkyard block from a neon or eclipse and start over.

400whp or bust.

not amusing at all actually, I have a spare block as I stated before, it didnt start at first until I popped the clutch very hard.. Which possibly broke it loose? but if that were the case I think it would have ran like shit, and it didnt, it ran fairly well, minus the small knock in it.. thanks guys

~STV~

That bearing that you replaced probably just went bad on you again. The clearances are very tight on those bearings. I would guess that you just need to have the rod journals turned down a notch and go with some undersize bearings.


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with stock rods you have to replace them, you cant get them machined. I was told this last time I spun a bearing, you are right about the tolerance thing, I just needed my car, so I rigged it up as long as it would last like that. IF you notice on stock rods where the rodcap and the rod connect, they only go on a certain way... that's called a machine break, its cheaper to produce a break after they are heat treated and then cooled to hardened, instead of cutting the rod and getting the flats perfect. Thanks though. I think my main concern is my whole oil system, since my car essentially ran w/o any oil.

~STV~