Sup Guys.
After waiting close to 1 week, I got my block from Machine shop and it's all set to go!
And for the past 2 days (sat, Sun) I put my whole engine back into the car.
Below is over 100+ pictures. (more to come)
http://www.rpi.edu/~leeg2/eclipse/Engine%20Rebuild/
Day 7, 8, 9 is the most recent

Ok, here is my problem, and I really need help. (scared if I fucked something and have to take out the engine again)
Remember, this is a 1996 420A ATX (AUTO) car (no mod):
Check out the pictures below!


This is the engine bay without the engine, and the tranny is still attached to it. And if you see that big round rusty thing inside the tranny, (that's the thing I have problem with) It is connected by 4 bolts to the Huge gear on the crankshaft (shown below)


This is a close up. As you see that four bolt hole at this rusty huge thing. (WHAT IS IT ANYWAY?)


This is that HUGE GEAR I mentioned, and if you see, those 4 holes are BOLT to that rusty round thing.



QUESTION!!! HELP!!!
NOW, I have no clue. I put my whole engine back in. and I bolt that 4 bolts from the tranny to the engine block. and the engine is back to it's engine mount and everything is set. All the tranny mount, and etc is connected.
The ONLY THING I STILL NEED TO DO is oil pan, and that 4 bolts for the gear.
NOW, if any of you rebuilt before or something... you guys should konw. (I hope this is not just for ATX) I got everything connected, Alternator, starter, head, valuves, etc and I can still (hard) turn the crank by using a wrench at the crankpulley. But when I am at the bottom of the car, and screw in ONE bolt for that 'HUGE GEAR' into that 'RUSTY ROUND THING' and I try to turn the wrench again to screw in the rest of the 3 screw, I CAN"T anymore. I tried really hard, and even that crank bolts are GOING IN TIGHTER AND TIGHTER and still the crank WON"T turn.
**NOTE** I did put the gear in 'Neutral' ..... SO WHAT'S WRONG..
please guys. Tell me.

I AM REALLY SCARED.
DID I FUCKED that "RUSTY ROUND THING" when I put out my engine block? fucked the interior gear in the tranny when I took it out??? is the gear jammed??? DO I NEED to take out everything and fix it???? PLEASE... I NEED HELP... what' is wrong with it??
If I can't turn the crank, I can't screw in the bolts... then I can't put the oil pan back, then NOTHING will go anywhere!!!

(as I mentioned, the crank is SO TIGHT to a point, I used a 2 feet long wrench and still can't turn it) WHAT SHOULD I DO???????
I am afraid I will break that crank bolt!!!

SIGH..... ANY INPUT will great apprecaited.
Thanks!!!
Gil;(

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I have no idea what that is...torque converter, maybe?...but for the bolts, are they all the same size, length, threads the same?...

...try putting them in finger tight, and then making them tighter in a pattern...like putting on a wheel...until they are within specs...sometimes that helps out a lot...

good luck puttin' it all back together

William 'Tha.Will' McGroarty

~*Roary*~
Sick Skillz

Thanks for your input.
But my problem is this:

First of, all the bolts are the same. (length, diameter..etc)

Second, My problem is, There are only a small section Open at teh bottom of the engine, and that is the only place I can put the bolts in and tighten it.
But my problem is, I can't turn the crank (clockwise) so I can't move the position of the HUGE GEAR and the RUSTY ROUND THING (since I have one bolt tighten) so now they are both kinda bound together. But I have to put the other 3 bolts in also.
And the ONLY WAY is the turn the crank.
Please help.

LOL, but while I was in the shower, I thought of it. Is the the tranny ONLY allow 'counter'clockwise motion??? if so, then maybe that's why I can't turn the crank???
please help!!!

As I said, any input will help!
Thanks for the space.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I might be retarded but I think that the "huge gear" is the fly wheel, and the rusty thing is the torque converter (sp?). Not sure but its what I think.

AEM CAI,APEXi N1,OBX header, 18" Exel Ennio's,NX wet kit with GENX-2 package...Dyno sheets coming soon
Thanks to Malenko for the sig...

its not a flywheel, its a flexplate and yeah the "rusty round thing" is a torque converter

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

THanks guys.. now at least I konw what I am dealing with here.
But My main questions still haven't answered yet.

