Compression Results
Hot engine

Cylinder #1,2,3,4 150,155,150,180

Wet Test *(with cap full of oil)* 202,200,200,224

Sounds like a piston slapping something, Timing belt side,
Real Slow and loud at Idle, gets louder thru 2k and 3k+ RPM's

replaced Rod Bearings Yesterday *Not them*....

gonna check for Bent Valve, Crushed Lifter, and Wrist Pin on the Pistons, Maybe the pistons went...

Talked with Armond from ASOG, he suggested heat may have caused the pistons to go...Because the car is running really hot...and it MAY have been running too lean....

Cam Position Sensor was Broke, and my A/F gauge always was on the Rich side, if not Full Rich, when it Broke, CODE 11, on the Gauge it registered Right in the middle Green at WOT...
Fixed the CPS and starts right up now, and its' back up to rich
but this Knocking Happend when the CPS was broke... Not sure how much influence the CPS has on the Injectors (A/F) though...

So any Ideas' anyone before i rip this head off???
And Is there Anyway to Check the Lifters????

Is the noise still there after u replaced the sensor?

I edited to the wiki!

The car shouldn't have run with a broken cam angle sensor. Some do, but most don't. The cam angle sensor is used to determine injector timing.

If you just replaced the rod bearings and one of them had spun, then all you've done is spun another rod bearing. You can't just replace a damaged bearing with a good one, because by the time you hear it that bearing journal is already damaged and will just destroy another bearing.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

The Car does still make the noise after i replaced the sensor, the sensor made a big difference, though starts right up now, as oppose to before w/o it, it would take a few cranks.

I do however just noticed that sometimes, the Car when going to start
will just whine, sounds like no compression, not turning over at all, u just here zzzzzzzzzzzzz, sounds as if the starter was just spinning by itself..., but then if i turn key back and then back on, it starts right up first try....

Darkone - As Far as changing the bearing, I immediately bought the bearings first day i heard this, thinking it was spun rod, my bearings were fine when i removed them, soo i just replaced them anyway, since I had the new ones and didn't feel like going through the hassle of sending them back.... The car was never low on Oil, and all the bearings were fine, w/ no scores or marks on them...

As far as starting or even running w/o the sensor, After i got the code 11 in the beginning, if i pulled the sensor harness, the car would buck and stall, i checked the CPS harness, and i was getting right readings with a voltmeter
..Soo i plugged back in, after a while, and a few times resetting the ECU, i unplugged it and it made no difference, i checked the CPS on the Head, and it was cracked, and leaking oil, so i unplugged the harness, and left it hang there.
The car would take like 5 cranks to start, but would, hesitate a moment then idle, then run fine... Like i said the A/F meter actually was in the Green with it OFF, that was the first time at WOT, since i bought the A/F gauge, i ever saw it in the middle. But the car wasn't starting, and soo i replaced the CPS. But not before it started doing this.

If it is my Rings, which are better from Howell

Hasings for 79.99
or Total Seal i've heard some things bout the total seal good and bad