Well I fired her up just to see how she ran. As the car heated up and giving it some gas, the coolant begins to bubble a little, the most when she shuts down... Hmmm... sounds like a blown head gasket to me. I'll do a compression test to make sure.

I guess I didn't get the copper head gasket to seal. I'm not going to discourage others to try, but I will recommend this. Do it only if you don't mind tearing the engine back apart, which I will be doing. Also I'm going to recommend o-ringing the head and machining a receiver groove in the block. Also allow more prep. time for the copper gasket spray to set and become tackey. I only let it sit for about 30 minutes, then dropped the head on at a very low torque spec.

I may try to torque the head bolts to a higher spec before I tear it apart... but I doubt that will help... I did 65 ft-lbs all around... which may be too high, and that's why it's not sealing.

Well I'll be tearing it down and installing the MLS gasket I have. Does anybody know when the crankscraper guyy was returning I remember finding the website and he said they'd be gone for a while. If I could get one before next weekend I would like to install one, while everything else is apart.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

That sucks. I hope that you can get it all worked out.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

If you have a bubbling coolant resovour (bubbles most when you shut down) then you have a leaky head gasket. Drive it for 30 minutes and I bet you'll overheat! Throw out the copper gasket and don't look back!

Good luck getting everything apart & back together! I've been waiting for a couple of years to see your car at the next level.

you shouldn't use the copper gasket spray for a copper head gasket. try something like P/5.
http://www.headgasket.com/sealant.html

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I thought their P5 eseenstial was a copper gasket spray...



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

lol, yep I'm sure she didn't seal up. I'll get it swapped out for the MLS. And I'll pass on the 30 minute drive... I'd like to not have to machine this head again...

Not I need to squeeze this in during the next week (parents are gone, no Dad hovering) around brian's engine pulling extravaganzy.

It kind of sucks too, because the ECU was learning the idle and she was sounding mean!



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Sometimes after running the motor a little hard, and shutting it down, the coolant will bubble. I thought the same thing a day ago and did a comp test and got 150 (cold) exactly across the board this morning. I would get a leak down or comp test first. (I even checked the Chiltons on this too)

Shit is all apart. Typical...

Yeah, but she idled for 5 minues... maybe, with a few times reving her up, and it bubbled a little then. I'll probably do the compression test to be sure... but I would bet money she's not sealing, and I don't make bets I don't think I'll win... hehee.

If the numbers come out dead even across the board I will be very surprised. Probably run the test Friday, and begin tear down Saturday before I head to Brian's to help with the engine removal, depending on how early he's starting. Hmmm... next two weekends are going to be busy. I want the car to start by June 1.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Micheal, you know if you ever need a hand just give me a call. After all I will want to drive as much as possible after I get the Eclipse up and running agian

Well I don't know if the TQ specs change with the copper gasket, but 65 ft/lbs is low for the head TQ is it not? If I'm chasing ghosts here let me know, but I think you TQ that stuff to at least 75-80.

I edited to the wiki!

Stock is 50 ft-lbs + 1/4 turn and outer is 35 ft-lbs + quarter turn. 65 ft-lbs cam out to be roughly 50+1/4... I may pull the valve cover, which is easy since I need to helicoil a couple valve cover bolts. and give it some extra... maybe up to 75 ft-lbs and see what heppens.

Brian, I'll be working on her throughout this week (after work), and hopefully finishing up next weekend. So I'll be around working, you feel like turning a wrench let me know.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

I'm having the same problem.
But only on long distance drives.
I can run around town for a few hours and no bubbling.
But when I drive distances It'll start to bubble and sometimes overheat.
I don't think its a head gasket.
No milky oil or lost on performance.
Thinking cts or temp. switch resistance high when hot or w/p going out.

Stock 97 GST

Is that from the shop manual? The reason I ask is because with the new MLS gasket it gives higher TQ specs and I would imagine it would need to be higher for the Copper gasket as well. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to be rude, but are those TQ specs for the stock (non MLS) gasket?
EDIT: I just found your other post about TQ for the copper with the search... I think you need to re torque them tighter. I used the ARP head studs and went to 90 just like Dino. I don't know if I would go that high with the copper though. I would use the MLS torque specs, you should have the sheet with the gasket. Someone posted it before but I didn't find it. I believe it is around 75 ish, but don't take that to the bank. You used the specs for the OEM crapy HG.

I edited to the wiki!

If memory serves...

Stock crappy composite gasket:
center 50 ft-lbs + 1/4 turn
outer 20 ft-lbs + 1/4 turn

MLS gasket:
center 50 ft-lbs + 1/4 turn
outer 35 ft-lbs + 1/4 turn

Using the torque and estimating 50 ft-lbs + 1/4 turn came out to roughly 65 ft-lbs. I do think I should try torqueing it down a bit, head up to 75 or 80 ft-lbs, and see. I just don't want to over stress the Mopar head bolts and... snap.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

hate to sound very obvious but did you replace your thermostat yet..if its not a failsafe thermostat and its staying closed it could explain why things are getting so hot...its only a 10 dollar part, may be a good idea to do that before you go ripping the head off

400whp or bust.

i think i can speak for michael when i say he has a 160 degree thermostat from howell

Wow, my car does that too, never figured it could be the head gasket.

I just changed the radiator and it stopped, no oil in the fluid, and no fluid in the oil. Go on, im listening

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Damn, i'm glad you've got that. I have the stock specs in my manual, but i can NEVER remember what the damn MLS specs are when people ask me. Cool.

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I stand corrected. I thought they were higher than that.

I edited to the wiki!