Does any ATX people here that has rebuilt their engine?
Does that torgue convert suppose to be able to turn?
How come once I connect the torque convert in to the flywheel, I can't turn the crank anymore? (I only got one bolt in) still need 3 more...... HELP!

THanks guys for your input.
Gil

I AM SO CLOSE TO COMPLETE, but now it seems SO FAR FROM IT....
(STUPID FLY WHEEL AND TORQUE CONVERTOR!)

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

run4cvr, cota and I spent a couple hours trying to separate an auto tranny from our 420A with a pry bar before we got out the Chilton's to find that those 4 bolts are supposed to loosened through the STARTER "port." Where the starter mounts up and engages teh flywheel or whatever, you have to turn it and loosen, turn it and loosen, and so on. I imagine you reverse teh steps to reinstall. Good luck mang, we're right behind you!

SUp man.
I kinda don't understand...
I ma putting everything back now... not taking it apart.
But thanks for the input still. But my MAIN PROBLEM IS,
I CAN"T TURN THE CRANK, that means I cant turn the flywheel either...so what is wrong? Is it suppose to be STUCK?

THANKS AGAIN>
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Help guys... I am just way too worried.
Is it just me? or just that I spent so much time and $$$ on it that I can't fuck it up.... so worried yo.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I had the same problem, exactly. Turns out I didn't have the torque converter installed all the way. Turn the converter clockwise as you push it inward... you will feel it "click back" into place. It must be all the way in and it shouldn't wobble any. After you do that your crankshaft will turn.

Thanks dougie.... SHIT man.
But I returned my engine hoist
and I got my engien bolt in to my tranny and the engine mount is back.
Do I have to get an engine hoist again??? to lift up the whole engine then I push the torque convert in???
Please give me some suggestion!!!
Gil.....

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Put a jack under the engine and pull it away from the tranny. It's tedious and time-consuming but you gotta do it. Good Luck!

Hell if your gonna do all that I say you chunk the torque convertor and get a high stall one.

1998 Eclipse GST

Jeez.

The bolt holes are OFFSET!! You can only bolt it on ONE WAY. Install one bolt, turn it, see if the next one will line up. No? Take that bolt out, rotate the motor, try the next hole. Repeat until you get all four of them in.MTX is the same way - four bolts, one of them offset.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

>Jeez.
>
>The bolt holes are OFFSET!! You can only bolt it on ONE WAY.
>Install one bolt, turn it, see if the next one will line up.
>No? Take that bolt out, rotate the motor, try the next hole.
>Repeat until you get all four of them in.MTX is the same way -
>four bolts, one of them offset.

ditto, took the words right out of mmy mouth.

DWAYNE H

www.gottude.com
Red/Black/Silver 01 GSXR 750
Lots of Apexi components...

You didn't read the post corectly... he's not trying to line up the bolts... that isn't the problem! The problem is that he can't turn the crank when the TC is bolted to the drive plate. That's because the TC isn't in all the way!

OK, this is the deal here....
2 weeks ago when I lift out the engine,
I do'nt know about that 4 bolts connecting the torque converter and the gear. so I keep lifting the engine up and try to make it as a 45 degree angle and so on to try to take it out..
And that torque converter is pulled and draged with the engine at that time.

But after an hour, I realize that 4 bolts and took it out.

Today, when I go out, as I talked about the problem above, the crank WON"T turn after I bolt the gear to the torque converter, so there MUST be something STUCK in the tranny.

But HERE IS THE FUNNY AND FUCKED UP THING!!!!
Today, after I unbolt that bolt from the gear to the torque converter, I put the car in Park, N, D, 2, L... all the gear. and I can turn the wheel freely. Well, at Park, D, 2, and L, the tranny will move a little when I turn the wheel, and a TICKLE sound but after that tick sound, I can turn the wheel...

TELL ME GUYS, DID I FUCKED UP THE TRANNY when I put that engine out 2 weeks ago?
Or is it just the torque converter is off???

