Sup guys..I took alot of pictures... and they are all available at this location:
http://www.rpi.edu/~leeg2/eclipse/Engine%20Rebuild/
I will be posting alot more as soon as I get teh damn bedplate off.
Anyway, I NEED HELP. As you see below.. from all the pictures. please give me input on what I should do.

I am planning on CHEAP, ALL STOCK, NEVER race with this engine (only my g/f's car) and never do any mod ok! CHEAP!!!

Anyway, I want to get all new main bearing, all new rod bearing, resurface the crank (see below if you guys think I can, clean and hone the block, and thinking about if I should get new rings and change the spun bearing rod.. (see below pictures and tel me what you all think ok!!! THANK)

Pictures starts below!! please wait for them to load!
(All explanation is below each picture)
---------------------------------------------------------------

The Engine Block with all rods and pistons out, all bedplate bolts off, and all oilpump screws off but can't get the gear off


Clearly, the right most crank journal is the spun bearing one. It's fucked up!! please tell me if it's fixable. (most closeup below)


This is the left most side journal, (the GOOD one) and you see the both side of the journal is clearly visible and smooth.


The right most journal (BAD ONE), as you see, it's been grind down alot..I think about .5mm to 1mm. as you guys see from the picture...can I still use this crank? (by resurface??)


I hate myself, I try to use a 3-arm 2ton puller and take out the gear, but I FUCKED UP. (is it made of stone material?) IT cracked... I chipped off a piece, and now, ... CAN I STILL USE IT? it's a small piece, will it hurt the timing belt if I smooth out the edge of the chip off place??? (please help)
As I said, all screw are OFF, and I will take off the gear today, but I CAN"T Take off teh bedplate...WHY???? the oil pump is LOOSE COMPLETELY... help!!


All four pistons, the first one is the SPUN BEARING rod. As you all see, I took off the bearing, from visual, the spun bearing part of the bearing is only like .1-.4mm thinner then the other good bearing...buthow come the crank journal got grind more??? can I still use that bad rod??? crank ???? (more close up below)


This is teh FUCKED UP rod, I DON"T know if it's fucked, but it's the spun bearing rod, as you all see this rod is BLACK!!! but the bearing is still there, so can I still use this rod as it is? thanks.


For comparsing, this is the good rod.

THANKS EVERYONE...
My main concern now is to Get the stupid bedplate off.. .I CAN"T GETIT OFF>...ay ideas...any help ?? please help!!!!

BTW "The1Bill"... I really need those rods...please ship them to me asap!!!! ..... I will kiss your dog if you have one.... lol. THanks. I greatly apprecaite your help and contribute your rod to help me...and all others who helped me along the way..

Gil..

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I see bolts still in the oil pump... I hope you pull those out when you try to remove the bedplate. I still say get the oil pump off and then work on the bedplate it is going to have to come off to bring the crank to the machine shop anyway. Just get the right pulley (listed in your Chiltons) and get that thing off.

Only your machine shop can tell you if the crank is salvageable by measuring it and checking the damage. They make oversized bearing to make up the gap between rod and crank in this case.

I can't see any damage to the rod on that bearing should be fine, but I can't see it in person if you are worried ask the machine shop...

Clean it all up throw some new rings around those pistons and away you go. (with all the other bearings and gaskets/seals etc of course).



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Thank man. What you think about the crank gear? the one that is connected to the timing belt.
I Chipped off a small piece from it. (Check the pic above)
Can I still use it?

ALso, seriously, I can't take off the bedplate..what the F**K!!!

Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I answered that in your other thread. I wouldn't, you don't want to start shreading the timing belt after going through all this to rebuild and have to yank it apart to fit the head because you broke a timing belt. A new one from Bob Kise should be in the $15 range I think. Mention 2GNt for a discount, we've given you contact info before.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

HI, just incase..I will post the same message here also.

OK, I use a wretch at the end of the crank... and I turn it... in a full 360 degree turn..I can say 180 of them is smooth..and then I need to use some power at the other 180...then the 180 coming up is effortless... then again...and so on.
is that a good sign??

Will have have to get new block and bedplate if the main bearing really got FUCKED UP????
do i need a how new crank???
Please...don't scare me here....I don't know what to do now...
Gil.

