#67452, "Help. Failed emissions test # 2, S-AFC question."
Okay so I failed a second time and they will no longer do the sniff test as a fall back if it fails OBD-II. THIS SUCKS!!!!!
I need to clear ALL engine codes!!!
I got the engine codes down to 3: Coil A Coil B MAP
Coil A & Coil B should be due to the ignition amp and a faulty tach adapter. If I bypass ignition amp I should be in the clear with these two.
The MAP code has been on since I installed the S-AFC. I know other have had the same issue. If I simply bypass the S-AFC MAP wire (unplug the S-AFC input/output) and leave the rest of the S-AFC should be okay. Has anybody verified this? Or an I going to ave to disconnect every freakin' wire from the ECU harness.
I'm damn worried at the moment, they will start suspending drivers licenses in a few weeks. THIS SUCKS!!!!!!!!!1
#67459, "RE: Help. Failed emissions test # 2, S-AFC question." In response to Reply # 1
why don't you just unplug the light that lights up the check engine soon. You can at least wire it up to like the check oil light and then it'll be on when the cars on. idk just a thought
#67463, "RE: Help. Failed emissions test # 2, S-AFC question." In response to Reply # 2
Originally posted by redeclipset why don't you just unplug the light that lights up the check engine soon. You can at least wire it up to like the check oil light and then it'll be on when the cars on. idk just a thought
Lol, its not the light they look for. Its the codes they pull from the computer. there is an OBD-II port under the dash by your right knee. The CEL is merely a reference for the driver. To remove the codes from the computer you either have to fix the problems, or reset the computer using a scan tool/datalogger. The only problem with clearing the codes is the computer needs a certain number of miles or trips which it also monitors.
Quoted from the OBD-2 helpfile: Note: the above clear/reset will command the MIL off (engine running) since monitoring has been reset. Drive and warm-up cycle counts will reset to 0 Manufactures can perform other clear/reset actions. If problem is corrected the MIL light will go off and code will be erased in future with time depending on monitoring conditions of code type drive and warm-up cycle counts.
If you will have a state inspection make sure enough driving conditions are performed to complete readiness monitor status to at least the minimum number not completed ( 1 for year 2001+, 2 for year 96-2000 )
So if you can clear your codes and get enough trip states then it should pass.
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#67466, "RE: Help. Failed emissions test # 2, S-AFC question." In response to Reply # 3
Just bypass the AFC with the map signal. Easy enough.
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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#67479, "RE: Help. Failed emissions test # 2, S-AFC question." In response to Reply # 4
I agree with 'redeclipset'.... take out your instrument cluster and pull the CEL bulb out. Mine would always be on throwing a 'excessive rich mixture' code when I had my SAFC installed and errrrr "tuned"
#67483, "RE: Help. Failed emissions test # 2, S-AFC question." In response to Reply # 5
Michael97RS HAS NO CEL BULB!!!!!! its on his toolbox!!! read the above post about how the light doesnt mean shit. its only a reference, pulling the bulb doesnt get rid of the code. the cel codes are stored in the ecu. he needs to fix the problem.
#67505, "RE: Help. Failed emissions test # 2, S-AFC question." In response to Reply # 5
Originally posted by Tygermethd I agree with 'redeclipset'.... take out your instrument cluster and pull the CEL bulb out. Mine would always be on throwing a 'excessive rich mixture' code when I had my SAFC installed and errrrr "tuned"
Doh...that actualy would make a perfectly fine obd II car fail in my state...the obd sys tests if the light is working...and if the light is not operational....fail...even though the light might have not been on....(at leas here in NV we fail people till they get the CEL light operational by law)
and no reseting the ecu to make the CEL go away dosent work either before someone brings that up....you need to run a standard time that brings your ECU out of closed loop operation (safe mode) for it to be able to give the emmisions machine the right data.....
having a 95 is kinda sweet ...no obd II tests for us hehehe (just must have dummies up of all the emissions sys to pass and good 4 gas reading)
#67491, "RE: Help. Failed emissions test # 2, S-AFC question." In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by DarkOne Just bypass the AFC with the map signal. Easy enough.
that would definately work (i had to do that once), if he was still running stock cams...
Mike, do you have any chance of getting your car to idle with no AFC? i remember at the shootout you had some insane number negative number in there to get it to "idle".
#67498, "RE: Help. Failed emissions test # 2, S-AFC question." In response to Reply # 8
Nate, he is on stock cams until he passes emissions. he took them out a month or two ago for this reason.
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
Well it was a good day, stayed home from work. Worked on the car, put the remaining parts of the connectors to bypass the ignition amp. Figured I'd try this. Fire it up, and plug in the datalogger: Good to go. Both MAP and coil codes are gone. Let her run for a while, nothing. So I actually go and pull the instrument cluster and re-install the Check Engine bulb. Throw the intake back on. Fire it up again, let it run. This time MAP and cam sensor code pop up.
Well fark. So I bypass the S-AFC MAP lead. Then clear the codes and fire her up again. Cool again. Then the cam sensor code again.
After some tinkering the only code I have left is the cam sensor.
So either I have yet to find the sweet spot of adjustment with the cam gears and the milled head, or the sensor could actually be bad.
What I did notice is that on the datalogger there is the engine code section up top, and the emissions code section below. The Cam Sensor code only pulls up top. So I should be good. I'm poretty sure the cam sensor code was there before I cleared the initial coded, and it didn't pull on the emissions test. So I think I'm good to go. I just need a day where I can actually drive the car. Potenza's are not exactly snow tires. They don't grab for shit on a layer of snow, I couldn't even get around the block well. Lets pray it finished the emissions cycles and stays clear.
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