How the heck is this thing removed?? The engine mount bracket in front of the timing belt. It has three bolts... I removed the top one and loosened the other two, but the one in the lower front doesn't have room to come out no matter what!

I already broke the timing belt cover in half and took it off. I've tried jacking the engine up and down, but that bolt has no room to come out. I'm thinking the only way would be drilling a hole in the fender about an inch in front of the hole that's already there. Is this the only way or is there a simpler way I've overlooked?

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Black 96 GS

-Manny

you just have to keep playing with it and eventually it'll magically come out.

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

lol, I've played with it quite a bit already. I'm thinking about loosening some of the other engine mounts and pushing the engine away a little bit (pushing the engine left). Hopefully that should do the trick.

For anyone who's not sure what I'm talking about, here's the illustration... it's Figure 2 (Engine Mount Bracket):

http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G-NT.html

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Black 96 GS

-Manny

Take out the rubber mount (if you haven't already). Remove the bolt that holds down the hard lines to the EVAP canister (should be 12mm, maybe 13mm). Support the engine with a jack (block of wood between the jack and oil pan). Raise and lower the engine while you manuever the mount around. Get the back bolt slid out to the fender between the EVAP hardlines and then youi can slide it around and out.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

1) Pull out the easy bolt.
2) Remove the front and rear motor mounts.
3) Lower motor as far as it will go.
4) Have someone push down on it slightly.
5) Pull lower bolt under the frame-rail.
6) Jack up the motor as far as it will go.
7) Have someone pull the motor forward a little bit.
8) Pull out the upper bolt

DONE

-=B-=

Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.

Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate.
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Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.

On my 95, once the front MM is disconnected (just pull the bolt/nut out of it) and the side MM removed, i can jack the engine up far enough for the long mount bracket bolt to touch the power steering hard lines. All i've done is pry the lines apart (two up top, big return hardline on bottom) enough that i can finesse the bolt between the PS lines and remove it. Once its been taken apart enough, all the gaps you need are there, and its not that much of a problem. The bolt towards the rear in that bracket is a little tricky, but once the other two are out you can pull the whole bracket and bolt out towards the frame rail and kinda twist/pull the whole bracket out. That particular bracket took me 15 minutes this afternoon. Took me longer to get rhe AFX pulley off - i couldn't find the puller first, then i couldn't find the right bolts, and in 105* heat (index), you can't spend more than 15-30 minutes at a stretch exerting yourself before you have to take a break... took me all damn day to get my head off because i kept getting lightheaded and dizzy and having to stop. Stupid body...

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If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

yep what Dino and Michael have said. You wont be able to fully remove the last bolt closest to the firewall, in the bracket, you just have to get it out far enough to free the bracket and then you manuver the bracket with the bolt in it still, out of the car. You have to get it around that one part of the timing belt too. After you have done this a few times, you get better/faster at it. I know i had bent and separtated those EVAP hard lines, far enough apart to get the head of the one bolt in between the lines, then that gives you JUST enough room to manuver the plate. After this last rebuild, i took the liberty of going and getting 3 more bolts, that were about 3/8" shorter. There was still plenty of thread in the block to hold it, and now since they are a tad bit shorter, will be MUCH easier to get out for now on

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Thanks for all the help. I tried everything and it didn't seem like there would be any way for it to come out alive. After a couple more hours of struggling and what not... I took the liberty of cutting the bottom bolt and was able to remove the bracket fairly easy afterwards. I'm gonna find a shorter bolt to replace it cause there's no way I'm gonna get a same length bolt in there.

___________
Black 96 GS

-Manny

Yeah it gets easier every time you do it.

Dino, maybe if you smoked a little less you wouldn't have been dieing as much



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC