I believe it's coming from the oil pump. What type of sealant are we suppose to use on there. i used a high temp rtv (the copper color). i'm 98% sure that's where the leak is.

1995 Eagle Talon Esi
14.4 @ 102MPH
Speedworld Motorplex
Phoenix, Arizona

C'mon guys...

Help us out here. I know when we did my rebuild, someone gave us a list of sealant equivalents.

Paul, I sealed that pump just like you see in fig. CEN0055 on page 30 in the Service manual which you can find thanks to Dino www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/2gnt_420a_overhaul.pdf

The sealant is Loctite 51817 or equivalent. Can someone please give us the equivalent he can pick up at Pep Boys or AutoZone or whatever? Or maybe link us to it?

Thanks a lot everyone!

I believe it is red anaerobic sealent. Some people (neon.org) swear to use the green ones..

-K-

It's not the anaerobic sealant. That's only for the bedplate. I want to say it was a black or gray RTV type silicone. I may have to do some serious searching here. I had just done a couple simple searches, but couldn't find what we needed.

Thanks for taking a stab at it though!

I've used black RTV on them before and haven't had a complain of leaking. There's an o-ring seal back too if I remember right (need coffee...).

Black RTV is oil resistant, not sure about the copper one.



http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

The oil pump to block sealant IS the anerobic type, as specified by the overhaul manual. Its a red jelly type sealant, if you get it at the dealer, or you can find it in a green color at parts stores. As long as it says its an Anerobic sealant, it will work fine. Some have used Black RTV with success, but IMO, follow the sealants used by the factory overhaul manual for trouble free service. And as Michael said, there is a rubber O ring that goes in between the pump and the block. This anerobic sealant is the same stuff that is used on the bedplate to block connection.

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I just rebuilt my motor as well, no leaks, w00t. Used the 51817 gasket maker on the oil pump. It's red.

I just talked to the guys that built my block and he told me to go to satan and get what is called "TORQUE CURE GASKET ELIMINATOR"(green in color). mopar p/t 4773257. That is what he used on my bedplate. My freaking oil is leaking at three different spots right under the oil pump. This should be a quick fix right run4cvr & DR1665!!!

1995 Eagle Talon Esi
14.4 @ 102MPH
Speedworld Motorplex
Phoenix, Arizona

Make sure thay replaced the o-ring and seal it up good.



http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

This is absolutely the correct sealant to use on the block and oil pump, as specified in the service manual:

"TORQUE CURE GASKET ELIMINATOR"(green in color). mopar p/t 4773257

It's available ONLY at Dodge, has to be special ordered, is ass expensive, and even Loctite doesn't carry it- it's a special order item made just for Mopar.

A direct replacement that's more easily available is Loctite 518 (518xx, or 51817 which denotes a 1.7oz bottle I think) I got a giant toothpaste sized tube at a Toyota dealership for $25. Smaller superglue tube sizes are available anywhere for $5-10. It is a red, transparent, sap-like sealant.

I have used Loctite 518 on the five 420a oilpumps I've installed and never had a leak. Make sure you take the tab insert off the crankshaft before removing/installing the oil pump. You just tap it and it falls out. Use something sticky to hold it in place when you reinstall the crank sprocket.

Thanks guys! Paul says he's got the anaerobic. I must have gotten my words mixed up when I read the manual. I just know I used a totally different sealant on my oil pump and it's holding up well. (How fucked am I for just saying that now...)

I'm driving out tonight and we're doing the oil pump change out with the motor in the car. Should be fun as hell imo.

We'll get and post pics too!

This sounds like the type of thing you would want to see in teh TWSB forums, but we can wait until I get pics of what we used to make sure cause there still seems to be a little confusion here.

Thanks!

It's not hard to do it while the motor is in. It's just like a t-belt except you have to drop the oil pan. All in all it's only an extra 2 hours of work over an HG job. It will go well my friend.

I edited to the wiki!

Well, all's well that ends well! We got it done. Turned out the problem was really due to the fact that his oil pump didn't come with the gasket that goes around the crank. What is that thing? The front main seal? We still pulled his oil pan, filter fixture and pump to use the balck RTV on the filter and pan, and then used the anaerobic shiz on the pump. No point in going that far and risking having to drop it again!

If anyone needs a timing belt changed, just fly taloniized out to your place. He's done about 5 in a row on the first try now. Wish I had that kind of luck. I mean, perfect everytime too. :o

Thanks for all your all help Brian (DR1665) and John (run4cvr). You too Kucki!!!...You know we'll be there for you too John, since your next. hahahha!!!

1995 Eagle Talon Esi
14.4 @ 102MPH
Speedworld Motorplex
Phoenix, Arizona

John 96 GS