PLEASE JUST TELL ME, so I wo'nt feel like shit right now.
I have to rent the engine hoist again, undo everything I did, and do everything again....I FEEL LIKE SHIT .... please, tell me some info that can make me feel better.

THANKS GUYS.
ANY INPUT WILL GREATLY APPRECAITED.
GILBERT

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Dude... you should be able to SEE if the TC isn't in all the way. It should be inset into the bell housing about 1" and shouldn't wobble at all. Put your engine on a jack and pull it away from the tranny.

Ok, this may sound dumb, but if the TC wasnt in all the way, how can the tranny even bolt up to the block?

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

>Ok, this may sound dumb, but if the TC wasnt in all the way,
>how can the tranny even bolt up to the block?

Thats exactly what I was thinking. I would think that its in there cause you've got the block & bellhousing bolted together tightly...isn't that right?

EDIT: One thing you may want to do is double check the shifter linkage at the transmission. Maybe you disconnected it when pulling the motor? Maybe it came out by accident?


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.943 @ 86.48mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

is the trans all the way bolted to the blcok? You should be able to turn the TC by itself when its not bolted to the engine. Leave the 4 bolts out, and try and turn the TC. Be sure is in N. It should turn freely. If not, then either somehtings up with the trans, or the shiter linkage somewhere.. The way you described how you forgot to take out the 4 bolts when you lifted the motor..well that wasnt good, becasue then you put ALOT of stress and tension on the input shaft of the trans. Of course this is just a guess, but you never know...

Try dougie's advice first though, so dont freak out yet!

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Yes the engine will bolt to the tranny even if the TC isn't in all the way... not easily, but it will completely bolt flush, the crank won't turn if you do it though.

Also, the TC will turn even if the tranny is in park. Remember, the TC turns at the same RPM as the engine, at ALL times... no matter what gear you're in.

Sup guys... OK.. From what Dougie is saying, He seems like he did everything I did before, and he konws what's going on.

Yes, I got everything Put back in, I just can't turn the crank.
So I got the tranny completely TIGHT bolt to the engine.

BUT DOUGIE... LET ME ASK YOU and ALL OTHERS THIS QUESTION:
I put the gear (the stick in the car) into all gears includes park, N, R, D, 2, L.. .and I can STILL TURN THE WHEEL (the actually rim with tires)... I can turn it forward and backward.

WHY IS THAT??? I mean, shouldn't the wheel locks when in PARK atleast?

Is it because of the Torque Converter not in all the way like Dougie said it to be???
Please give me advise on that part.

Gil.

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

BTW GUYS... THANKS ALOT for all your inputs..
I really really apprecaited them.

But as I said, I HAVE 2 main problems (questions)
1) Crank WON"T turn after bolt to TC (answered by Dougie)
2) Both front wheels are free (turnable) in any gear (Park, N, R, D, 2, L) Why is that? related to the TC?

THANKS GUYS!
Gil..

P.S. XtremeRS... man you been helping me through out the whole rebuild, from timing belt, to bracket, ... from crank pulley, to bedplate, ..and now ... I AM || THIS CLOSE to complete it... ... HOW CAN I CALM DOWN.... I AM SO PISSED AND STRESSED right now...I keep blaming myself..WHY AM I SO FUCKING STUPID.. why don't I check it first...

ANYWAY, please consider the above 2 qusetions... I really need an answer for them. THANKS GUYS!!!
Gil:thumbsup

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I think the t.c. should be taken out and put back in. Put some tranny fluid around the imput shaft and reseat it till it clicks. Keep the starter out and install the bolts threw the starter hole. Use a pry bar to turn the flex plate just be careful not to let the bar slip on the teeth. Using the flex plate to turn it will be easier than using the bolt at the crank. Take your time and make sure every thing is lind up befor you put the starter back in. Oh also use loc tight on the 4 flex plate bolts. Good Luck!

