Gotta get to my rear main seal and i want to know what would be the easiest way to get to it, should i pull the motor out or just drop the tranny ? I have pulled a few motors before but never droppped a tranny and i have heard that it is a bitch, also im gonna go in with a spec stage 3 modulated clutch while im at it, any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Stephen
#68495, "RE: PULL MOTOR OR DROP TRANNY ?" In response to Reply # 0
To me, if you have a lift, dropping the tranny would be MUCH easier. No undoing the whole wiring harness and all the connectors that way. Pulling the whole motor just to do the rear seal is a little overboard.
1997 Silver RS Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!) Eagle Rods T3/T4 Turbo Custom FMIC Greddy Exhaust 390's Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)
#68516, "RE: PULL MOTOR OR DROP TRANNY ?" In response to Reply # 3
Here is some info written by Dino I was pointed towards for removing the axles......
"Take the two bolts out of the front trailing arm (90* curved suspension arm behind the front wheel) where it bolts to the frame, and the one boltfrom the lower control arm where it mounts to the frame and let them hang. Next, take the bolt out of the strut mount fork and let it come down. This'll give you enough non-alignment-disturbing suspension play (because the only thing left holding it is the tie rod balljoint and the upper a-arm balljoint) to have one person pull the hub assembly away from the car while you use a prybar between the diff housing and inner axle cups (those green things). You'll have enough room to take the axles totally out of the trans without disturbing your alignment. To completely remove the axles, take out the cotter pin in the axle hub, and use (i think a) 26mm socket to take the castle nut off the axle shaft. From there, you make be able to use a deadblow hammer to pop the axle out of the hub."
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