Sup guys.
It's been 2 weeks now.
I just want to let you guys all konw what my progress is at.. and maybe some of you who plan on taking out your engine, this might helps!

I started of disconnecting all the wire hazzards, remove everything that I can includes, fans, battery, power steering, AC Compressor, Alternator, coolant hoses, cables, etc.
I also removed the heat sheild, the exhaust manifold, crankpulley, cutted timing belt:nono (DAMN AUTOZONE), Engine mount, bracket, timing belt cover.
Then remove the valve cover, uncrew 10 bolts, remove the 2 bolts before intake to block, remove the engine head.
Hook up the engine hoist, remove the 6 tranny bolts, remove the 4 bolts from the engine gear to the inside of tranny.
Lift up the WHOLE ENGINE BLOCK straight up.

Now, I remove the oil pan, dip stick, flip the engine over, unscrew all the bolts on the bedplate and the crankshaft to the piston rod.

(WHAT I STILL HAVE TO DO)
I remove the oil pump, water pump, take off teh bedplate, then loosen the rods (bearings) then remove the crankshaft, and all piston and rod. Then clean the block, hone it, cut the crank journal, get new bearing..and THAT"S ALL!!! I AM DONE.

(NOW I HAVE 3 QUESTION!! PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE!)
1) I already took off teh bad bearing.
by visual, it look like it is 0.5mm or maybe 0.3mm thinner then the other 3 good rod bearing. SO just by that little fucked up gap cost my car to KNOCK like crazy and lose power?????
2) Since teh bearing are mostly still there, you expects think I need to resurface the rod?? THe bearing did rotated to different position. but still on the journal and rod connection. New rod? resurface? or just leave it is good?
3) Do I need to get new rings? If I take off the piston from the block, do I have to get new rings? will the rings pops off when I remove the piston from the block? or can I just remove it, and just put the piston back in without worrying the ring (IF I decide not to change them) ?????

**EDIT** What I am asking and doing here is... just to get the engine running perfectly again. NO MORE BAD BEARING, no more weird sound, and runs perfect to like 3500RPM. this car (my g/f) will NEVER race with this (use my eclipse.. lol) never boost, nothing.. no mod.. just daily regular driving. MIGHT go up to 80MPH. So, do I need to change other things? Thanks...

THANKS GUYS
I really apprecaited... I am close to finish!!!!
YES!! And I can't do any of this without all you guys help!!

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Sup guys..as I promised all of ya.. I took alot of pictures.
But I will take more when I finished fixing teh block, then I will take out every parts and screw, and take a few pictures for each of them. for future reference..

Below is the link to my rebuild pictures:
http://www.rpi.edu/~leeg2/eclipse/Engine%20Rebuild/

In that link, there will be couple folders, the Day 4 and Day 5 will be up tonite. coz I finally reinstalled and got my photoshop working again.

Ta.... BTW, give me LOTS of inputs from the above 3 questions ok guys!!
THANKS.
Gil}(

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

>1) I already took off teh bad bearing.
>by visual, it look like it is 0.5mm or maybe 0.3mm thinner
>then the other 3 good rod bearing. SO just by that little
>fucked up gap cost my car to KNOCK like crazy and lose
>power?????

Absolutely.

>2) Since teh bearing are mostly still there, you expects think
>I need to resurface the rod?? THe bearing did rotated to
>different position. but still on the journal and rod
>connection. New rod? resurface? or just leave it is good?

You should actually be able to tell if any surface needs work - it'll have a rough surface as opposed to a smooth/polished surface. Inspect all of the rod AND main journals on the crank, as well as the connecting rod bearing surfaces.

>3) Do I need to get new rings? If I take off the piston from
>the block, do I have to get new rings? will the rings pops
>off when I remove the piston from the block? or can I just
>remove it, and just put the piston back in without worrying
>the ring (IF I decide not to change them) ?????
>

IMO - It's bad form not to re-ring at this point. What I'm sayin is that, yeah you could - but I wouldn't. Inspect the cylinder walls. Make sure they aren't gouged. If they are then you'll have to get the block machined. If they aren't then there's a good possibility that you can just hone them. To be sure you have to measure the cylinder bore. Rebuilding an engine is a lot less turning bolts than it is checking clearances/tolerances. A good rebuild is "in spec". There's no guessing about it("These rings LOOK good" or "The cylinders are FINE" ). You have no idea how this motor was working before tearing it apart. I mean, you said it yourself - the car isn't very fast, didn't know if it was just the auto, etc. Wouldn't it be a pisser if you slap this thing back together just to find out that the rings on one, or two, or ALL of the cylinders were ALREADY on thier last leg before the rod bearing spun?

I'll also just give you a couple more tidbits - keep the rod caps with the rods, and mark them for direction. Also the pistons should be marked for direction - take note of it and put them in the same way they came out. If you haven't already downloaded the factory service manual and the overhaul manual from Dino's signature then now would be a good time to do so.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
15.943 @ 86.48mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Thanks alot MetalJim..but I still have some unclear parts.

>>1) I already took off teh bad bearing. by visual, it look like it
>>is 0.5mm or maybe 0.3mm thinner then the other 3 good.....

>Absolutely.
My car really lose alot of power.. Compare to my MTX Eclipse at least. I really never go above 3K RPM, but when I start, I go up to 3K RPM, but the car starts not as fast.. Is it just the spun bearing?
Also, from exhaust, it has smokes coming out, and smells like gas, or oil or whatever... (bad smell) so can spun bearing cause them??

>>2) Since teh bearing are mostly still there, you expects
>think I need to resurface the rod?? .....

>You should actually be able to tell if any surface needs work
>- it'll have a rough surface as opposed to a smooth/polished
>surface. Inspect all of the rod AND main journals on the
>crank, as well as the connecting rod bearing surfaces.

do I need to inspect otehr journal surface? I thought only spun bearing part will be bad...??

>>3) Do I need to get new rings? If I take off the piston
>from the block, do I have to get new rings?.....

>IMO - It's bad form not to re-ring at this point. What I'm
>sayin is that, yeah you could - but I wouldn't. Inspect the
>cylinder walls. Make sure they aren't gouged. If they are
>then you'll have to get the block machined. If they aren't
>then there's a good possibility that you can just hone them.
>To be sure you have to measure the cylinder bore. Rebuilding
>an engine is a lot less turning bolts than it is checking
>clearances/tolerances. A good rebuild is "in spec". There's
>no guessing about it("These rings LOOK good" or "The cylinders
>are FINE" ). You have no idea how this motor was working
>before tearing it apart. I mean, you said it yourself - the
>car isn't very fast, didn't know if it was just the auto, etc.
> Wouldn't it be a pisser if you slap this thing back together
>just to find out that the rings on one, or two, or ALL of the
>cylinders were ALREADY on thier last leg before the rod
>bearing spun?

OK, yes I understand that I have to get everything in spec, but also, MONEY is a big thing here.. I just don't want to spend too much on things I don't really need to do.
BTW, do I have to clean EVERYTHING in the engine block? coz some mech said since I spun a bearing, all teh metal piece are all over teh engine, so even I rebuild, the engine will fuck up by those pieces...so is that going to happen??? or what do I ahve to do?

Thanks.

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

All pictures have been uploaded!!! Enjoy!

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

im so glad your doing a write up with pictures. did you rent the engine hoister? i want to rebuild my engine but i really dont want to pay $1000+ for taking out and putting back in the engine but i dont have any other choices because i dont have the damn tools.anyways, good job and good luck

SOON TO BE THE WORLDS BEST f'in PROCRASTINATOR!!!!-me

roses are red, violtes are blue, i'm a scitzophrenic, and so am i -bill murry i think