Has anyone had this problem before? Installed egt/air fuel/trans temp/boost gauge up, as well as the super-afc. What needed a lead to the ignition wire, was wired up to the ECU wire (black with white stripe).

It has been working fine but last night we took her out for a drive to fine tune the safc and we kept her below 4k rpm and never guned it, and while driving suddenly all lights went out for the aftermarket gauges and car turned itself off. We pull over, we find out that the ignition fuse is blown. We figure there is a short somewhere, so we unhook ALL gauges and safc, including all the splices/soldering done at the ecu wires. Still nothing, as soon as you put a new fuse in and turn the key to "ON" position, that fuse will burn.

Has anyone has this problem before? today we're going to remove all the gauges and wires we've installed to fully make sure that there is no trace left of wires shorting, but figured i'd ask you guys.

In the future, specially for anyone planning on hooking 2 or more gauges, use a relay switch to use the ignition lead only to turn on/off the power, and run a decent gauge wire all the way up to the battery terminal.....

thanks,
Vinnie
www.asog.net
Project Skittles
http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/meshwork/lst?.dir=/Turbo+Avenger&.view=t
And no its not my car unfortunatel

_________________
Vinnie Lima
vlima@csc.com
AIM: Kiku888
1997 Chrysler Sebring "Silver XTC"
I4 420a w/ HRC Stage 2.45 w/ FMIC
14.7@97 mph@6psi
Proud member of the
ASOG BoOsT JuNkIe Crew

I tapped my S-AFC and A/F Meter to the ECU, with power for the A/F Meter coming from the Cigarette lighter.

I have the lights for my three(soon to be four, eventually five) Autometer gauges run off of the light that used to light up the ash tray, I removed the bulb and taped the power for that bulb and sent it to the lights for my gauges. I have had no problems with this set up and it's been at least 6 months maybe closer to a year.

"Claim Victory in your heart, and the universe will follow."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI w/ K&N Breather Filters, AFX UDP, 55mm TB, GS-T Muffler, FU/RU/RL STBs, Front NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., Red Silicone Hose Kit, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Bosch Rapidfire Plugs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads, S-AFC, A/F Meter

And in my Room: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Clutch Line, Rear Motor Mount Ins., EGT

Waiting for from RRE: Front Lower Tie Bar

Waiting for: Intake Manifold being ported/polished

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

yeah i kept blowing mine and i found out that when i tapped my underneath neons to the accessory fuse in the car and had tapped that wire again for another set of neons...it was grounding out to the frame. i replaced like 3 of the ignition fuses before i found out where it was grounding out at. i would make sure nothing you have hooked up is grounding to the fram or to another wire. just my 2 cents and i know i dont have a safc so that is prob what you really want to know about.


Talon
97'Talon Esi
Injen short ram intake
Rear-upper strut bar

(to be installed)
gs-t muffler
aem cam gears
af\x udp
56mm tb
injen cold air intake extension
eclipse sideskirts and door caps