THank... please help me out here!!!
If it's really the main bearing is FUCKED...what so I do to take off the bedplate??? any replace I have to do extra???
help

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Your mains will be fine. The rod bearings take most of the load in the bottom end.

Take ALL the bolts out of the oil pump, and break the seal from the oilpump to the block. The bedplate is DOWLED IN to the block, so you're going to have to go after it with a deadblow hammer to get it up and over those dowl pins. It's not like you can just take out all the bolts and have it turn loose. it's on there petty damn tight.

Whack it with a deadblow hammmer or rubber mallet until it turns loose, AFTER you've made sure you have ALL the bolts out of the oilpump.

Good luck.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

>Thank man. What you think about the crank gear? the one that
>is connected to the timing belt.
>I Chipped off a small piece from it. (Check the pic above)
>Can I still use it?

It's only $16-20 to replace it. I had trouble removing the crank sprocket too. I couldn't find bolts long enough to use the harmonic puller with the puller bolt in it. So, I took the puller bolt out, screwed the harmonic puller into the sprocket, and put the long crank bolt through the center of the puller (it should be smaller than the hole in the puller). I then used the 3-jaw puller to pull the harmonic puller.

I just copied this from your other post..didnt see this thread..



The crank, having no pistons/rods attached to it, and no oil pump on, it should turn by hand. It wont turn by itself if you try to quickly "spin" it and let go, but it should turn easily by hand, with slight resistance.It should feel as if you are spinning it in oil(no binding or scraping,ect..there should still be oil residue in the main bearings) If you have to use a wrench on it to turn it part of the way, then that is NOT normal. It should NOT bind or anything in its full revolution. I'm willing to bet you have main bearing damage. But like Michael has said, it most likely is not enough to keep the bedplate from coming off..but you never know i guess. All i know is that on my old block(about 80,000 miles), i just tapped each end of the bedplate on each side a few times, and that broke the seal. From there very light tapping evenly around the bedplate fully broke it free. No prying, or hard hammering at all. I have heard some people have difficulty getting that bedplate apart, so dont know there..something with the main bearings just doesnt sound right. I highly suggest a good reputable machine shop look at everything once its all apart, to see what you need. Good luck

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Guys.. I GAVE UP...
I konw this sound horrible.but yes I am ... I GAVE UP.
I completely feel no hope..and I just don't want to be in this shit anymore.
I will just junk the fucking car..and that's it...
NO MORE.
I am sick of it.
I GOT EVERYTHING OFF..and STILL CAN"T get the bedplate??

DOES GOD REALLY have to play with me like this???? takes me 4 days....and just can't take of a piece of metal that is only stick on by GLUE???? FUCK HIM and FUCK EVERYTHING OK.
I FUCKING PISS..and I DO"NT CARE ANYMORE.

JUST FUCK IT>
GI <-- not thumb..but FUCKING MIDDLE FINGER!!

Hey man, dont give up! I know what you mean, these 420a's will test your will-power hehe.

Here's what you do. You most likely are still missing the one bolt that is right next to the oil filter. You usually cannot get that off until you screw off the oil filter section. Unscrew that, take off any remaining bolts, and like dino said - use a hammer and tap on the side and on the top of the bedplate. It should loosen it up from the dowels and it should be easy for you to take it off.

good luck.
_________________
Vinnie Lima
vinnie.lima@jvllogistics.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

I do'nt want to be rude...and don't get piss by me ok.
(Coz I am really fucked up right now)
I fucking HAMMER that shit..and it still don't fall off.
And I just CAN"T FUCKING count...then I COUNT 20 bolts taken off from th eblock.
I CAN LIFT UP THE WHOLE ENGINE BLOCK off the ground by just holding the bedplate..and HIT it with the hammer inthe air..and the FUCKING block itself still do'nt fall off from the bedplate...FUCK It.. it's like COMPETELY STUCK TO IT....what the fuck...
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

After calming myself down and thought for 3 hours..
I am thinking tomroorw, I will bring the WHOLE block to the machine shop and hvae them CLEAN (boil in acid) the whole block, with the oil pump, crank, and bedplate... So I hope that will help the bedplate to comes off..
YOu think that will help???

Thanks guys..
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

I think you need a bigger hammer.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/