LAST EDITED ON 05-Nov-01 AT 08:15 PM (PST)

Sorry about the title.

I purchased the EGR block-off from a local Mopar dealer. Just incase: http://www.mopar.com/m_perf_parts_product_part.jsp?categoryID=10019&itemID=622

I removed the EGR valve, and the EGR tube. I put the gasket and block-off plate on the mani. Now, I am unsure of what to do next. I know I need to put the gasket and block-off plate on the head, but after that do I put the EGR valve back on top of the block-off plate and hook up the two hoses to the EGR valve? Or do I leave the EGR valve off altogether (what would I do with the two hoses)? Also, in the picture (link above) there is a round grommet looking thing and a block-off plate to its lower left. What do these two things do? Any help or insight would be appreciated.

One more thing, do I need to put a breather on the PCV valve?






Eric Madden
99 GS

- K&N cone
- 5E plugs
- Magnecore 8.5
- GS-T exhaust
- Some electronic stuff

You don't use all the parts in the Mopar kit.

To try to not get a CEL you could leave the solenoid on and see if it works...

I'm going to take all of it off. Solenoid piping everything, and just cap off the vaccum fitting from the back of the manifold and remove that legnth of vaccuum hose. You will get a CEL from this for sure, but I have one already so I don't care.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

I tried getting around the CEL for the EGR, didn't work. I blocked off the port on the manifold with a plate. I took the EGR pipe and switched it around and cut it off so the EGR dumps to the atmosphere but I still got a CEL. Oh well.




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

LAST EDITED ON 06-Nov-01 AT 05:36 AM (PST)

Michael,

So I don't use that rubber grommet and the block-off plate it goes on. You took (or are taking) off the EGR pipe, EGR valve and the solenoid/transducer? And the vacuum fitting you are speaking of (the one to cap off) is the small hose that runs from the back (left side) of the mani around to the solenoid? Thanks for the help!

After looking on the ASOG board and some Neon boards, I don't think there is a guaranteed way to avoid the CEL light. Maybe if we ever get a aftermarket ECU for our cars it will be a little more lenient with the whole EGR thing





Eric Madden
99 GS

- K&N cone
- 5E plugs
- Magnecore 8.5
- GS-T exhaust
- Some electronic stuff

Haven't removed the EGR equiptment yet. My manifold is off being ported now. When it comes back and I do the install I will remove all EGR equiptment, solenoid, piping... all of it. There shoudl be one plate fo rthe head and one for the manifold, other stuff in the kit is useless... I think it's a universal kit and the other parts fit other set ups.

Yes cap off the fitting on the back of the manifold that the long vaccuum hose ran to.

There is supposedly a way to trick the ECU by soldering a resister inline with the signal back to the ECU. I think the ASOG guys have done it, could be some help there.

If any afttermarket ECU wants a CARB number they pretty much have to leave the EGR in place for it to pass CA emmission restrictions.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

Just a thought on the EGR removal..

in the factory manual, it says one of the functions of the EGR is to recirculate burnt fuel and exhaust fumes back through the combustion chamber to reduce combustion chamber temperatures.

When i went to price the block-off kit at the mopar counter, the guy behind the counter said again, that removing the egr is going to take away that added function of reducing combustion chamber temperatures and promote detonation. He has a 89 Daytona, so hes coming from the old school turbo chrysler school.

Your thoughts?



http://www.asog.net/phantom/

95 Avenger
ATX->MTX Swap
Holset HX40 @ 26 psi

I know this much. When i removed my EGR pipe and blocked off the ports, my EGTs went down a consistent 200*F.\

But don't quote me on that

_____________________________________________
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For Mitsubishi Technical Manuals, INCLUDING the 97-99 electrical and service manuals, click HERE:
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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

It says in the FSM that it reduces temps, but I dont see how if its dumping hot air in the intake... I noticed a drop in my egt temps but not 200F.
--
Brad Rickard
98 GS HRC Stage V (nuff said)

Think about this. . . Why would Mopar, the performance division of Chrysler make a part that would damage the engine? I made a block off plate for mine for about $1. I acually could feel a difference when I did it but it is not very much of a difference.




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

Well don't buy the one for Mopar; I paid almost $60 for mine. My jaw almost hit the ground when they told me how much it was, but I had ordered it and I didn't want to leave them hanging. Anyway, if you are going to do this MAKE YOUR OWN KIT.





Eric Madden
99 GS

- K&N cone
- 5E plugs
- Magnecore 8.5
- GS-T exhaust
- Some electronic stuff

Well, the mopar guy asked me if i planned on running the car on the street when i asked about the EGR Block-Off. So there goes that argument Track cars are set up differently than street cars, where daily-driveabilty doesnt matter. and considering its for the neon which dominates SCCA, i could see that explanation.

Im not arguing against the EGR block-off, i used to be one of the guys telling eveyone to go for it. Now im just trying to see the other side of it.




http://www.asog.net/phantom/

95 Avenger
ATX->MTX Swap
Holset HX40 @ 26 psi

I always heard it was to help warm the engine up by dumping the hot air back in. That way it idles good in the morning when it starts cold.



http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Flame Red SRT-4 GT40,8.5:1 Built Shortblock, Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams, etc etc etc...

The way it is suppose to work is under steady throttle and cruising as well as idle it will open up and dump exhaust gas into the intake. increasing intake air temps so that there is less fuel put in the mix because there is less oxygen molecules. And by reburnign some exhaust gases you reduce NOx an emmission standard in CA. It's primary reason is for emmissions, and supposed fuel economy increase. Which I say goes out the window once you start to gunk up the intake and reduce the efficiency there. And since I don't have to pass CA emmission by blocking mione off my CO and CO2 emmissions should go down.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.