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Yes a compression test can tell you if valves are bent. valves that don't seal won't hold pressure, so the tester won't read a high number. But a tooth or two shouldn't bend valves.
Skipping a tooth or two will mess with the ECU, the crank and cam sensors won't agree so the ECU can be confused on what dto do with ignition timing. It may also have gone into limp mode which makes low throttle crap but WOT throttle okay. Also if only one cam skipped and the other stayed the same, you have just changed the cam profiling, increasing overlap changing timies the intake and exhaust valves open and close. Which cam make the car rough at idle, when you have increased overlap idle suffers, ask anybody with aftermarket cams. More overlap also pushes the powerband higher in the rpm range (usually).
First thing to do is get the motor back in time. Make sure you get the tensioner compressed before you re-install. Then get someone with a racket on the tensioner pulley to put tension on the belt while you torque down the tensioner.
Then do your compression test. See what she reads. She how she idles. If there is still a problem then worry about damage.
And how do you figure $1500 to replace valves? If you did the work that amount is obscene. couple hundred for the valves (if SS), and a couple hundred for machine work tops. Some new gaskets and you're good to go... as long as you didn't damage the pistons, usually just a few scratches, you should be able to do it for a third the cost. If you paid someone to do it, then they screwed up and you shouldn't have to pay anything.

15.9 @ 86.7mph
Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC
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