i have heard that for the first time start up after a rebuild, i should let if idle at about 2000rpm for at least 45 min, check for leaks, retouque anything if needed then test run. 500 miles w/o boost then 500-1000 miles low boost, then after 1000-1500 miles i can full boost. anyone have any other input that might be more specific to our cars? thanks.

USED TO HAVE...Everything you wish you had, and then some...

You are somebody special Tim, you matter! - from the admins (but nobody likes you, because your username is just like that other guy's, and you whine a lot)

Just make sure you prime that oil pump!!!

how do you prime the oil pump?

USED TO HAVE...Everything you wish you had, and then some...

You are somebody special Tim, you matter! - from the admins (but nobody likes you, because your username is just like that other guy's, and you whine a lot)

my builder tossed the "break in" advice I had printed out... He told me to do this: accelerate to 50, decelerate to 30. repeat, repeat, repeat over and over... No boost... to like 500 mi... then I could do as I wished. I think.. Oil change within first 20 mins... then first 200 mi... then at 500... I forgot whether it was dino or synthetic.. probably dino for the first two steps...

FS: 2.5" Test Pipe 25 shipped

you undo the little cap on its top and add some oil to it. Some people will fill the pump with Lithium grease or something like that too, but I think if it's on the engine already, you could just fill it up with oil.

As far as break in, there are numerous schools of thought. One of the important things to remember is to load the rings during deceleration too. In other words, ease her up to mid range in the rpms and then let her slowly rev back down without putting in the clutch.

Congrats on getting it back together man!

I would start it up and rev to about 2000 and back off over and over for about 20 minutes. Then change oil. Then take it for a drive doing 55 to 30, over and over. You dont want to beat the engine from 30 to 50 but dont take it slow either. I would do this for like 20-30 minutes, so find a road with not a lot of traffic so you wont be bothered. After that your rings well be seated so I would then drive it like you plan on driving it in the future. If you plan on racing a lot and beating it at 10 psi then break it in at 10 psi. Breaking an engine in is actually not an exact science but theres no reason to break an engine in by babying it for 1000 miles then beat the shit out of it after that. Also when you rebuilt your engine did you check clearences? They say a loose engine is a happy engine. If the clearences were on the looser side you might get away with a faster break in.

to prime the new oil pump fully, this is what I did and used: bought some petroleum jelly, put some gloves on, make sure your roommates are gone, b/c it may look a lil' weird. haha. anyways, put oil in the bottom of the oil pump where the oil pick up tube goes, then keep pressing it in there until it wont go any further, then simply by hand or a set of pliars opened up, turn the gears on the oil pump, very slowly, adding vasoline or whatever all the time, until it comes out the other end. bamb done, may take a little while, but that is how alot of people do it, and that's how I recommend. It stays caked in there as long as you dont turn the crank. But keeping it dry is a very bad thing to do.. g'luck man

~STV~

the problem with this method^^^^ is that i already have the motor together. Its in the car now, but while it was in the air i removed the cap thats just under the alt. bracket and poured a little oil in there.

EDIT:
Shit!!! just looked at the service manual and i missed the whole sentance about priming the rotor something or other BEFORE install!!!How bad is it if its dry on initial start up? how long could it really take to circulate some oil in there once started?

USED TO HAVE...Everything you wish you had, and then some...

You are somebody special Tim, you matter! - from the admins (but nobody likes you, because your username is just like that other guy's, and you whine a lot)

Fill the oil filter with oil as well.

Easiest way to prime the pump after the motor is n the car? Crank it until it makes oil pressure without starting it. The starter turns at 350-400RPM, and it'll take about 15-20 seconds before you'll see oil pressure, but the lube you used on all the bearings will keep them safe until the oil pressure comes up.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Thanks. Its a new melling pump so i didnt have to lube anything. I ASSUME its lubed from the factory???????

USED TO HAVE...Everything you wish you had, and then some...

You are somebody special Tim, you matter! - from the admins (but nobody likes you, because your username is just like that other guy's, and you whine a lot)

I lubed mine

~STV~

lube it, lube it good -write that down

__________________________________
-Ryan

into shape, shape it up

~STV~

Ghettoraid gave the best way to break an engine in. the Accelerating/Decelerating seats the rings. Thats exactly how we break in all our engines and they have ALL lasted.


1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
390's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

Originally posted by Nitrous_RS1997
Ghettoraid gave the best way to break an engine in. the Accelerating/Decelerating seats the rings. Thats exactly how we break in all our engines and they have ALL lasted. 1997 Silver RS Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!) Eagle Rods T3/T4 Turbo Custom FMIC Greddy Exhaust 390's Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

FS: 2.5" Test Pipe 25 shipped