I wanted to know if I could start rebuilding my engine. Here is the scenario. I want to install a turbo kit into my 97 gs later on in the future. But I hear that if you change the engine internals you will get more out of the boost without the mishaps of things breaking. My question is if I could start rebuilding my engine now. New Crower rods and JE pistons(I heard 8:8:1 fits my car) what do you guys think would be good? I also want to get new cam gears, cams...What else can I start doing to make the engine stronger for the turbo install? help me out...

www.artexmusic.com

97' grey gs/Greddy EVO catback/Greddy header/AEM cai/afx udp/dropped on 2" sprints

if you go with that low of compression your car will be even slower until you add the turbo, maybe buy the stuff now if you must but install turbo and internals at the same time

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

Yeah I have 8:5:1 JE pistons, and without turbo, I couldnt beat a freggin' probe, haha.
--
Brad
98 gs turbo

Ok thanks but what about new cams and cam gears?

www.artexmusic.com

97' grey gs/Greddy EVO catback/Greddy header/AEM cai/afx udp/dropped on 2" sprints

Save your money. Those aren't going to make the car anymore reliable and there are easier cheaper ways to go faster. Just do the bottom end and if you have money left over for some valvetrain upgrades go ahead and get the 2001 spec chrysler 2.4L rocker arms and lifters.

Since I cant use photopoint IMAGINE THIS:
Star turbo with E-trim and HKS BOV
Starion FMIC/2.5" piping
Joe P MBC
Apexi SuperAFC
Ross Pistons/total seal rings
Ported and matched intake manifold
AFX 55mm TB, FMM and UDP
2.5" downpipe back exh/Hayame muffler
Crane wires/Denso Iridium plugs
Centerforce DF clutch
KYB AGX struts/ST springs, UPR FSB, F&R camber kits
17" ADR lightnings/toyo FZ4 215/45/17
97' eclipse front end/projectors
Autometer gauges
Panasonic head unit/ Sony X-over
MB Quarts all around/JL stealth sub
Hifonics/MTX Thunder amps
XX brand alarm/Varad hyper green led

Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

:farfrommugen:
Yes I still own a 2gnt.
Damn right I've been here longer than U
klassic_liven@yahoo.com

for cams make sure you get a turbo grind so it will take full advantage of your forced induction!

Chris Dishmon

"Fillet Mignon?!?!?! How about a big slab of tube steak for the pretty lady."

chrisdishmon@hotmail.com
http://klipzracer.homestead.com/index.html

so let me get this straight, there is really nothing I can do to my engine to make it stronger and faster. New cam gears won't do anything? New cams won't do anything? What do you suggest then? Just go and port and polish my intake manifold, get my afx pulley, and get the 55mm tb, after that what, nothing until I go turbo? There has got to be something that can gain some good amounts of hp without going turbo/nos? is there?

www.artexmusic.com

97' grey gs/Greddy EVO catback/Greddy header/AEM cai/afx udp/dropped on 2" sprints

Not exactly. The problem is modifications that make good power NA aren't always compatable with going turbo. Do the porting polishing intake manifold, bored TB, Cam gears, porting/polishing head, some other head work will al help. But if you put in low compression pistons you loose power until you bolt on the turbo. Turbo grind cams will definately help once turbo but you could see a loss in power NA. A low compression set up with turbo cams would slow you down until you went turbo. So doing the porting and polishing of everything to help airflow, will help NA and turbo but the set up to build the motor is different for different applications, All motor, NOS, or turbo. So if you want to build the motor for turbo, I say just do it once while the motor is out... if you want to spread out the bill just start stock-piling parts, when the motor is out build the bottom end slap the turbo on and do it once right.

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads, S-AFC, A/F Meter

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins., EGT

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

Hey thanks for your help. I'll start stock piling parts then. But for right now...Let me get this right. Port and polish my intake manifold, get the 55mm tb, afx ud pulley... do you recommend getting new cam gears?

what kind of compression pistons would I be looking at if I'm going to end up buying the star stage II, and what kind of cams will I be looking at to

When I get that new tb which I will probably just buy from afx, is that an easy install? and also for the intake manifold, do I have to take that off myself? I don't think I'm ready for something like that? the afx pulley I'm going to change my whole timing belt at the same time at the dealer(I'm almost at sixty thousand.

www.artexmusic.com

97' grey gs/Greddy EVO catback/Greddy header/AEM cai/afx udp/dropped on 2" sprints

if it was me, and i had the cash, id go ahead and ge the parts and everything.. install it all at the same time.. i woudlnt mind being slower while NA for a while if i knew i was getting a turbo soon. so if you need to get it done right away, go ahead.. sure you'll be slower for a bit, but it will all pay off when you get the kit.

