Hey guys. I got the motor built up and I just need to install the timing belt and the clutch. tried searching for this with no luck.

I have the belt on (its used but only for about 4000 miles) and the tentioner compressed. The tentioner seems to be working, but should I get a new one to be safe? They are expensive as all hell, and this one was a bitch to compress!

The real question is when aligning the timing marks on the cam sprokets and crank I do not want to bend a valve. So i *think if the crank is 90 digrees off the timing mark on the oil pump then all the pistons are midway and I am safe to turn the cam sprokets, right? So i make sure no valves are open, then turn the crank 90 digrees off the timing mark, then set the cam sproket timing marks togeather and then move the crank to the timing mark and install the T belt and tentioner. Please correct me if I am wrong, I really dont want to mess anything up now that Im this far. thanks!!!

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses

Okay. We did this several times a couple weeks ago, but I got dizzy reading your description. I'm of the mind set that the marks are there to make sure that you don't make any contact. We ended up kinda cheating it a bit by moving one of the cam gears to compensate for the movement we always got when we released the tensioner. Also, I don't think your moving the crank by hand would put enough force on a valve to cause damage unless you were using a 9ft long breaker bar or something. You would know if it was hitting something, imo.

Bump!

Yeah, whenever i do timing belt work, all i do is have the TDC mark on the crank sprocket at the 9 o'clock positon. This way, none of the pistons are at the top of the cylinders. Never rotate the crank with the t-belt not on, and with the cams installed. When ever i have had the cams out, i will always set the crank to that postion, THEN put the cams in. This makes sure you have plenty of valve clearance, and lets you rotate the cams to your hearts content, without doing any damage. If you have just done a timing belt replacement, you should start out with everything lined up at TDC, then remove the old belt. Once the belt is off, rotate the crank back to the 9 oclock postion or no more than half rotation counter clockwise. Then you can have all the cam rotation you want. Then put the cam timing marks to TDC, then move the crank back to TDC, then put the belt on and all that..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

if your worried about the tensioner, take it to mitsu. and they will check it for free. i would suggest replacing the tensioner pulley.
cause the bolt on it tends to break off if you don't.

as for the procedure for the timing check out http://www.ecanfix.com/users/manualcd/gift/dsm/2gnt_420a_overhaul.pdf

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

Sweet, thats exactly what i thought but I wanted to be sure. thanks man.

Yeah I have the overhaul manual printed out at home thanks!

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses