Sup guys.
After 7 weeks of struggling, and 3 times of planning to give up. I finally got into this point of deal.
I got my whole engine rebuilt, all good, but I DID PLANNED to save some $$$ on not replacing the headgasket, but now, I regret it, and I will pull the head off once more to replace it... (leak I guess)

Anyway, I won't do the headgasket till I replace the ATX tranny. And here is the deal. I got a used working ATX tranny this weekend for $250 in PA (close to OHIO, drove 6 hrs to there)

I really really want every single bolts and details on this, so I WON"T MESS up anything, so any ideas, info, and steps will be greatly appreciated:

**Before Hand, I unhook the wires, cable and hose to the tranny**
1) loosen both front wheels bolts
2) 2 jacks to jack up the front (behind the front wheels)
3) Take off the front wheels
4) remove the rotors
5) remove the front two suspension
6) remove the lower control arms
7) remove the bottom engine cover (both side)
8) pop out both axles by a bar
9) support the tranny with a jack under a piece of wood
10) unscrew the front engine mount
11) remove the crossmember (by unscrew 4 bolts)
12) remove the bellhousing tiny cover under the engine
13) remove the 4 internal bolts for the Flexplate-TC
14) Support the Engine by a piece of wood at the bottom
15) Unscrew the other 2 engine mount on the Tranny
16) Unscrew the 6 bolts from Tranny To engine (exterior)
17) Slide out the Tranny

Is everything above all good? any detail details?? fine details?
Even a single bolts can FXXK me up...so please, any input will helps!
Thanks alot!
Gilbert.

My day is coming very soon!!!! THANKS EVERYONE

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Yeah, thats basically it, of course everything from the battery and back, like the washer res, and the brake fluid res, all need to be moved aside, as the battery tray and mounting bracket have to come out. You dont need to remove your rotors either, waste of time. Dont forget the trans fluid cooler lines, and shift linkages, and also the starter. Remember to drain the trans fluid too before you take it out, and be sure the trans you got has a new filter in it, and no fluid, until the axles are back in. Its really not that bad of a job, esp after doing things like motor swaps and head gaskets.. Be sure to use at least Blue Loctite on the flexplate to crank bolts, and also on the TC to flexplate bolts.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

>Yeah, thats basically it, of course everything from the
>battery and back, like the washer res, and the brake fluid
>res, all need to be moved aside, as the battery tray and
>mounting bracket have to come out. You dont need to remove
>your rotors either, waste of time. Dont forget the trans fluid
>cooler lines, and shift linkages, and also the starter.
>Remember to drain the trans fluid too before you take it out,
>and be sure the trans you got has a new filter in it, and no
>fluid, until the axles are back in.
Thanks man!!!
You! XtremeRS helped me the MOST, and I will hit you a few calls when I am working on it to ask some questions!
Anyway, I do'nt understand a few things, I will drop the tranny downward and slide it out from the driver front wheel area, correct?

If so, here is three questions:
>>You dont need to remove your rotors either, waste of time.
1) Do I have to remove the lower and upper control arm, rotors, suspension, and obviously the axle?
>>like the washer res, and the brake fluid res, all need to be moved aside
2) If going downward, why do I need to remove the washer res, brake fluid res??? Battery I undestand, but why other things?
3) For the tranny filter, can I put everything back first, THEN I take off the oil pan and change the filter? can I do it that way?

Thanks.
Gil:thumbsup

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

>Anyway, I do'nt understand a few things, I will drop the
>tranny downward and slide it out from the driver front wheel
>area, correct?

Yeah, you will drop it down and pull it out from under the car
>
>If so, here is three questions:
>>>You dont need to remove your rotors either, waste of time.
>1) Do I have to remove the lower and upper control arm,
>rotors, suspension, and obviously the axle?

You need to remove the curved shaped arm that bolts to the frame, but you can leave it on the wheel side. Remove the bolt in the fork, where it meets the wheel also. Then remove the lower lat arm, the one that has the lower ball joint in it. Just take it off the frame side. Now your entire wheel assembly should be able to swing outward, giving you enough room to pop out the axles.

>>>like the washer res, and the brake fluid res, all need to be
>moved aside
>2) If going downward, why do I need to remove the washer res,
>brake fluid res??? Battery I undestand, but why other things?

By having the batt tray and the other res out of the way, you can acess the motor mounts and trans linkages MUCH easier. Trust me.
>3) For the tranny filter, can I put everything back first,
>THEN I take off the oil pan and change the filter? can I do
>it that way?

Sure, no prob doing it like that..
>
>Thanks.
>Gil:thumbsup

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Thanks man.
I will be doing this this weekend.
Some of my neighbors are starting to complain about working on cars in the publie lot....but I am like...SHIT..I better hurry up!!!
ANyway, I will hit you some more qusetions sooner or later!

ANYWay... any other things I have to take extra care of? anything special or easy to break things?

Thanks guys.
Gil:thumbsup

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro