I'm doing my rebuild here in the next couple weeks. As far as tear down and reinstallation goes, can I get some tips?
What was the hardest part?
What broke with no warning?
What, besides a lot of beer, do I HAVE to have handy?
If you got to do it all again, would you change anything? What?
You get the idea. I can't afford to F this up and would like to drink from the fountain of 2GNT knowledge.
TIA!

PS - I'll have to run 91 octane with 10.5:1 comp won't I?

>What was the hardest part?
-Removing the crankshaft sprocket to install the oilpump.

>What broke with no warning?
-10mm sockets. Like 3 of em.
-Puller bolts (mostly on crankshaft sprocket removal)

>What, besides a lot of beer, do I HAVE to have handy?
-More beer.
-Someone to jack the engine back up off your chest
-3 jaw 5 ton puller
-harmonic balancer tool (puller)
-longer bolt for removing the crank pulley
-anaerobic sealer Loctite 518

>If you got to do it all again, would you change anything?
-YES! Use air tools to get it all apart. It's the difference between a 3 day job and 2 hour job to remove the engine.
-I'm very glad I did it all myself, both to know how fix things that break now, and for the lack of frustration my friends are experiencing with their dumbass mechanics.

>PS - I'll have to run 91 octane with 10.5:1 comp won't I?
The factory manual says to run 92 octane on your stock pistons. So... yes.


BTW are you using the Howell 10.5 pistons? If so, CHECK YOUR HEAD-TO-PISTON CLEARANCE! Clay those cylinders for sure.

Oh boy, here we go...
I bought my car new and I believe the only DSMs that have to be on the 92 octane, according to the manual, are the turbo cars. However, I could still be wrong. I haven't looked at the manual in about 5 years, so...
THANKS FOR THE ADVICE THO! I DO appreciate it

bump
Anything else? Anybody?

Our cars, unlike the ACR Neons (I owned one of those too), like 89 Octane fuel, unless they're turbo'd or juicin'

Old School 2GNTer
Now rockin an 05 SRT-4

What exactly do you plan on doing yourself? The actual block build up with the pistons, rods, crank, all that? Or are you just swaping in a built up motor?

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

yeah, higher octane fuel, believe it or not, burns slower! the extra octane is to prevent knocking so 92 in a bone stock Esi/RS/GS will do NOTHING except possibly clog the cat from unburnt fuel. we are not as prone to detonation as the 4g63 is because we are Naturally Aspirated (stock).

i say that, but my car has had premium ever since it came off the dealer lot (thanks dad) but has missed quite a few oil changes, so i would go to 89 octane, but my knocking makes me buy premium as to prevent knock. (multiple wave fronts in the flame, causing bad piston slap in my car)

__________________________________
-Ryan

Yeah how much are you doing yourself? And how much experience do you have? rebuilding a motor yourself if you've never done it, I HIGHLY recommend getting the help of someone who has. You need to check clearances, use proper torque specs, etc. Biggest thing I recommend is a Good Machine Shop. Get the clearances machine as close as possible.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Look out!
This is to be my first rebuild and I have sufficient tools to get most of it apart. run4cvr, Uberingram and taloniized are all down here and have done their turbo installs, so they have a bunch more tools to borrow and I've helped out with a couple of those, but I'm planning on borrowing the specialty tools from AutoZone or the like.
As far as clearances go, I used to build automation equipment for the electronics industry and I'm comfortable with tolerances down to .0005", so I'm not exactly worried about tolerance issues. I'll just take my time and be patient.
I am, however having the block machined locally to avoid messing up the rings or the sealing of the head gasket. They're handling my over bore, polishing and prepping. I'm just remove and install this time around...
I feel, with a decent background in close tolerance electro-mechanical assy, a handful of proper tools, a coule buddies with more experience, and a lot of patience, I'll do alright. I can't wait to get started. (but I have to... pistons on back order...)
Thanks as usual for the advice!

No offense to anyone, but turbo installs are still in my opinion under the bolt on catagory. Tearing a motor down is a-whole-nother story. Read through a shop manual for the procedure and make sure you are comfortable with it before you begin. I'm not saying you aren't capable, but having someone around who has seen the inside of an engine would be a good idea. There are a bunch of random special tools you will need. Get a chiltons or factopry service manual and get the details before you begin.



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Yeah, its not really that hard to build a motor, but taking your time, and knowing EXACTLY how to assemble it BEFORE hand really is essential. Check out the link in Juggolo's sig, it has the complete 420A rebuild specs, and procedures. It shows where to put the special anerobic sealant on the bedplate-to-block connection, and also on the oil pump housing-to-block. All the needed torque specs are also there. Follow ALL torque specs!! Get a good click type torque wrench. A good set of feeler gauges for setting piston ring gaps, and also a nice fine file to file the ring gaps. KEEP IT CLEAN! Use a motor bag when not working on the block, and keep the cylinders oiled, along with the cams, and all valvetrain parts. Use some good assembly lube on all main and rod bearings,and torque to spec. Take special care when putting in the main bearings, to be sure they are seated flush with each edge. Dont forget the small O ring that goes between the bedplate-to-block, as it goes right in the oil filter location. You will see it when you take off the bedplate. Be sure freeze plugs are installed evenly, and in far enough(about 1/8" in is good). That really is most of it, but just take your time, and follow all the proper procedures, and most importantly, the proper torque specs, esp on the bedplate bolts, the rod bolts, head bolts, cam bearing caps, and oil pump and oil pan. The service manual will tell you what bolts need loctite, so be aware of that. Any more q's, feel free to ask, as i just recently got done building up my own motor. Good luck

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

NOW THAT'S WHAT I'M F*CKIN TALKING ABOUT!
THANK YOU!!!!!

This thread is getting book marked for sure. Hell, I might just print it out later! I've got juggalo's link in my favorites for some time now and will be printing/reading the rebuild section entirely beforehand. I've had my Chilton's since the car was new and it's practically threadbare, but it's still good for a few more years.

Again, thanks for all the input! Points for everyone!
And would anyone else have something more to add? I've still got a few weeks until I get into this. Wow. Now I'm REALLY psyched!

the most trouble i had was dealing with the POSPITA plastic thing that goes around the timing belt. that thing sucks!

also, the AF/X UDP was hard to remove. you definately have to heat the dam thing up with a good blowtorch. i faked it with a heat gun, but it didn't work that well. and when you go to put it back on again, pop that sucker in the oven at like 500 degrees for a good 20 minutes or so. it will slide on the crank bolt much easier that way.

watch out for the flywheel. it's a pain in the ass to get under the car, modulate the access port by the oil pan, and get all 4 flywheel bolts. don't forget to use locktite, or else the flywheel bolts will come loose and, well, that sucks. happened to me a few weeks ago.

that's about the hardest stuff i can think of off the top of my head. oh by the way, i never "rebuilt" my engine, i just installed a new shortblock.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Pull the motor with the tranny still connected, it makes it MUCH easier than leaving the tranny still in. You will need to take off: Intake piping, battery and tray, washer res, all tranny linkages, PS pump, AC pump(leave the hoses on, and set the pumps aside), crossmember, downpipe, axles, all vac lines, fuel lines at motor, all motor mounts, electrical connectors, and i took off my hood, as that gives you lots more room to work with. You need to pull the motor out at an angle, with the front of the motor facing the front of the car, to get the clearance. Here is a pic:

As you can see, most of the entire motor is still together, which makes assembly and the timing belt stuff a piece of cake. Oh, and dont forget the piston ring expander tool when assmebling the pistons. Be SURE to get the proper rings on the riht groves. Dont use the expander on the oil ring side retaining rails either!(much thinner than the other rings,and can be damaged)
I'm sure i will think of more things later

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)