Hi guys.
I spent 3 hours today... to trying to disassemble the Engine block. ..but I CAN"T.

1) I cannot take off the bedplate
2) I don't konw how to take off the crank gear (for timing belt)

I read the cliton book and it doesn't help.
I removed ALL bolts that are on the bedplate, doesn't help.
I removed all the oil pump screws, doesn't help.
I removed the water pumpe also.

It seems like the bedplate is STUCK or have some hidden screws otherwise.
I use a bar to try to make it come off from the block..but I can't.
PLEASE... any of you..... alot of you rebuilt engine before...HELP ME HERE... PLEASE!!!!

Thank you very much.. I apprecaite the help!
Gilbertx(
Why can't something go smooth for once..... 3 damn hours...

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

>>
>1) I cannot take off the bedplate
>2) I don't konw how to take off the crank gear (for timing
>belt)

There are some bolts around the perimeter of the bedplate, i believe 10 MM, and then the bolts that are in the center, by the crank main bearings. I believe there are 10 of those. You need to take off the oil filter adapter also. Its a threaded pipe, with that big hex nut on it. Just take a wrench and loosen the hex nut, which will loosen the whole pipe thread fitting. The pipe thread fitting is what the oil filter screws onto. Now, there will be an O ring between the bedplate and the block, right at this location, so BE SURE TO PUT that O ring back IN! The beplate is held on with some anerobic sealant, so some light tapping with a mallet should dislogde it. If its not commming off, then you missed a bolt somewhere. The oil pump housing should be off the motor also,as part of this is sealed to the bedplate also. You need a harmonic balancer puller to remove the crank t-belt gear. You will also prob need to get 3 proper sized bolts that fit the threaded holes on the crank gear. Get at least 3" or 4" long bolts!!! Trust me on this one.. I cant remember the bolt size or thread pitch, but i can find out..
>
>I read the cliton book and it doesn't help.
>I removed ALL bolts that are on the bedplate, doesn't help.
>I removed all the oil pump screws, doesn't help.
>I removed the water pumpe also.
>
>It seems like the bedplate is STUCK or have some hidden screws
>otherwise.
>I use a bar to try to make it come off from the block..but I
>can't.
>PLEASE... any of you..... alot of you rebuilt engine
>before...HELP ME HERE... PLEASE!!!!
>
Just be sure all bedplate bolts are out, oil filter adapter is out, and oil pump is off. Tap on the beplate from the upper half on down, to loosen the plate. It should pop off without that much effort.

Check out this link to the whole 420A rebuild specs and procedures. They give diagrams to all bolts and whatnot.

http://www.ecanfix.com/users/manualcd/gift/dsm/2gnt_420a_overhaul.pdf

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Ok Edit: I jsut checked my old spare block sittin in my garage, and there are (10) 10MM bolts, and (10) main bearing bolts on the bedplate. Be sure you got them all. You need to remove the oil pump housing. You DONT have to remove the oil filter adapter though. Be SURE you have all brackets, and accesories off the block. You should have it down to bare block to make it easy. I'll shoot ya a PM with my cell #, if you got anymore questions/problems..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Thanks ExtremeRS.
As you should konw, I send you a PM about my problem.
As I stated, I removed all 20 bolts total (crank, and bedplate)
and I can still lift up the WHOLE ENGINE BLOCK by just holding the bedplate. help!
GIl

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

hey man i got your PM..you need to take off the bellhousing/trans. Part of the bedplate is bolted to the trans..Even if you have the bolt out, you still need to remove the trans, because there is a round metal peg in that hole that bolts the bedplate and trans...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Sup ExtremeRS...
I think this picture will clear up everything more.
""

And there are about 60-80 pictures of my rebuild so far:
http://www.rpi.edu/~leeg2/eclipse/Engine%20Rebuild/

Anyway, as you see in the picture, the engine is away from the tranny. What I am saying is, only the oil pump is there, and that BIG gear with that thin metal plate there also.

In the pictures, the screws are still there, but I unscrewed everything, the oil pump screw, but can't remove it yet...

