ok i talked to a shop and i told him what i had planned with my motor.

first of all i'm doing a 10.5:1 short block from motofool hopefully. he said that he would mill the head to make sure it was flat raising compression to around 11:1. first of all would it be necessary to mill the head that much? couldn't it be offset by using a thicker headgasket anyways?

he said since i'm going to be running near 11:1 compression i would have to run higher octane then pump gas which i think is BS anyways. is this right?

and finally. he said that if i did this without cams right away that i would burn up the pistons cause air:fuel would be off and i'd run lean. i think this too is BS.

what's up?

http://www.ocaddict.com

thanks beefgg for the sig

I hate to disappoint you, but he's not blowing smoke. My experience with higher comp motors (10+:1) do not take well to HG period. (BTW you would use a thinner HG and not a thicker one to raise comp ratio) Yes you will have to run a higher octane of gas. The cams part is a little tricky. If you retard the timing (way back) you *might* be able to run reg unleaded (89). Pointless if you are rebuilding w/ higher compression to make MORE power and not less. A pair of cams with lift and duration more suited towards a high comp motor would cause less timing issues and yield better results from the build-up. Why not spend the money while the motor is out of the car?

Shit is all apart. Typical...

I would get some crane cams (#16) still streetable but great for high compression. They arent that expensive. And get 93 octane.

I've got the 10.5:1 for >2000 miles and I've never run 93 octane. We can only get 91 here in Phoenix. Other than that, you have to run acorss town (from me anyway) to buy $4/gal 104 octane race gas. One time, when we had that fuel crisis a while back, I had to get 89 octane. No ping. No problems. That's not to say I didn't sewat my balls off over it.

The higher your CR, the more heat is generated in the combustion chamber during normal operation. Put in a lower octane gas with a quicker burn and you're just begging for pre-det.

As of now, my head is still stock. We did nothing more than cover it with a trash bag during the rebuild. No ill effects. FYI.

I would maybe be more concerned with stock injectors and/or stock fuel pressure with that setup, than whether you have cams or not.
IMO if you have the money, you should spend the bucks to get the most out of the higher compression. our stock heads flow pretty well, even though they can benefit a lot from an agressive cam.
if you are worried about detonation, tune a little richer with the highest octane you can get. treat it like a turbo system, have the proper guages to make sure that you stay in the safe zones.

peace
WIKKI


THAT is not f**king THAT!
THIS is f**king THIS!

>ok i talked to a shop and i told him what i had planned with
>my motor.

amish u must have remembered what i said wrong or got confused..
>
>first of all i'm doing a 10.5:1 short block from motofool
>hopefully. he said that he would mill the head to make sure
>it was flat raising compression to around 11:1. first of all
>would it be necessary to mill the head that much? couldn't it
>be offset by using a thicker headgasket anyways?

you dont have to mill it so much that it makes it 11:1, but if your head has been off before and machined it could make it clsoer to 11:1 depending on what condition it is, for instance i just had to ahve a head milled 20 thou to clean it up, and my talons head i had to mill 3 thou



>
>he said since i'm going to be running near 11:1 compression i
>would have to run higher octane then pump gas which i think is
>BS anyways. is this right?

you will want to run teh best fuel u can get plus may be alright id stay away from the lowest octane...taking chances here
i have run 89 octane in my elky which is 11.5:1 and boy did it ping and pop n studder (pinging poping and studdering means its detonating which is VERY bad)


>
>and finally. he said that if i did this without cams right
>away that i would burn up the pistons cause air:fuel would be
>off and i'd run lean. i think this too is BS.

on the cams thing you dont need cams to have it run fine but if your spending so much to get it to be faster they are the only thing stopping ya from adding some crane 18's and gaining a good 20hp or more gain...(with supporting mods)

cams are easy to change later 3-4 hour job,

and on the fuel problem i said that u might want to do some tuning with some type of air fuel controller with cams and high compression...

>
>what's up?

oh btw i got some better pricing on motors next time your on hit me up and i can run through it with ya..

Bill

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.