#64817, "After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away"
Just got done with rebuild, noticed oil leak between tranny and block, brought to general mechanic that was pretty well respected, he played around with the real main seal, replacing it, and it only had 30 miles on it after the rebuild it was a brand new seal. He took $300 from me and it still leaks.
Next guy, my neighbor down the street who has a self-modded GST and a RS, good mechinic, he said it wasnt the rear seal, but looks like it might be coming between the bedplate and block. He said we didnt put enuff anerobic sealeant when we seal it up, so he put a shit load...next day I get it back, it still leaks a like no other.
It will leak only after I drive it around, but if the car is just sittin on and not going anywhere it wont leak until after 5 mins. When it leaks its a constant blob drip. I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO LOOK AT. HELP 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
#64822, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 0
Could be: Rear Main Bedplate Transmission, around input shaft. are you sure it's oil? Possibly one of the plug in the block dripping down behind teh flexplate. are you sure there's no oil anywhere else on the engine?
#64825, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 1
definately sounds like a rear main seal, do you park on a hill at night or anything? possibly the bed plate but im sorry i can't get my head in there and help you man _________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca
DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home. chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave. DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here
"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "
#64831, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 2
Im sure its oil...i looked and felt myself the freeze plug on the side...it was dry. I dont park on a hill...rear main seal has been messed with 2x, I dont know what to doo.....this sucks the 2nd mechanic said the fly was dry of oil soo... 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
#64833, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 3
so basically they mechanics you got are fucktards and they cant install a rear main seal for the life of them. check your pan gasket, actually clean the engine nice and good, start it up and see where the oil is comin from _________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca
DarkOne> Screw you guys, i'm going home. chrysler kid> and fyi i have never HAD to shave. DR1665> I'm sure your Talon and my Talon are all there needs to be, since we're the only two Talons that really matter around here
"drugs have taught an entire generation of american kids the metric system. "
#64870, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 5 Dec-17-03 02:57 AM by customrsturbo
If I were you I will fisrt, securly jack up the car and clean the engine to remove any oil and dirt. This mean top and bottom. Second, start the car and look for any oil leaks. This is the best way to check it by yourself. Also, I think they sell a dye for oil leaks, maybe I'm wrong but I know the sell it for coolant leaks. Hope you solve your problem!
Stock Rebuild Block, Custom Turbo Kit: Custom 3" Downpipe, TEO4H Turbocharger : 10-12 psi, Starion Intercooler, Custom IC Piping, HKS By-pass, HKS AIC, (4) 330 cc extra injectors, Autometer Gauges.
#64892, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 8
Are you sure it's coming from between the tranny and block, and not dripping down onto the tranny? I second checking your oil pan gasket (I just had to replace mine), and ask if the mechanic remembered to use the little rubber oil ring gasket when he put the block and bedplate together.
Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician
#64897, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 9
I remember when we built the engine we put the o-ring in there...I just replaced the oil pan gasket, its leakin from a higher spot than the oil pan neways. I know its dripping down onto the tranny and dripping off there and its dripping from right off my I-bar. Could it leak from my head bad like that? I have arp studs so what ever mod that head bolt was I dont think I need. I do remember however that when the 2nd mechanic had the tranny out and I was lookin at the rear seal it wasnt all the way in...I think...cuz Ive heard everyone say that it should sit flush with the edge of the block and bedplate...but this was stickin out a tad. 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
#64898, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 9
Are you positive its not leaking from the oil galley plug behind the flexplate?? If it is, oil will not be in/on the clutch/torque converter, because there is(or should be) a metal flashing piece that goes up against the block. so you cant see it easily unless you remove that metal piece. It will mimik a rear main seal leak, esp if you have just had the motor rebuilt. Those suckers like to leak for some reason..I JB welded mine when i assembled my block..I'm not worried about it, it sealed, and can be taken out pretty easily if I have to, plus, the opposite end of the block, around the timing belt, there is another plug in the same galley. Of course to check this, the trans has to be dropped. Check the bedplate to block connection very closely too.
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
#64899, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 11
that lil metal thing your talkin about..was that the lil thing with 8 holes in it that goes first before the fly? 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
#64903, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 13
My shit is leaking oil too. Everytime I get done driving it, I can sit and watch smoke for 10 minutes after I turn it off cause of all the oil on my downpipe.
#64906, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 14
This is a newb question, but when i check my dipstick...there are bubbles on it and it isnt accurate...it always has oil passed the max line, when I know Ive leaked so much. WHY 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 10th Anniversary OZ Edition
#64912, "RE: After 2 different mechanics,still same problem.OIL LEAK will not go away" In response to Reply # 15
Damn Michael, still can't get it fixed? That sucks.
The bedplate-to-block sealant was applied correctly. We used plenty of the Mopar anerobic sealer. Did your "2nd mechanic" take the bedplate off with the engine in the car to apply the sealant? This doesn't sound right. That sealant can't be applied to just the seam of the bedplate-to-block, so if that's what he did it won't help at all.
Have the oil galley plugs been properly inspected for leaks? New galley plugs were installed at Napa before we built the engine, maybe the one behind the flexplate is leaking. Also, freeze plugs would have nothing to do with leaking oil.
The face of the rear main seal should be flush with the block. It will leak if it's in too far or if it sticks out past the block surface. A little bit of black RTV should also be used when replacing the rear seal. Did your "first mechanic" install the seal properly? Did he use RTV behind the rear seal on the bedplate-to-block seam?
You said the "first mechanic" told you the flexplate was dry, but the flexplate wouldn't be dry if the rear main seal leaked that much oil. I don't understand this.
If you're full of oil, and you leak some out... the dipstick SHOULD NOT read full. Are you sure it's engine motor oil? You know, the Mopar tranny fluid you put in there is basically just motor oil with a friction modifier.
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