hey guys, couldn't find much in a search so i have a couple questions. I also went over the 420a overhaul pdf and I could not find the answer.

Do i need to use loctite or some kind of anaerobic sealer when installing the head studs? I got the arp head studs a few days ago, but I have not opened the package yet. I know i saw the torque specs for the MLS HG that I am using on neons.org, ill just have to find that again.

Next, Do i have to remove the crossmember thing (the arm directly under the motor with the front motor mount attached to it) to get the motor out the top? I have all 4 mounts off and I cannot swing the motor (with trans attached) enuf to get it out of the car. If so how does that arm come off?

Finally got my block from VT yesterday, and I am hoping to get out of work today early to work on the eclipse. I really don't want to goto the *DSM* shootout without my DSM!!! But at this point I don't think its going to happen. And even if it did I wouldnt be running the thing, it would need to break in. bad timeing! thanks guys!

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses

Not sure about the ARP studs.. But, you do have to remove the crossmember to get the motor out. It is fairly simple to remove, there are 2 14mm bolts towards the rear, and 2 17mm bolts on the front.

John 96 GS

I had mine out 3 times and never removed the cross member. What's it getting caught on? It's a tight fit but will come out with just undoing the 4 mounts. Did you take the intake mani off? It gives you a LOT more room.

removing the crossmemeber helped me only because i dropped the motor down first to disconnect flex plate and crankshaft pulley..the motor then pulled up a lot easier.

Dip the threads of the new head studs in clean motor oil.


1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
440's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

yep your not suppose to put anything on the head bolts, but a little motor oil is good to help it get in there.

You can take it off with the crossmember but it gets in the way of stuff but I took mine off no biggie.

http://www.hadesomega.info -car specz and movies 95 Eclipse RS | 76' 280Z | 89' MR2 | 99 Neon | 91 Zephyr
Who sez FF can't drift?

Aren't you supposed to use that MOly-Lube with the ARPs? My rods came with the ARPs and it says for proper torque specs you're supposed to use the moly-lube they send with the bolts. Just curious. I know how much it sucks to have to redo anything rebuild-wise.

IMPORTANT!!!
When you go to separate the tranny from the engine, I don't know if oyu know this or not, but you don't have to go through the starter hole to remove the 4 bolts like the Chiltons says. When you pull the oil pan, you can remove the bottom access plate of the tranny and get them out very easily. Just in case you didn't know. We learned this the hard way...

Cool, thanks guys. Yeah I used the moly-lube that came with the head studs.


I have searched the board and found mixed input on the MLS head gasket install. I assume I need to use the torque specs arp gave me with the head studs. It says due to aluminum expantion torque the head bolts to 65 ft lbs. Also the spec sheet supplied with the MLS HG says to use the mopar hg sealant spray, but i found a few posts about using NO spray. It dosent seem right not to use the sealant. One post the guy said the sealant will crack at high boost or high heat and leak. If you have delt with this please let me know what you did and how it worked out. I am running boost and soon probably a lot of it. Now that i have another car to drive Im gonna get crazy on the eclipse!

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses