Just wanted to share the experience with stock udp. I just purchased AFX 30% UDP and took my GS to local performace shop to have it replaced. Guy who worked there worked for Chryler dealership in town and has had numerous encounters with NA pulleys. I dropped it off in the morning and i went back to pick it up after work and to my surprise he was till working on it. Here we go, first of all those pullies are *(*&(*& to pull off. One of the clamps where 3 ton puller had to be attached to broke off, so he couldn't secure it any other way to pull it off. So he drilled 3 holes in sock pulley and used different puller to take it off. Stock pulley finally got off, i was all happy. He had no problems putting AFX on untill he bolted crankshaft bold on and broke the damn thing. So i am driving around with afx pulley with no crankshaft bolt, hopefully it will not cause any troubles, since half of the bolt is still in crankshaft. Do you guys think i will have some issues or it is secured on enough without that bolt? I could already see increase in power, not much, but enough. Ahhh, the price we pay for more HP. Just wanted to get somebodies oppinion if i should go back and have that half of the bolt pulled out and put in another one to secure the pulley more of it should be okay without it????

The AFX UDP relies on an interference fit to hold onto the crankshaft. The natural hole in the UDP is smaller than the shaft it mounts on. You have to expand the hole in the pulley with heat to get it on. The crankshaft bolt doesn't really do anything to keep it on. I still wouldn't want to drive around without a crankshaft bolt (that pulley might work its way off over time). The shop should remove the rest of the bolt and put a new one on for free (its their fault, right). My stock pulley was a beoch to get off too (plus, I did it in my parents garage).


Corbin
'95 ESI-T
HRC + FMIC
http://members.nbci.com/cbehnken/

Corbin
'97 GSX dressed like a '95 ESi

LAST EDITED ON 20-Jul-01 AT 07:15 AM (PST)

LAST EDITED ON 20-Jul-01 AT 07:15 AM (PST)

wow man .. the only problem we had was with the clearance of the udp ( wheel cover was blocking)... but that was solved within minutes with a few twists of the motor mount after that it came off with some persistance but even that was within minutes .. all and all a 30 minutes job from lift to drop.
ps i didnt notice an increase in power tq wise i just noticed the rpms moving a hell of a lot faster


AeM ShoRt RaM iNtaKe
UnoRthadoX RacIng PuLLeY
ApeX-i N1 CaT-BaCK eXaUsT
NeW AuTo TrAnnY
NGK Plat. PluGs
MaGnAcorE WiReS
CLeaR CoRneRs
CuZo SiDe MaRkeRs
MoDDed EuRO TaIls

You raised the car, lowered the engine, removed the factory UDP, installed the AFX, raised the engine, and lowered the car in 30mins? I've heard it takes a hell of a lot longer than that, but I could be wrong.


Coo'
1997 RS
AEM Cold Air Intake
B&M Short Shifter
Trust Shift Knob STOLEN
GReddy Shoulder Pads STOLEN
Trust EVO Exhaust
Front Upper Strut Bar
Rear Upper Strut Bar
H&R Sport Springs
AutoMeter A/F Ratio Gauge
Sony CDX610 ($400 Headunit) STOLEN
'tis it

Does the new pulley make any type of noise at all? I had heard that they squeak somewhat. Also, has it affected your mileage? I'm looking to get an AFX & am just getting info before I buy. Thanks

HeDog



'95 Nstar White GS (AT) w/blue fade

Performance:
Iceman Cold Air Intake
Thermal R&D 3" Turbo Exhaust

Suspension:
Focuz RSII Dual Spring Coilovers
Tokico Blue Struts
Front Upper Strut bar

Exterior:
'99 Front & Rear Bumpers
Chrome/Clear Projectors
Catz Zeta 00 Headlight System
PIAA Platinum Low beams
PIAA 1100x Driving Lights
G2 Altezza Taillights
Clear Corners
3 Piece WW Midwing Spoiler

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=879

HeDog

'95 Eclipse GS/Turboed

HRC Stage II with FMIC.

I noticed more torque than hp. Car seems to respond better when you floor it. Gas mileage seems same. No squaking at all. In fact my factory setup squaked a whole lot in the morning, but now it is fine, and car seems much smoother. Next gotta fix suspension and than save up for some booooooost. All in all i think it was worth the money, and you'll see difference right away.

Damn!!!!! get that bolt removed and replaced!!!

Hell I think getting the stock one off wasthe easiest part... once we had the right puller. I broke two 2 ton pullers and found a 5 ton puller with long arms that took the pulley off in no time at all. It was a little tougher to get the AFX on, heated it and it didn't help that much. Once we got a longer crank bolt we grabbed enough threads and pulled the pulley on. Once we had the right tools we pretty much wne righ through it. It was a matter of figuring out what we really needed.

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads, S-AFC, A/F Meter

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins., EGT

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.