Anyone have a writeup on how to adjust the clutch pedal? It's engaging sooo close to the floor right now I can't stand it, and it's making it harder to shift cause it's so low I have to press damn hard to free it up.

I got a link to this page but it's for 1g, i haven't looked yet is it the same?
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/njdsm2/clutch.html

CAI | GS-t Muffler | AFX UDP! | And occasionally no PS

also, can someone gimme a writeup on how exactly to bleed the clutch? I was gonna have my friend come over and help me out, but I need to know exactly what I need and what i'm doing

CAI | GS-t Muffler | AFX UDP! | And occasionally no PS

I think that you just need to bleed the clutch.
You need:
1. Simple hand tools
2. A helper
3. Brake fluid
4. Clear glass/jar
5. Rubber hose or vacuum line of appropriate size to fit on bleed valve.

Put a hose that fits on the clutch Slave cylinder bleed valve. Then immerse the other end of the hose in a glass/jar of brake fluid. ( make sure that end of the hose stays IN the fluid ) This is the side you will watch for air bubbles.

Then open up the clutch Master cylinder reservior up on the firewall at the drivers side.
Loosen the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and have someone press the clutch pedal in and release. Have your helper press and release the pedal about 3 times. Then tighten the slave cyl bleed valve.

Check the fluid level in the Master cyl reservior. Make sure that it NEVER goes dry or you will get air in the lines.
REFILL if necessary.

Then repeat the procedures above until there are no air bubbles coming from the end of the hose immersed in brake fluid.

When there are no air bubbles and the clutch pedal feels normal tighten everything up and refill if necessary.
Test drive and see if everything is better.

Hope this helps.

Jonathan
95 Eclipse GS
8 injector
Hahn Stage 3.5
Howell 2.2L Stroker

T O T A L L E D, T H A N K S T O S O M E A S S H A T!!!!!!!!!!!!

What exactly does bleeding the clutch do? How does it help your clutch? I don't know anything about this stuff so I want to get educated. Thanks

Bleeding the clutch basicly gets all of the air out of your hydraulic clutch line. As you probably know a liquid can not be compressed, air however can be. You bleed the clutch to get the air out so that when you are stepping on the pedal you are moving the fluid instead of compressing air. It sounds like this is your problem, because you are compressing the air to a certain point, and then the fluid moves the slave cylinder. Or something like that, I'm sure the more knowledgeable guys will correct me if I'm wrong, but this is how I understand it.

93 Tsi AWD-SAFC I, Apexi N1 turbo back, MBC, K&N w/ hacked can,
Walbro 255, Accel wires, 650cc injectors, stage 3 dsmchip

97 Neon ACR-Stock

Our cars clutch is a hydrolic clutch. Basically its just like a brake system. Have you ever replaced your brake lines and had to bleed your brakes? Its the same thing... If there is a lot of play in the pedal, its probably that your fluid has become low and air got into your lines. You need to get all the air out of the lines. So thats why you bleed them. If you dont know how to bleed even brakes, just ask around, someone you know has to know how to do it. And just follow what he said ^^^^.

What is the appropriate size hose for the bleed valve

CAI | GS-t Muffler | AFX UDP! | And occasionally no PS

Whatever size fits snug.

-Travis

hehe, i don't have any lying around i'll have to run to some place and buy one...but I can't drive my car there cause the clutch is acting all funky .... I guess i'll just guesstimate

CAI | GS-t Muffler | AFX UDP! | And occasionally no PS

I just had this same prob, & my clutch master cylender was DR OOPS Anyway I just added more brake fluid into it, let it sit for about 15min while I could hear it slowly gurgling a bit. Then drove it for a couple of days and it came back around without bleeding it:thumbsup You can probably get away with this if you've not compressed the clutch pedel too many times with the resivor dry. Got lucky & maybe you can too!