Car died comming off the highway today, no loud noises or metal on metal contact. Tried to start it and nothing. Look under the hood, and the timing belt has rubbed through the rear TB cover to the point that a sliver of the cover comes off in my hand. WTF?????? It's been 400 miles since the rebuild/swap and I put in a new tensioner, and new idler pulleys on the car when i did it. When I put the timing sproket back on I put a piece of pipe inside the lip and hammered it on till it stopped. Could this be on too far, or could it have stopped before it was on all the way? Is there a shim behind this thing? All I saw was the key and the sproket. Could the belt have just slid over a little to far and started rubbing, or is there defenately something in there that has failed, and threw it off? I called howell and they said that with the 8.6:1 comp. and the oversize valve cuts in the JE's that I should not have hurt anything. So I plan to put it to TDC and then put the new belt on and see what it will do. Any advice or help that you guy's could give would be great. I'm fuckin freaking out here a little bit. I'm thinking it will be just fine but I still have those questions.... TIA

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I wouch check the crank sprocket, if you didn't get that on all the way yes it could rub the t-belt the wrong way.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

I'm going to hammer that on some more while I do the belt anyway, but could it happen without a problem though? When I talked to other people they thought it could have "just" happend. Is there a shim that goes behind that sproket? Should I pull the head while I do the t-belt? I'm thinking I should try to start it first before I go the extra mile to pull the head.

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Thura advised me to have the crankshaft sprocket go on as far as the groove in the front of the sprocket is exposed once you have the sprocket on the crankshat so far as it's almost touching the oil pump main seal.

I also went without any timing belt covers.

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Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

On the crank timing sprokit, is the Key supposed to be flush with the face of the sproket? I still have a little room inside the key slot before the end of the key. I assume that if the UDP went on and the belts line up for A/C and PS then the crank stuff is all correct, am I right?

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does it look like this?


if so it could be the same thing that happened to me. right after replacing the timing belt the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley on the bracket broke. no noise or anything, just stopped. i had 4 bent intake valves.

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

If you look at the crank, you should see a grove in it, that should be right infront of the sprocket. The actual sprocket will be almost to the point of touching the block, with a tiny gap in between. I know with my AFX pulley, it will push on the sprocket to the correct position when the AFX pulley is on all the way. IMO, its not a very good idea to pound that crank sprocket on there, as you can damage the thrust bearing in the block. You should always use a big socket or similiar to push on the crank sprocket(using a longer crank bolt and some washers, just like putting on the UDP.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Jugglo you were right my friend... Same fugin bolt, and my cover looked the exact same. That thing is a $300 fuckin bolt. ($88 for part, $50 for t-belt, etc, etc.) It's back together now though, I'm just glad it was not something that I did when I put it on. I replaced the tensioner and both pulleys, i should have just bought the damn bracket and only one pulley.

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No bent valves?

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Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

Nope! Howell said it would be non interfearence, and unless I got really really super lucky then they were right. No issues the car feels good and runs just like it did before the belt went on me. They said it was the low comp pistons and oversize valve cuts that make it this way. I'm doing a comp check soon, but nothing is wrong that is affecting the car at all.

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