Tonight I installed my first set of pistons and rods evar. I was nervous as hell, but I used the SEARCH UTILITY and found a thread from almost a year ago (to the day) that answered all my questions and I went for it. (BTW - the pic on the left was taken before they were bolted to the crank. They are not crooked now.)

THANKS 2GNT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here's my question:

After it all went in all purdy, I turned the crank and it turned like butter. I was impressed, but I noticed that at TDC there was a slight difference between the height of piston 1 to piston 4.


When I run my finger across the block to the face of the piston (about where the arrows are) one feels slightly higher than the other. No more than maybe .020", but it is noticeable. I just want to make sure this isn't too much of a problem. I know the headgasket is way thicker than this, but hey... it's making me a little nervous again...

Any input on this would be, as usual, greatly appreciated.

TIA Brian

eh? no one? Donde esta el bump?

When you bolted the rods to the crank you torqued everything evenly right?

__________________________________________
~Chris
03 SRT-4

Ja.
I use John's torques wrench. Rod bolts to 20lb/ft + 1/4 turn (90*) without the torques wrench. I would have thought the crank may have some play in it, but it would bind up a bit if it did, right?

I like big BUMPs and I cannot lie...

Are you using the Eagle rods? If so, then the rod bolts are ARP's, and you DONT use stock torque specs/procedures. You need to use 28 ft lbs or torque on the rod bolts, NO 1/4 turn needed. You also need to use the ARP moly lube on the bolts when torqueing down, to be sure the proper amount of torque is used. I would take off the rod caps, and check both halves of the bearings, to be sure all are ok, and no damage, and are seated properly in the rod, and in the bearing cap. Then if all is ok, use the moly lube, then retorqe down. Its def not normal for there to be a hight difference in the pistons..I would also use some assmebly lube on all bearings in the engine, so initial startup , there is good lubrication until the oil pump primes up and build pressure/flow. I used Clevitte 77 bearing lube on all my internal bearings upon assembly. Also, when the caps are torqued down right, you should be able to move the rod a slight amount side to side on the crank, but it should not move at all up and down on the crank. Turning the crank, there should be no obvious binding at all. There will be resistance, and you will prob have to use a wrench or somethning to turn the crank, but it should turn easily, not a whole lot of effort to turn the crank with all the pistons in.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

yah what he ^^^ said. today we put my je pistons and eagle rods in the block so remove the rod cap and make sure those bearings on each end are put in correct. also make sure there is some lobe on it.. then lobe those arp2000 bolts for the rods a bit. then make sure they are torque to the correct number. also are your piston rings installed correct? i doubt thats a factor.
good luck
Michael
99gs (broken) Motor being built now
HRC Stage 2 8-Injector Setup
Fully Built by July 25,2003 hehe
2GNT Member #32

i agree with what was said above but also u have to remember without doing a line bore check iuts very well possible to ahve 1 pisotn and rod be slightly taller or longer these products are mass produced...

ive have up to .020 before in difference on motors so it may not be the way u put the motor together....


dr call me tomarrow when u get the chance figure out what we can do about this other set of bearings...

Bill

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.

>without doing a line bore check its very well possible to

That's ALIGN BORE biatch! Get it right! Just kidding, how everything been going Bill?

I was gonna check my line, but I got bored so...

Thanks a lot for the continued support guys!

I will undo/redo all the caps tomorrow AM when I get back over there. I didn't get any documentation (that I could find anyway) specifying torque for those so I just used the FSM. Thank God for 2GNT.com!

I used the Moly Lube and still have plenty left. Also, I don't have any Clevite lube for the bearings. We just used some clean Mobil 1 15w50 on the faces of the bearings.

IT'S ALL DOWNHILL FROM HERE FELLAS!!!!!!!

Damn those pics look nice, I wish I had the flo 2 rebuild & turbo I'm jealous, have fun!

Someday,
- J

- J