Hi guys what's up.
After a whole weekend of tortures, working with the car IN RAIN.... I finally got the head out.
But STILL, I STILL CAN'T REMOVE THE STUPID CRANK PULLEY, and the stupid ENGINE MOUNT BRACKET. (the timing belt is STUPID).

OK, what I did the first day was simple, just remove some simple things and nothing with the head and block.
Here are some of the pictures I took over the first day. (nothing special)
http://www.rpi.edu/~leeg2/eclipse/Engine%20Rebuild/Day%20One/

Now, the second and third day comes.. it's my worst nightmare.
If any of you planning on a rebuild, let me tell you this. THE HARDEST PART in removing the engine, is the STUPID F**KING timing belt cover section (which includes, the crank pulley, engine mount bracket, timing belt cover, and everything inside that stupid MOTHERF**KING plastic cover)

Don't mind me to be so rude above ^^^ but you guys have to understand, I SPENT 9 hours on Saturday, and 4 hours on Sunday (IN THE RAIN) and STILL can't (just for only) remove the crank pulley and the bracket... WTF.

But anyhow, I CUT the timing belt at the end, bent the timing cover, remove the cam pully, unscrew the head->timing cover screw, and finally remove that pulley and got the head out WITH THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

Here is the pictures I got from the second time: (ALOT)
http://www.rpi.edu/~leeg2/eclipse/Engine%20Rebuild/Day%20Two/

For the block, the piston looks REALLY BLACK and have like a coat of ASHES on them... is that normal? anyway, look at the pictures, and tell me if there are anything I should change or fix to get this engine back to perfect state again. (no upgrades ok) I just need to get this engine back to great shape.

BTW, now that I got my head off, my next step is to use the lifter and get the block out and get it fix. How should I do it? I sitll can't drain the transmission fluid yet (ATX) and also, I still can't take off the oil pan. But if I did get them fixed. I found out there aer total of 4 engine mount.

One on the left (to the engine) and the other 3 is connected to the transmission. So if I take off the engine, do I just unbolt the tranny from the engine block, and remove th eleft side engine mount, then just lift the engine up? Then I do'nt have to tie the tranny or anything, coz it won't fall right??

Thanks guys.
Gil. I finally understand why DINO's pictures always says "IT GOES SLOW" now I fainlly understood.. IT REALLY GOES SLOW..and it goes worst and worst too.....
Gil:wary

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

There should be 2 motor mount on the engine (front & passenger's side) and two on the trans (rear & driver's side).

Did you get a 5 ton 3 arms puller to get the crank pulley? That's what you need. Then get a bolt same size and pitch as the crank pulley, at least a grade 8.8, I prefer 10.9, 9.8 will work tool. The bolt needs to be about an inch longer than the stock crank bolt. Back the bolt out about 1/2" to 3.4" from the pulley at a time then push on the bolt pulling the crnak pulley off the crank. Then you can get to the tensioner and timing belt stuff.

There's another thread about getting the egine mount out of the side of the engine. (Performance section, should be first page still).

As far as black build up on the piston tops, it's normal carbon build up, everybodies got it.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Thanks...as I said, and from the pictures, I got the head out.. But I just can't get the crank pulley, I tried everything, I even use a bar and try to crank it out..but the bar bented.... crazy...

But is there anything special for me to do befoer I lift the engine?

ALso, for the engine mount, I do see four engine mount..but for the front out, isn't it connected to the tranny? that's how it seems like, check out the pictures.
Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

go rent a power tool for 15 bucks and watch that crank pulley come out easily. Look in the yellow books, there's gotta be a tool store where you can rent stuff. Find a place where you could rent catapillars, lawn mowers, dump trucks and they should be able to rent out cherry pickers and power tools.

intricatelines.com/ -graphics and vinyls

"Tell them of us and say,
For their tomorrow,
We gave our today."
-- The Kohima Epitaph

Actually there are 3 mounts on the tranny and one mount on the engine. The front mount is acutally on the tranny (yes, it fooled me too, but you will see how much that sucks when you have to remove the tranny to work on it and you only have one mount left holding up the block.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

You have 2 motor mounts that attach to the tranny. One by the firewall, and one under the battery. The mount up front is connected to the crossmember, and that bracket on the mount is connected to the block.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Sup, I konw what you are saying.
I took off the head and everything, and I stared at my engine block and the engine bay for like an hour. I remember everything. And I took TONS of pictuers too. But I mean, look at this pictures.

""

It definitely to mee looks like it's bolted to the tranny.
I konw it is connected to the cross bar..but iesn't it still bolt to the tranny?

ALSO, I DO HAVE A QUESTION.
When I later use the lifter to take out the engine block, and I will not take out the tranny. Do have have to take off the cross bar? and which mount I have to take off?
Thanks.

Gil:thumbsup

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

You have to take off the motor mount in that picture. It is not connected to the tranny, its connected to the block. You can get under the car and unbolt the mount from the bottom of the crossmember, or you can pull out the through-bolt that runs through the center of the mount. The last motor mounts that are attached to the tranny you don't have to mess with. Just hook up the block to the cherry picker (engine puller) with chains, take up the slack, and remove all the bolts that hold the block to the bellhousing and it will come out. You will have to tilt the block at a fairly steep angle to get it out and it helps to remove the fans and radiator if you havent done that already.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

Thank again for relying ...but sorry if I annoy someone here..but I am newbie in this.... since I never take out an engine before.
About all the terms you use, I have no clue what you said...
what is the bellhousing...??etc??

Can you list a step by step for me? I am going to take out the block in the next few days...I need to be clear first. For the 2 mounts on the tranny, do I have to take them off? when I unbolt the engine from the tranny, should I use the lift to push the tranny from the bottom?? will the tranny fall or bent down? What do I have to unhook or how to remove the block?

ALSO: THIS IS THE MAIN QUESTION:
When I lift up the head, there are two metal plate with a hole on it that bolt to the head for me to put the chain into to lift it up.
But on the block, there are none, WHAT SHOULD I DO? should I put the chain around the bottom of the block to lift it up??

Thanks guys.
When I got all this done... I will love all of ya..and I will definitly have confidences on rebuilding my baby red eclipse to Stage III..... ....ar...can't wait man. (day dreaming now...):wary

THanks.
Gil:thumbsup

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

Ok, the bellhousing is the piece that goes between the tranny and the block that houses the clutch on a manual transmission. If you leave the 2 motor mounts that are attached to the tranny hooked up, then you shouldnt need to support the tranny when you pull out the block at all (at least i didnt need to with my manual tranny). Anyway, leave the 2motor mounts connected to the tranny so they hold it while you pull out the block.

As for pulling out the block, what I did was to take 2 of the bolts that hold the head down and run them through a link in the chain and into 2 opposite corners of the block and screw them down all the way. That way, the lift is hoisting on the 2 head bolts and not on the mount bracket. You could connect one end of the chain to the bracket and the other to a head bolt on the opposite side and that would also work fine. Sounds like you are almost there, I'm sure you are learning plenty as you go. I give you props for just tearing into the motor like you are without much experience... it can be quite intimidating the first time.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

Thanks for the reply and I thank you for saying that. I did learned alot...and truely, it did made me go through alot... what a weekend.

But for now, until I can fully remove the block and put it into my eclipse's truck and drive it to a machine shop for a reasonable price for a rebuilt, I won't conside myself as COMPLETED the first part of the rebuilt... but I am getting there as you said.

Thanks again.
About whta you said...the bellhousing. you said it holds the clutch to the tranny?
Let me ask you something ok...since you sound like you did a rebuild before.

When I lift up the block.. is this the step I do below.

1) Setup the engine hoist
2) Connect the chain to a bolt and screw it into the block
3) secure the block
4) remove the left engine mount and front engine mount
---left back and right mount (on tranny) screw in.
5) unbolt the 7 (I think it's 7) screws before the tranny and block.
6) lift the engine up in a 45 degree angle.

Is that all I have to do above???
Thanks again man.
I will post more pictures when I am done with this.
Gil:thumbsup

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

That sounds correct. If it appears that the tranny needs additional support (I have a manual tranny so I dont know how an auto will be) then just support it with a jack or whatever is handy that works well. My guess is that you wont need any additional support, but if anyone else knows better, please feel free to correct me. I have done several rebuilds now but they were all on manual tranny cars, so sorry I can't give you 100% positive info there.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

Thanks Matt.. You been helping me alot throughout this rebuild..and so did Dino, Extreme95.. and all others.. thanks guys.. I really appreciated.

BTW, One more question, when I remove the front engine mount and unbolt the tranny's screws from the block, do I have to remove that cross bar?

I do'nt konw if it is called the "cross bar", but I am talking about the ONLY huge metal bar that go across (Vertical) the engine bay and it sits below the block and the tranny. Kinda inbetween the two.
Do I have to remove that cross bar?

Thanks guys.
Any more inputs on the procedures I said above?

Gil

~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~
Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges...
Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons...
Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers...
Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior


$240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!

1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI
2010 Audi S5 Quattro

No, you don't have to remove the crossmember. From what you have said, it sounds like you have all the bases covered. You should have it out in no time.

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...