2GNT Member #76, since Fall 1999

Drives: 2004 Mazda RX-8
Drove: 1999 Saab 9-5 SE
1999 Eclipse GS Hahn Stage 1

Yeah Throttle-Body will help you install that is easy it's two bolts a few Torx screws and removing the intake pipe, very easy.

To get the Intake manifold ported/polished yes you'll have to take it off, or buy a junkyard manifold and get that ported.

When you get your timing belt changed have the Cam Gears and UDP installed, these parts will already be apart and the shop should only charge you a minimal amount to put these on.

You can do exhaust, just not a header, and any work work you may want done now too.

Crane has a turbo grind camshaft, but you'll need to index it to install. And I would go with 8.5:1 compression pistons, a nice set of connecting rods. If i were you and once again if you can afford the downtime knife-edge the crank and free up some rotational weight.

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads, S-AFC, A/F Meter

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins., EGT

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

Not saying cams and cam camgears ect wont do anything but knowing that its been proven our engine to make upwards of 400hp on a stock head and cams, not to mention 11sec 1/4 mile times why spend money when you dont have to.
For the price of headwork, cams and cam gears, ported this and that (if you dont do it yourself) you could have purchased stage 4 or 5 status (since your already doing internals) for the same amount of money and have 400+hp vs that maybe 30-50hp (on a turbo car) all that MIGHT get you (might get you nothing if done wrong/ineffective parts/wrong type cams). Shit if your more serious than that adding all that stuff later wont be a problem anyway.

Since I cant use photopoint IMAGINE THIS:
Star turbo with E-trim and HKS BOV
Starion FMIC/2.5" piping
Joe P MBC
Apexi SuperAFC
Ross Pistons/total seal rings
Ported and matched intake manifold
AFX 55mm TB, FMM and UDP
2.5" downpipe back exh/Hayame muffler
Crane wires/Denso Iridium plugs
Centerforce DF clutch
KYB AGX struts/ST springs, UPR FSB, F&R camber kits
17" ADR lightnings/toyo FZ4 215/45/17
97' eclipse front end/projectors
Autometer gauges
Panasonic head unit/ Sony X-over
MB Quarts all around/JL stealth sub
Hifonics/MTX Thunder amps
XX brand alarm/Varad hyper green led

Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon 420A-Turbo
Former and future nitrous user

:farfrommugen:
Yes I still own a 2gnt.
Damn right I've been here longer than U
klassic_liven@yahoo.com

well what I'm looking to do now is start buying the right parts for my internals so I can put it all together when I do the turbo install>I found some help from the guys at lowrider...they said they would help. I really don't want to go stage 4 or 5, I'm want to have some stock internals done because when I end up going turbo for my caris expected to have around 80000 or more miles and I don't want to blow my engine. So I just wanted to replace some old parts while spicing it up a bit making it a little stronger. But for that I need some help...

For some mods I want to do now...
1. Cam gears>>>hp? anything to help my engine run more efficiently?
2.Underdrive pulley
3.55mm tb

Parts I might need to start buying to rebuild my engine in the future? Pistons, rods, cams, lifters...Ect

www.artexmusic.com

97' grey gs/Greddy EVO catback/Greddy header/AEM cai/afx udp/dropped on 2" sprints

can anybody answer my last couple questions I had? thanks

www.artexmusic.com

97' grey gs/Greddy EVO catback/Greddy header/AEM cai/afx udp/dropped on 2" sprints

Cam gears properly tuned are probablky about 5hp atthe wheel.

For future rebuild, to stregnthen the bottom end all you need is pistons and rods. If AFX ever comes out with the ECU to raise red line, or you do some type of independant fuel controller. To really push it, you should do the valvetrain. Stainless Steel Valves, Titanium Springs and retainers, rockers(the ones off a PT cruiser are suppose to be strong enough)

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads, S-AFC, A/F Meter

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins., EGT

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.