So this thread requires you to know about the Jeep TB Mod and what is to be accomplished. For all of you who have seen this topic dragged through the Mud over and over again im sorry but I am desperate and I dont know what else to try.


Problem 1 FIXED:
So I have it all put back together and the car idles around 2500 - 3000 RPMS. Easy fix, vacuum leak, I took it apart to find that my fabricated gasket wasn't up to par and that I probably hadn't torqued the bolts enough. I fix this and its Perfect.

Problem 2 FIXED:
After figuring out the Vacuum leak i start it up and go for a drive, and its still idling a little fast 1500RPM, and the gas peddal is weak. So I get out and the butterfly isn't being closed far enough. Thus the spring isn't tight enough. Last night I got a second spring and put it on the TB, and Presto (thats right Presto), the butterfly closes fully, no sticking its #1.

Problem 3:
After sorting out the butterfly problem I put it all back together for the 1000000 time and starts perfect, idles perfect (just under 1K). So im super happy and say to myself "Yeeehaw lets see what its got!" (note: i didnt say this). I start down the road slowly but surely, seems ok, idle is a little erratic (no problem). Then the CEL comes on and the idle jumps to 2000RPMS and the car feels like shit all over again. I take it home and park it idling and it fluxuates between 2000-3000RPMS. phuckin sensors are screwed up i figure. So I unplug the negative terminal on the battery in hopes of resetting the ECU (10 - 15 mins) and start it up again, PERFECT. Untill I drive down the road and the CEL comes on again and the erratic idle starts all over.

Please help me out guys, i have had to get my GF to drive me to work 2 days in a row now and its making me sick! And I dont want to go to a garage and say "I was trying to fit a Jeep TB to my 2.0L, and now it wont work".

you need to pull the codes. it'll most likely be a sensor needs to be replaced.

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

Yeah, you have to pull the code. My guess - It sounds like something is wrong with the IAC.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.901 @ 88.34mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

So here is the deal! After talking with you guys, and some other boards/clubs that I belong to, I determined that my issue was related to my TPS.

Testing the TPS sensor is easy, for anyone having the same symptoms i described.

Tools: DVM (Digital Volt Meter)
1 Stick Pin

Before starting make sure your key is in the ON position, not started but with the accessories on.

Step one: Ground the DVM on the negative terminal of your battery
Step two: push the stick pin into the middle wire comming from your TPS (orange or green i think). This is the Throttle position variable wire (bad name but..) it should read < 1V but very close to it, like 0.99999V.
Step three: While the DVM is still on the middle wire adjust the throttle position manually and the voltage should increase to 4 - 5V on a working TPS.
Step four: Pull the pin out of the wire and into the red wire, this is your constant lead and should read ~5V.


The reason mine was broke was that I cracked the little fins off the inside of the TPS and thus when I turned the throttle shaft the TPS wasn't turning accordingly.

i did the same thing and i think a bunch of other people did as well and i think it is because the butterfly shaft doesnt stick through the t.b far enough and it just goes onto the tip of the fins and eventually strips. when you get a new one just put it on nice and slowly making sure the fins grip then tighting it on as hard as you can.

Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit