I'm trying to take off my underdrive pulley and I'm having a problem. The Harmonic balencer puller I bought doesn't have the right sized bolts to go into the threaded holes on my UDP. Does anyone know what the correct size is?(diameter/threads) Is it metric, is it standard?
#67597, "RE: AFX underdrive pulley & harmonic balencer puller" In response to Reply # 0 Jan-30-04 01:27 PM by XtremeRS
Originally posted by fungul I'm trying to take off my underdrive pulley and I'm having a problem. The Harmonic balencer puller I bought doesn't have the right sized bolts to go into the threaded holes on my UDP. Does anyone know what the correct size is?(diameter/threads) Is it metric, is it standard? Thanks for your help, Dean.
standard 3/8" bolts. Get bolts that are at least 4" long too..This is for the AFX pulley, don't know about the other ones out there...
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
#67606, "RE: AFX underdrive pulley & harmonic balencer puller" In response to Reply # 1
3/8 Course thread. Make sure the bolts are all the way in or you can strip the threads. If you have already stripped the threads, then you can run the bolts all the way through and put a nut on the back side and still pull it off.
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#68194, "RE: AFX underdrive pulley & harmonic balencer puller" In response to Reply # 3
I rented a harmonic puller from autozone, of course it isnt the right one, but I "rigged" it up w/ some long 3/8 course bolts as mentioned above. It will work, even the bolts may bend a lil' but that's ok, as long as they are screwed in deep enough that they support the pull. As for the 3-jaw puller, I dont think that will work for a harmonic dampener, b/c of the biggest radius thickness is too thin and it'll break. Atleast it was when I tried it good luck. the one I rented looks very simple, its a metal rectangle that has 2 grooves on each side and one big center threaded hole for the threaded dowel, the 2 grooves are for the 2 bolts you need to buy.. good luck man.
#68197, "RE: AFX underdrive pulley & harmonic balencer puller" In response to Reply # 4
Yeah, DON'T use a 3 jaw puller on the AFX pulley. You can easily damage/bend the aluminum. A harmonic puller works just fine, and is what should be used..I have taken mine off countless number of times without one problem..
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
#68208, "RE: AFX underdrive pulley & harmonic balencer puller" In response to Reply # 5
Originally posted by XtremeRS Yeah, DON'T use a 3 jaw puller on the AFX pulley. You can easily damage/bend the aluminum. A harmonic puller works just fine, and is what should be used..I have taken mine off countless number of times without one problem..
Oh yes for the love of God don't use a 3 arm puller on the AFX or any underdrive pulley. They are all threaded for a harmonic damper puller, and come off the best that way. I've removed an re-installed my own UDP more times than I can count, let alone others. So much easier than the stock pulley. Of course everything is easier with impact tools.
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#68254, "RE: AFX underdrive pulley & harmonic balencer puller" In response to Reply # 6
really the UDP fits better......do you notice any additional vibration from the pully. The stock pully has a harmonic ring and the af/x does not. any long term affects?
#68268, "RE: AFX underdrive pulley & harmonic balencer puller" In response to Reply # 7
i've had mine on for 2 years.
no problems.
however, if you don't bang it in all the way and align it correctly when you first put it on, you will throw belts every time you go above 6000 RPM's. this happened to me, and i almost got stuck many times with no battery voltage.
my car will run for about 15-20 minutes under full eletrical load (headlights on, CD player on, highway driving, and all of the other aftermarket crap on it like fuel pumps and stuff) before the battery will die and there will be simply not enough amp hours left in the battery to generate a spark to run the engine. been there, done that. at night. good thing i didn't have anywhere special to be, it was an adventure getting stuck less than 2 miles from home.
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good luck. the one I rented looks very simple, its a metal rectangle that has 2 grooves on each side and one big center threaded hole for the threaded dowel, the 2 grooves are for the 2 bolts you need to buy.. good luck man.
