How the f'k do you get that lower rear bolt out of the motor mount bracket connected to the head? I disconnected the front mount and jacked the engine up sky high to get the from lower bolt out, but I can't figure out that back one

The first time i took that out, it took a combination of jacking up the motor and lowering it to get that bolt. I undid both the front and rear mounts to get the room i needed.

John 96 GS

take off tire try going through the fender well...

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.

we found an easy way to do it on my car
we drilled a hole inside the wheel fender
there's a recessed flat spot that looks like it was made for that
we drilled it and the hole was almost in a straight line with the bolt

Alain

>take off tire try going through the fender well...

Umm...I've tried that, the bolt is about 4 inches long, the clearance from the motor to the steel fender wall is about 1 inch.

To get the front one out I had to jackup the engine so it looked like this from the front of the car "\" (I removed the front mount, to do it).

To get the 2 stubborn bolts out(the front most one can be taken out by jacking up the motor), you will have to leave the 2 bolts in the bracket, as you try and maneuver it around to get the bracket out. For the last bolt closest to the firewall, you need to get the head of that bolt in between the 2 steel hardlines on the fender frame rail.You will prob have to bend them up and apart from eachother to do that. This gives you just enough room to get the plate to move around a bit. You will not be able to fully remove the last 2 bolts out of the plate until you get that mount plate out of there. Yeah, its a bitch..

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Gee. All of the sudden I'm glad that's the only mount I have left to fill.

There's a trick to it and once you find it, it's actually easy to remove and install. I spent a few hours trying to get it off and on.

When removing it, you need to move the front plastic cover with it and you may have to either jack up the engine or lower it to remove both.
The real problem I had was putting it back. Once again, you need to play around with the height of the engine and move the front plastic cover when trying to position the bracket.
Place the rear bolt in the bracket first, and the real trick is to tilt the bracket so that bolt will be placed in the area it needs to be in. The bottom bolt is next to be placed in the bracket and needs to be slipped between the vacuum & power steering lines as explained in other responses here.

Play around with just the real bolt and the bracket, without the cover and get the bracket in position. After you can easily do that a few times, then do it along with the plastic cover.
Here's the trick as best I can explain:
Hold the front of the bracket up and the rear with the bolt down and you have to do a twisting & dipping motion with the bracket to put it in place.

With as many people that are having this problem I should go outside and take photos as I take my mount out an post it on the wiki. It's a bitch the first time you get it out, but after that it is amazingly easy. I can have the passenger mount off now in about 10 minutes taking it easy.

Also, there is no reason to bend those steel lines. There is enough of a gap between them that you can pull the bolt out, slowly jack up on the motor and pull the bolt the rest of the way out. I promise, after you did it once it gets 100 times easier to get it out again.

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^^^^ Once you take out the rear bolt, just jack up the engine and the front one comes out easy shmezy.

Wow talk about resurrecting a post from 2003. -_-

Yeah this bolt just magically slides out with the bracket right away for me now.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

I didn't even see the date before I posted. I just saw that it had a new post on it from today.

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