LAST EDITED ON 07-Nov-01 AT 04:41 PM (PST)

Hey guys, I was wondering how many of you have trouble with your car the first time it starts in the morning? By this I mean, when I let the car sit for more than about 6-7 hrs and then go and start it, it idles fine for a few seconds then it chokes like it will die, idles rough and then comes back up to normal. Is this common??? If I watch the A/F gauge it reads way lean when the car starts to die, but I know that it needs to warm up before it works properly.



1995 RS
16x8 Momo's
CAI
4-2-1 Headers
2.75 in Tenzo cat-back exhaust
carbon fiber s%^t
2nd gen altezza's
GTS carbon look headlight covers
Apex-I Super AFC
Eiboch lowered
Momo pedals
Indiglo gauges
Autometer gauges/pillar pod
Front, Rear, upper and lower strut braces(neuspeed)
Clarion auto pc with navigation sytem
Clear front corners
Ported throttle bodie(55mm)
Racing stripes (one 2" one 6" side by side down the passenger side)
Custom front grill
"mitsubishi inside" sticker (my favorite)
I got lots more mods but Im tired of typing

Kevin
The old:


The new:

mine sputters a lil in the morning before it warms up sometimes.


"Kaptain Mike"
theblueghost@hotmail.com
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/Kaptainkillgore/index.htm
AIM= "KaptainKillgore" or "KaptainMyke"
1997 RS

If i dont let my car warm up for a few mins, sometimes it would die on me, other times if it was like 30 degrees or less outside i would burn alot of gas-sometimes i would burn about a 1/4 tank in about 3 miles. Now i always let it warm up... havent had those problem since i did.

Evan
97 Eclipse GS
Stamford CT
EvMan2345@aol.com

Evan B
02 Explorer
97 GS- sold
90 GSX-sold
Stamford CT
EvMan2345@aol.com

It could possibly be your Temperature Sensor. Has your thermostat gasket leaked coolant onto the sensors below it? If it has gone bad, the ECU will not send the extra fuel to your cold engine like it should.


Douglas
97 Eclipse GS

-- Mods --
Hiper Industries R1 Cold Air Intake
Arospeed Tunable Bomb Muffler 4.0" Tip
Custom Mandrel Bent 2.5" Cat-back Piping
Blue Silicone Vaccuum Hoses
Blue Engine Wireloom
Custom 2 Piece Mesh Grill

-- In The Mail --
Accel 300plus 8mm Ignition Wires
Autometer Phantom N2O Pressure Gauge
Lo-Tek Triple Gauge Full Pillar
NGK BKR7E-11 Spark Plugs
NOS Nitrous Oxide Kit (Wet)
NOS Bottle Heater
NOS Purge Valve Kit

Next time is starts to die, touch the gas pedal enough to open the throttle some. If the car responds and stays running, then you've probably got an IAC motor problem. The IAC lets enough air past the throttle body to keep the motor idling (and when decelerating). The IAC motor lets a different amount of air past when the car is warm than when it is cold. If the car was warm when you shut it off last, the IAC motor will stay in its position until you start it next. So if the next time you start the car, the engine is cold, the IAC motor has to respond quickly to keep the car running right. If it can't respond quickly enough, your car will stumble and die.


Corbin
'95 ESI-T
HRC + FMIC

Corbin
'97 GSX dressed like a '95 ESi

Do you have this idle problem always? For example, do you have idle trouble when sitting at a stoplight? You can try adjusting the idle screw, which is connected to the throttle body.

Karl
97 GS
http://www.dreamwater.org/eclipsedevo

Karl
97 GS
04 BMW 330i ZHP

If you have to adjust that screw, then like Corbin mentioned, you have an IAC problem.

Our cars shouldn't require an adjustment of that screw. Idle is totally controlled by the ECU. Many other cars such as the 4g63 requires some adjustment of the idle screw.

Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)/Custom FMIC

http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

I think my IAC is on it's way out. Either that, or my throttle linkage needs some adjustment. Mine dies every morning when i start it, but after a restart it's fine.

it's either that, or my injector orings are causing a vaccum leak, or i have some other damn thing causing a vacuum leak, or my throttle body gasket needs to be redone, or... Jesus. I hate it when other people touch my car... even if it is to put my new motor in it..

_____________________________________________
-Dino Yancey
Hello me, it's Me Again!


For Mitsubishi Technical Manuals, INCLUDING the 97-99 electrical and service manuals, click HERE:
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/
No MP3 for YOU!
Somehow, the Proud Owner of not-your.biz

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

How much is an IAC? Do you think that could be causing my rough idle and stalling? It's weird because if i reset the ECU it idles fine for a while, then gets worse and I have to turn out the idle screw again. It only idles bad sometimes, and I thought it was the o2 sensor since it seems to respond slowly or read 0 bars when cruising without the gas pressed down. Can anyone diagnose my problem? It all started after I got my head milled and ported, and my car is auto.

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom - Parts and Performance

________________________________________

2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl

LAST EDITED ON 08-Nov-01 AT 09:57 PM (PST)

First, I would double check to see if your A/F meter is working correctly. That means, more than anything, is your A/F meter grounded at a factory ecu location? ("E" bolt) You know, when I had my A/F meter grounded in a "questionable" place, I had some similar, but not as advanced symptoms as you. I believe having your A/F meter grounded in a highly unstable location may not only affect your A/F readings, but also some driveability issues. Check it out.

Next, I'm not quite sure what the head porting may have done,but I would check to see if there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Your ecu is going to make all the adjustments it needs during throttle and idle according to what it reads from the sensors. First thing to make sure that's going correctly is to check all your sensors and harness wiring. If you are absolutely sure that's alright, then move to the mechanical side of things. Vacuum lines, fuel lines, spark, and the engine.

I find most of the time our cars are pretty bulletproff. Usually, it's always what we fool with that sets things off-kilter. I don't know if you have a FSM, but that has a trouble shooting section for taking your set of symptoms, and giving you a possible set of problems, and a plan of attack.

If your problem is isolated to idle, try and focus in on sensors and associated mechanical items that run that particular operation.

Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)/Custom FMIC

http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

Thanks Jason, I don't have an AFC or anything, and my problem is purely at idle. Well also, if I hold the gas steady at like 1500 rpm, the car is not smooth. It will pull, then slow down, and pull. So it's kinda like it's surging and won't stay steady. Anything above 2000 rpm is fine. I don't know if it's a result of the higher compression or porting? My vacuum lines seem fine. I honestly do not know how to check my other sensors. My A/F guage is grounded on some metal below the cigaratte lighter and radio. Is there anywhere good to ground it inside the car. It used to fluctuate a lot, but now it's always slow, and tends not to move much. And like I said, sometimes it just shows nothing when letting off the throttle (it used to bounce around a lot). But usually at WOT throttle it will read 8 or 9 bars like it should. So shouldn't that mean my A/F gauge should be ok? Thanks for your help....

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom - Parts and Performance

________________________________________

2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl

LAST EDITED ON 08-Nov-01 AT 11:22 PM (PST)

It sounds that as if your A/F meter may be working properly then so long as your WOT reading is somehwat accurate. Have you checked your throttle cable? Is there a lot of slack? Also, your TPS sensor? (checking sensors requires access to some sort of factory manual AND a multimeter)

Do you have access to a datalogger to check your codes? Many times you can have an error code without a check engine light.

Jason
98' Eagle Talon ESi-T
Mitsu Super 16g Turbo(HRC)/Custom FMIC

http://springfielddsm.homestead.com/JasonsPics.html

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

I just went out and drove around, and really studied my air/fuel ratio. Mainly, as I come to a stop, the a/f ratio jumps all the way up, then goes down to only 1 or 2 bars, and stays steady at only 1 or 2 bars for a few seconds, causing the rough idle. If I throw it in neutral, the idle usually improves, and the a/f ratio starts jumping up and down as usual. It seems that only if it is in D or R then it seems that the a/f ratio responds a lot slower. Could this be something other than the o2 sensor then? Is there something else that would influence the a/f ratio or cause the computer to alter the a/f ratio so that it jumps a LOT less. Normally in neutral at idle it will jump up and down a lot. Whereas in Drive, it just seems to move slower and sometimes stays steady at either 2 bars, or full rich. I wish I had access to a datalogger, but the only person I know that has one is Mike at RRE and he is extremely busy...thanks

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom - Parts and Performance

________________________________________

2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl

Man, sounds like some of you guys have some probs with start up. Mine starts up fine in about 1-2 seconds of cranking, and idles nice at 1100 rpms when cold. I would bet your prob is with the IAC, I have replaced this motor on other fuel injected cars with the same symtoms, and it fixed it totally.

Matt's 98 RS 5spd
custom shifter(cut&weld meself)
symborski shift kit
window tint
2700 watt system
15" aluminum Eclipse sub
custom pvc CAI
Dis is jus da beginin!


"you will respect the 14's
or i will kick you in
da NUUUTZZ!!!"

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

My car does kind of act funny while im starting it, it starts after a few seconds but when it is first turning over it seems as if it doesnt want to start and then it would run normally. It didnt start doing this until I changed my light bulbs out (i disconnected the battery) do you think this has anything to do with it. I have changed the spark plugs and it still does it so I dont know whats up.

-Toney
'97 RS 5 Speed
GST exhaust | custom cold air intake | axxis pads | Hurricane_GS shifter | Progress Springs | Rockford Fosgate MP3 Player & Speakers
TDaug@yahoo.com

Toney
'97 RS 5 Speed (totaled)
15.4606@88.42 Mph
96 Toyota Celica GT
88 Toyota Supra NA-T (w/ sports package)
Got Boost?? Hell yeah I-6 turbo powah baby!

from what i have heard on here, is when you disconect your batt, it resets all the info on the comp. It may take a little driving to reset the "data" that the comp uses to control the engine. It has to learn the new settings or something...If after a while of driving it still does it, then somethin else is wrong...

Matt's 98 RS 5spd
custom shifter(cut&weld meself)
symborski shift kit
window tint
2700 watt system
15" aluminum Eclipse sub
custom pvc CAI
Dis is jus da beginin!


"you will respect the 14's
or i will kick you in
da NUUUTZZ!!!"

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Mine is the opposite. Runs perfect once you reset it, but as it "learns" it starts to idle really bad because I have a ported and milled head. I need to figure out if it's the IAC or o2 sensor I need to replace...

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom - Parts and Performance

________________________________________

2004 WRX - WR Blue Pearl
1997 Eclipse GS - Royal Sapphire Pearl

Mine idles funny when I leave it running while putting gas in it. Oh wait, isn't that illegal?

-Tony 98' GS-T

http://www.hometown.aol.com/turboclipz/index.html
AIM: ynot420247 or gotBOOST2g
yeah, "diamonds are forever" unless yur timing belt goes or you get crankwalk...

__________________________________________________________
-Tony <--- NOT asian.
'06 Wicked White EVO IX