TeamLSR member @ landspeedracing.com

Thanks again..
what is loc tight?
Thanks.
Gil


Do I need to use it on the fly wheel center bolts? (the 12 bolts?)
The ones that bolt to the crank shaft.
Thanks. again.
GIl

I really want the second question be answered...so worried the tranny is FUCKED UP...
THanks agian.

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

loc tite is a thread sealer you put on your bolts so the stay tight. You can also use it on bolts that go in the water jacket to keep them from leaking. I'll go back and read your second q. and try and reply.

TeamLSR member @ landspeedracing.com

>
>I really want the second question be answered...so worried the
>tranny is FUCKED UP...
>THanks agian.


When the car is up in the air, you will always be able to turn the wheels freely.

When its in N, the wheels are "disconnected", when its in any drive gears, the wheels will turn the same way together, when its in Park, the wheels will still turn freely, but when you turn one wheel clockwise, the other wheel will turn counter-clockwise

so based on the wheels just turning freely, thats not cause for concern yet

95 Avenger
ATX->MTX Swap
Holset HX40 @ 26 psi

ok...this applies for all cars(autos)...so u can turn the wheels freely right?but not the crank or flexplate? try to pull the tranny out pull the converter out...set it on a table or i guess the ground will do...fill the converter with the same tranny fluid that u use in the tranny...put a coat of tranny fluid on the input shaft...put the converter on the input shaft...turn it clockwise untill u here it click or feel it "pop" in place....after u hear or feel it "pop" in place turn it a few more times to make sure it is on all the way...the put it back in the car...get some long bolts(make sure they are the same size as the stock bell housing bolts only longer)then use them to guide the tranny up to the block...start a couple of stock bell housing bolts and the get the flexplate and converter lined up...get the blot and bell housing as close as u can(might not wanna tighten them all the way up cas u might need to back it off a lil bit...get a bolt started in the converter,but dont tighten it up all the way...turn the crank or flexplate to line the next bolt up...get all of them in and the tighten everything up and the try to turn the wheels freely with it in park...i'll almost put money on it that u cant

hope this helps man...or boy j/p just dont get mad and start beatin shit with a sledge hammer and u'll get it man...

if this dont work let me know were ya live and i'll see how far away u are and i might come put it together for ya for a small fee its all about the money...naw...just mainly to cover gas bill

<-Eclipse Racer->
cai,p&p tb,msd coil pack and 8.5mm wires,plat+4 plugs,header,high flow cat,dual dtm styl muffler,final gear mod,and shift kit

>input shaft...turn it clockwise untill u here it click or feel
>it "pop" in place....after u hear or feel it "pop" in place
>turn it a few more times to make sure it is on all the

It will click back 3 times... then it should be on completely. Just make sure it's inset about an inch and that there is no wobble. Good luck to you! Calm down, it'll be okay... this is what working on cars is all about.

OK GUYS, THANKS FOR ALL THE INPUT. First of, I HAVE TO GET IT DONE BY THIS WEEKEND. AS I SAID BEFORE, I was doing it in my apartment parking lot, and people DON't LIKE IT, and they start to complain, and I promised I will get it done last weekend, but now, FUCK, I said this week will be the last... so I HAVE TO!!!

Anyway, for the reply on RyaN95i4, Gregstoofast, & dougie2 shown above, I have TONS of questions about them, please explain in detail:

----------------------------------------------------------------
RyaN95i4:
When the car is up in the air, you will always be able to turn the wheels freely. When its in N, the wheels are "disconnected", when its in any drive gears, the wheels will turn the same way together, when its in Park, the wheels will still turn freely, but when you turn one wheel clockwise, the other wheel will turn counter-clockwise
----------------------------------------------------------------
OK, so are you saying(in good working condition), when I have both front wheels lifted up to the air, in 'PARK', both wheel can turn freely but in opposite direction, in 'R,D,2,L' I can turn both wheels freely also but both wheels goes same direction, and when I put into 'N' I can turn each individual wheel and the other stay still?
AM I CORRECT above?