SO anything??? I can't get that bedplate.
OK, is it suppose to be that tight???
Me and my dad lift up the whole engine block by holding the bedplate, and we shack it, and still it hold TIGHT..... ????

Thank guys.!!! Any input will help!!
GIl

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

>Sup ExtremeRS...
>I think this picture will clear up everything more.
>""
>
>GIl


Ok, you need to take off the oil pump housing, and crank gear. If you are positive that you have all 20 bedplate bolts out, the bedplate should be ready to come off. If you look at the oil filter adapter, right under that, there is a section of bedplate that you can get a hammer on right there. Then, on the opposite end of the bedplate, hammer on the one "leg" of the bedplate, the one that is used to mount to part of the trans. I used these two locations to lightly hammer on, to break loose the bedplate. DONT pound like all hell on it, and DONT pry it! You def do NOT want to damage the bedplate mating surfaces. You can hammer on it, where i told you, not really hard, but not really like just tapping it either. Mine broke loose with several hits on each of those locations i mentioned. Since the main bearing journals are part of the bedplate, you want to lift off the bedplate and loosen it, as evenly as possible. You need to lift it straight off, not at any other angle.. If its at an agle, then it can get jammed a bit..Be SURE its not at any funky angle right now,like one end of the BP is up like 1/8", and the other end is still touching the block..ya know, keep it even and level when you take it off and bring it up off the block.

How freely does the crank turn? If you have all the pistons out, the crank should turn really easy. If its binding, then something may be wrong with your main bearins. I suppose its even possible to have siezed one or more of your main bearings, makeing separating the bedplate hard ( the bedplate is what splits the main bearings in half)

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

It's a bitch to seperate them. The anaerobic sealant puts up more of a fight then you might expect. The bedplate can come off without removing the oil pump, by the way. Just need to break the seal between the pump and the bedplate. In fact, I have a crank right here with the oil pump still on it. There should be one place where you can get a prybar between the bedplate and the block. If you look at the oil filter housing, and go towards the flex plate, on the same side, there is a place where a beefy prybar can be put. Just force it, and when it is seperated there, work your way around.
Hope this helps.
Best of luck!
-=B-=

Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.

Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate.
Me: Can I put that in my sig?
Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.

Yeah, you dont have to have the oil pump off, but just be sure its loose I personally don't like having stuff still attached to the block. Get it all down to bare block, so nothing gets in the way. My bedplate actually separated fairly easily

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Hi guys..thansk for all the input.
I tried again to day.
I removed the big gear, and the thin metal plate.

But sadly, when I try to remove that crankshaft gear (for the timing belt), I use the 3 arm puller and BROKE off a small piece of the edge of that crankshaft gear (for the timing belt) Is that ok??? SHIT I KONW I SHOULDN"T use that puller... but it's a small piece, can I still use it????

Thanks guys...

BTW.. I still can't take off the bedplate... NO CLUE WHY...help.
Gil:wary

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Sup guys. After today 3 hours of after work...engine block work again.
Here are the new updates pictures.
http://www.rpi.edu/~leeg2/eclipse/Engine%20Rebuild/

Day 6 is the news.

Anyway, ExtremeRS, and others who read this post... I can't get the bedplate off the block. See the below picture
""

I got everything unbolted, but still cna't get the bedplate off...I got the oilpump lose as I siad..but still AS FIRM AS A ROCK....any clue???? and ideas??? please tell me where should I do and try..thakns
Gilx(

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

man, i dont know what to tell ya..You say you have the oil pump loose? Are all the bolts out of it? or are they just looesend up? That whole piece at the end of the block is the oil pump..the crank gear nees to be off to get that off. Thats the only thing i can see holding you up, if thats the case. For some reason, if you did some major damage to your main bearings, that may cause it to almost sieze the bedplate and block together..i dont know.. how freely does the crank turn?

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Remove the crankshaft pulley
Remove the oil pump
Remove the bedplate

I don't see why you're even bothering with the bedplate before the oilpump(or the pulley for that matter). Were you planning on taking the crank to a machine shop with the oil pump attached to it? You're only delaying the inevitable. If you don't have the right tool to get the pulley off, then go get the right tool.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.943 @ 86.48mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Hey XtremeRS
I made a new post about this bedplate problem.
And I put tons of pic in that post...so check it out...it might help you to figure out to help me in this problem..THANKS A TON.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=5&topic_id=53040&mesg_id=53040&page=


THANKS

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

You really should get the oil pump off. It's going to have to come off anyway for the machien shop. With that off and the seal broken on that end you'll have more room to play with the bedplate. Just get that pump out of there.

No I wouldn't re-use the broken crank sprocket, could start to shred the timing belt once it's back together. Get a new one from Bob Kise, I think around $15, not bad. And get the right puller to remove it, can't use a 3 arm on that, you'll brake off a pice of it (which you already know).

And please answer Matt's question, how easily does the crank turn? It should turn like nothign at all, no pistons rods, should slide around like butter. If it doesn't there could be your problem.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

OK, I use a wretch at the end of the crank... and I turn it... in a full 360 degree turn..I can say 180 of them is smooth..and then I need to use some power at the other 180...then the 180 coming up is effortless... then again...and so on.
is that a good sign??

Will have have to get new block and bedplate if the main bearing really got FUCKED UP????
do i need a how new crank???
Please...don't scare me here....I don't know what to do now...
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Don't panic until you get it apart. Get it over to the machine shop then take measurements and you can go from there.

If it still turns I can't see there being enough damage or ovaling of the bearing to hold the bedplate on. My guess is the seal is just strong and you need that oil pump out of the way.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

OK,...but fur the crank.. you said it should turn like a butter..
waht youmean by that???
do you mean, I can just turn the crank PURELY by my bare hand (fingers) holding just the axle (the round part) and be easily turn it???

now, I use a 6 inches long wretch to the end (using the crank pulley bolts) and turn it... don't really need alot of effort... but not like... HARD... like ... hum....the force of shift gear in manual...
is that normal???
please explain in details... I AM IN PANIC..I do'nt want to get new block, new bedplate and new crank man..SHIT!!!

Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Compared to turning a ful engine pstons in sealed up bolted together fighting the compression strokes of the engine the crank should spin like a top. But there is still weight to it and still some friction against the bearings. Just as long as it doesn't bind and you have to really fight it, don't worry.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

There will be some resistance to it, that is natural. You have to get that pulley and oil pump cover off the car. Get a harmonic balencer puller to get off the crank pulley. You will need to take a bolt from the timing cover to the store and get a longer bolt with the same size and thread pitch. Get the bolts about 3-4 inches long and you will need 3 of them. Once the pulley is off, break the seal on the oil pump cover and remove it. Then you will have access to all sides of the bedplate to block seal. Then use a rubber mallett (or hammer with a block of wood so nothing gets messed up) and hit it to jar the seal loose. Or tey the prybar first to see if that will break it. The seal is supposed to be a good one. With the old HG's sometimes you have to beat it a little to break the seal too. Your not far from being finished with the teardown now so don't panic. Your parts should all be repairable. No point in panicing until you know what your panicing about.

I edited to the wiki!

Thanks guys..I will try everything you guys said again.
GIl.

I will post more updates again tonite!
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

The crank, having no pistons/rods attached to it, and no oil pump on, it should turn by hand. It wont turn by itself if you try to quickly "spin" it and let go, but it should turn easily by hand, with slight resistance.It should feel as if you are spinning it in oil(no binding or scraping,ect..there should still be oil residue in the main bearings) If you have to use a wrench on it to turn it part of the way, then that is NOT normal. It should NOT bind or anything in its full revolution. I'm willing to bet you have main bearing damage. But like Michael has said, it most likely is not enough to keep the bedplate from coming off..but you never know i guess. All i know is that on my old block(about 80,000 miles), i just tapped each end of the bedplate on each side a few times, and that broke the seal. From there very light tapping evenly around the bedplate fully broke it free. No prying, or hard hammering at all. I have heard some people have difficulty getting that bedplate apart, so dont know there..something with the main bearings just doesnt sound right. I highly suggest a good reputable machine shop look at everything once its all apart, to see what you need. Good luck

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)