When the positive battery terminal is disconneted and the ecu is reset, my car will automatically hesitate in any gear between 0 and 4000 rpms. After 4k rpms, the car runs normally. Will the ecu cause the car to overheat if defective? One more question..if i throw a brick on the accelerator and let the motor blow..will full coverage insurance take care of the car?
i think the ecu takes a while to "re-learn" the car. given that youve got a few mods, the computer is probably quite confused as to why its not acting like a stock car should. give it some time and let it re-learn how to operate your car. it should not, however, cause any overheating (as far as i know?). i used to have an 89 dodge colt and everytime i reset the ecu the car would stall at every stop. it took about 4-5 days for things to get better.
as for your other question...i have considered doing the same thing many times, LOL. im not sure how that would be handled.
The computer will not cause the car to overheat, and as far as the second question depends if it is covered, some companies cover expensive stuff like that, as long as the rebuild doesnt exceed the value of your car.
Now, i understand the fuel loop program on the ecu, after 4k rpms, the ecu doesnt control the air/fuel mixture anymore. what im trying to say is, what will cause the crappy air/fuel mixture between 0 and 4k rpms? Ive changed plugs, wires, coil, iac, tps, fuel pump/filter, fuel filter, gas tank, fpr, injectors, etc. As you can see ive done alot and i still cant figure this one out.
not sure, but if u wanna try another ecu, i have one for sale (i believe it's a 96). just figured i'd let you know. email me if interested (compcentral2003@yahoo.com).
Anyone know anyone who can help me tune this in the Pittsburgh area (Greensburg)?
The ECU can control the fuel after 4k rpms, if you are still in closed-loop(less than 80% throttle). and there is noway it would cause the car to overheat, least not on i can think of. and i dont know of any insurance coverage that covers a blown motor. but if there is, sign me up.
1997 Silver RS Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!) Eagle Rods T3/T4 Turbo Custom FMIC Greddy Exhaust 440's Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)
would removing the egr system cause overheating and hesitating..i have a cel for it? I was just thinking about this tonight. Ive come to the conclusion that its either the cam angle sensor, ecu, or egr system. Any help??
i dont think the egr is causing the overheating, but the cam angle sensor will make it run like crap (make sure it is plugged in) and so will a bad ecu i would try the cam sensor first, they are like 25 bux a autozone, cant hurt
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