First off, I have to thank Bill (the1bill) again for giving me a hand with the install, and making sure I didn't screw anything up.

I finally recieved the correct Crane #10 cams for my car (I.E. cams for an Eclipse, NOT a Neon!) on thursday, and yesterday the install was finished. So today I have been puttering around with the car (no runs above 5K rpms) to let everything break in and set properly, and will do so for 200 miles, then change the regular dinosaur oil with some good synthetic again (again, for break in purposes).

I know it's probably not necessary to be too strict about that with roller cams, but it doesn't hurt any, and it is a good idea to take the car on a "shakedown" drive or two, to make sure I didn't mess up with the install of anything on the car.

So I can not evaluate the full on performance of them right now, so I'll tell you what I know. And, I have them set at 0 for both cams on the cam gears.

I don't think these cams hurt the bottom end at all. The car really doesn't feel any different at low RPMs. I can put it in 5th gear at 1500 rpms and the car won't lug. It idles fine. In the mid range it seems to have a bit stronger punch, but I haven't driven the thing in a month so I can't seem to tell. I haven't gotten it above 4900 rpms so I have no idea right now about possible improvements in the 1/4 mile.

Actually, (and this might be in part due to the cam gears being set to Zero) the car seems to idle and run a little smoother than before! It purrs like a kitten at idle and when crusing around. Maybe that has to do with the increased valve lift, who knows.

Also, at low RPMs and WOT, the car isn't any louder, but it has a slightly deeper sound.

That's all. I'll try to get a day in at the track before the shootout, but I'm not sure how likely that is. The shotout might be the first day I run with these new cams (and it will be hot out, so I won't be running any record times anyway).

I'll let everyone know more (top end performance, 1/4 mile improvements, ect...) as it occurs. So far so good.

"Tutto fa brodo."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.173 @ 90.70 MPH

And also a 2011 Ralliart

Cool.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.943 @ 86.48mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Good work! We'll see ya at the shootout!

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

awesome todd

03 rally red evo viii - stock
cardomain page
http://www.cardomain.com/id/steve0677

Great news Todd! Looks like a lot the big of NA guys will be representing at shootout.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

AWESOME TODD!! Cant wait to see what you run with them!!

______________________________________________________
2003.5 M3
99 M3
99 GST

nice work todd! shoot me a PM whenever you're heading up to NED, it would be awesome to see you and your car.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Why only the #10's??
But yeah Im in the market for cams too so let us know how it feels in the top end

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

Why only #10s? Heh, you're not the only person who has asked that question, and not the only person who is wondering why.

Well, I've been modding and racing for a while now (as all the other old people on the board know), so if you know how I go about modding my car, I take things slowly and one step at a time.

Also, I am trying to keep my car as streetble (power everywhere int he RPM range, not just top end) and stock looking (and sounding) as possible while attaining my performance goals.

I plan out my modifications in advance. I do research on the different modification, if it works and why a mod makes your car faster, ect... I secelt the one I want or need, put on one mod at a time, race a number of times, see how it improves the car's performance, and move on to the next one.

So, knowing all that, why Crane #10? Because, I take things slowly and carefully. I'm not going to drop a #16 in the car and hope for the best. Also, I want to try and preserve my car's low end performance (because it's a street car) and have more power everywhere, not just on the top end. Yea, I know, you can't have everything, but it doesn't hurt to try

With Crane #10 cams, I think they will give me just enough extra valve lift and cam duration to increase my top end performance without hurting my bottom end. And so far, from what I can tell, I haven't hurt my bottom end with these cams. Also, with my other modifications, I think the Crane #10s will work well with them and make for a very well rounded power curve.

So far, the car runs well, but I have not finished the break in yet, and for a good reason. Apparently I messed up the valve cover gasket, as there are tons of oil leaking out of the back of the valve cover. Hopefully, it will be fixed today.

"Tutto fa brodo."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.173 @ 90.70 MPH

And also a 2011 Ralliart