----------------------------------------------------------------
Gregstoofast:
ok...this applies for all cars(autos)...so u can turn the wheels freely right?but not the crank or flexplate? try to pull the tranny out pull the converter out...set it on a table or i guess the ground will do...fill the converter with the same tranny fluid that u use in the tranny...put a coat of tranny fluid on the input shaft...put the converter on the input shaft...turn it clockwise untill u here it click or feel it "pop" in place....after u hear or feel it "pop" in place turn it a few more times to make sure it is on all the way...the put it back in the car...get some long bolts(make sure they are the same size as the stock bell housing bolts only longer)then use them to guide the tranny up to the block...start a couple of stock bell housing bolts and the get the flexplate and converter lined up...get the blot and bell housing as close as u can(might not wanna tighten them all the way up cas u might need to back it off a lil bit...get a bolt started in the converter,but dont tighten it up all the way...turn the crank or flexplate to line the next bolt up...get all of them in and the tighten everything up and the try to turn the wheels freely with it in park...i'll almost put money on it that u cant
----------------------------------------------------------------
Gregstoofast, I really have lots of question about your input, hold on to me now ok:
1) Yes, I can't turn the crank when flexplate is bolt to TC.
2) I decided to re-take out my whole engine, but 99% DON"T WANT to remove tranny, can I reposition the TC when Tranny in car?
3) What is the Input Shaft? (please, detail) I really don't want to fuck up anymore this weekend!!!
4) You saying I should bolt the flexplate into the TC first before I tighten or bolt in the tranny bolts to the block?
5) After I got the engine out, Is the TC lose? I mean can I just pull it out without unscrew anything?
6) when I pull out the TC, will anything inside far off? gears or spring? I mean is it simple as 1,2,3 that I pull the TC out, and put tranny fluid on, and just put it back? or things will get messed up after I take out TC????
7) at the end, you said when I put in "PARK", I won't be able to turn the wheel freely, you mean after I fixed the TC? or in normal condition for all AUTO? or just that my tranny is fucked right now so it can turn????


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dougie2:
>input shaft...turn it clockwise untill u here it click or feel
>it "pop" in place....after u hear or feel it "pop" in place
>turn it a few more times to make sure it is on all the

It will click back 3 times... then it should be on completely. Just make sure it's inset about an inch and that there is no wobble. Good luck to you! Calm down, it'll be okay... this is what working on cars is all about.
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Sup dougie2, Thanks for all your input!
Well, As I typed all the qusetions above for Gregstoofast, they are actually some for you too, like what is the input shaft?
The main qusetions for your input is:
1) What you mean by "make sure it's inset about an inch"?? what is inset?... no clue... please explain in detail. THX
2) what you guys all saying about "wobble", how? what? which part? up down? in out?


WELL guys...thanks,
please explain about all you guys said before, I listed all my confusion about all your input.
please explain them clearly!
I greatly appreciated them!
Thanks, I just hope you guys won't feel annoyed or feel stupid of me, coz I asked soo many questions and in detail, coz I REALLY can't fuck up again this weekend, (I CAN"T AFFORD TO) coz I will get kicked out of the lot, and I will have no place to park my car if it still don't move this weekend!
THANKS ALL!
Gil
...worried...

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

It's actually pretty easy, here's all you need to do bro...

1. Disconect the engine from the tranny
2. Move the engine toward the passenger side enough to get your hand on the torque converter
3. Start turning the torque converter clockwise until it fully clicks back into place (you'll KNOW when this has happened)
4. Verify that there is no side-to-side wobble with the torque converter and that it sits back inside the bellhousing approximately 1 inch. (I can see from your pic that it's barely inside the bellhousing)
5. Bolt everything back up and turn the crank

That's it dude... very simple! The hardest part will be getting the engine out of the way to get your hands on the torque converter. If you're good, you won't need to completely pull the engine and you should be able to support it with a jack.

Good luck!

Wow.
Don't give up do0d! You're almost there! Just take a deep breath, try not to hyperventilate, and THANK GOD FOR 2GNT! :o

THanks bro
well, what you said, is it going to fix everything I listed above?
The gear thing, the wheel freely turns, the input shaft?(no clue what it is), tranny fluid on it, and da da da above?

Thanks man.
Gil.

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Yes... go do it already!!!

THANKS MAN.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro