Alright, this is the last post I do about my damn squealing belt problem because I've found the source I believe, but its getting to the point that hondas are laughing at my ass for sounding like a Yugo rolling down the strip and I ain't havin' that much longer.

I popped the hood and put some gunk belt dressing on the A/C / PS belt and that didn't do a damn thing, so I released the tensioner pulley and tightened it back up but heres the thing. The tensioner pulley bolt only goes so far. when I get to a point where the belt is ALMOST tight enough the bolt seems to skip a thread and wont go any farther into its home, it just keeps turning and slipping. WTF!!! I can't take much more of this driving my car under 2K RPMS to avoid the squeal.

What should I do can I just replace the damn bolt or is there another problem? The whole things pretty damn rusty through and through. I read some old posts and they mentioned something about a bracket, is that what I'll be needing? Got to get this bitch tight again!

TIA guys,

My insurance payment is WHAT now?!?

perhaps you could get a smaller belt? go to your local auto parts store and ask them how long the factory belt is, then buy a belt (5-ribbed, like stock) thats an inch or two shorter.

:shhh: i do cocaine :/shhh:

I had the same problem with the tensioner as well... Once you have loosened it as far as you think it can go, try wiggling it with your hand...After I fiddled with it for about 5 minutes I ended up getting it all the way. But I must say it is still a bitch to get that damn belt back on...

95' Eclipse GS
Cold Air Intake
Hi-Flo Cat
Custom Exhaust
BomZ Muffler
4-1 Header
Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley
Bosch 8mm Plug Wires
Bosch Platinum +4 Plugs
Ebay Timing Advance Mod

If you have the right size belt, you may need to adjust the position of the P/S pump.

no, u guys have it wrong...maybe after you try tightening ur belt u should tighten the lock bolt on the tensioner bolt...that way it wont come loose then try tightening the idler pulley.

2003 Acura RSX Type-S
15.042 @ 93.06
Devon
Creator of one of the longest and most controversial posts in 2gnt history...
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=38&topic_id=112462&mesg_id=112462&page=

>no, u guys have it wrong...maybe after you try tightening ur
>belt u should tighten the lock bolt on the tensioner
>bolt...that way it wont come loose then try tightening the
>idler pulley.

Are you guys talking about the pulley right underneath the power-steering pump? Where there are two bolts. One to adjust and other to lock the pulley from not moving? If so, once the pulley is lose, it can only get so tight. What I did to make it tight was,
1. losen your idle pulley all the way and losen your P/S pump. (as you would to take the belt off)
2. then set your idle pulley as tight(far)position as you can, before you do anything to the P/S pump.
3. after getting the idle pulley set, tighten your P/S pump as hard as you can. This should tighten your belt. Use a big screw driver or bar, etc...
4. then you'll notice that the belt is on too tight. from there, you should losen the lock bolt and losen the adjuster bolt from the idle pulley slowly.
5. losen your belt as you desire then lock everything.
atleast that's how I tension my belt. I've always made it tight first, then losen it. Hit me up on e-mail if you need more help...that's if I can help

1995 Eclipse RS

i had a problem with my car sounding like a racoon on crack. and shreading belts like a hooker looking for a chumb. It ended up being my tensioner. i went to satan they charged me 127 for a new pully assembly which is the pully and the bolt it slides on. hope this helps

1997 Dodge Avenger I-4 5-Speed
DreamSpeed Cold Air Intake,AF/X Under Drive Pully, ES Motor Mount Inserts, MSD DIS2, MSD Coil Pack, MSD 8.5mm Wires,Aluminem Flywheel,Spec Stage1 Clutch,Crank Scraper, Quaife LSD,Airmass 4-1 Headers, Test Pipe, Bosal Catback,B&M Short SHifter(50%),Symbroski Shifter Kit, Grounding Kit, Solid Front Motor Mount

Alright, I got the tensioner to move again and tighten the belts but there was no difference no matte rhow tight or how loose I made the belts.

I found half of the noise making process though, the metal brace that runs along the inside lip on the bottom of the front bumper had gotten ripped out on the right hand side from my neighbors driveway, and there were two bolts with washers on them just hanging there rattling making noise at mid range RPMs, so that is gone, now it just squeals still.

Could the power steering pump pulley or AC compressor pulley be doing this? I'm thinking that If I planted a bomb and blew the SOB up, when all the pieces of it landed again, there would be a pulley or something rolling down the hill squeaking still. Is really pissing me off.

Thanks guys

My insurance payment is WHAT now?!?

Alright so I go to CarX to have my new "used" GS-T muffler installed, and I have the guy cut off the heatshields while hes under there and that annoying noise is gone! It wasn't the belts it turns out (weird, I've never heard a rattling heat shield that squeals like a belt)

Its nice not to sound like a Yugo any longer

My insurance payment is WHAT now?!?