I finished installing my built motor today. It has je's 8:1 25 over bore. I took the whole motor to a shop to have them do all the work. I also put in 330cc/min injectors and finally got my sfmu in. The problem is it sounds weird, almost like a tracter or like its really low on oil but its not. It only makes this noise in between 1k-2k on the tach. It will stall out once and a while. I also noticed the vac was getting down to about 25 and i had never seen it below 20 before the rebuild. Does this have to do with compression ratio? THEN i noticed it all went away sometimes. The vac would be around 18 and it would sound normal.

So i hooked up my datalogger and it said my short term fuel trim was at 24%, i guess this means +24%. Then when i checked the CEL codes its was saying no data from the O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1. The sensor was working fine pre-install, and it is connected. mabye i wacked it. Im going to get a new one from satan on moday, but i just wanted to post this in hopes of some other ideas. TIA! I hope to make it to the shootout this year if my car is happy!

And also the vortech sfmu is really solid! this was the best addition to my setup since the hrc kit!!!

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses

do not go to satan, go here http://catalog.mitsubishi-parts-wholesale.com/?make=MI&year=1996&Submit=Search+Now search under fuel injectors or system. less than 100 for the oem NGK's

Cool, thanks man! Just ordered it. I think the noise I am hearing could be my lifters. Why would this happen?!? any ideas?

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses

Honestly it may be what's called piston slap. JE's are accually known for that unfortunatly. When they heat up it tends to go away, I know the 4G63 guys have a huge problem with it, I'm just thinking you might be having the same. Just a thought!

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JEs and piston slap? Is this a turbo problem or am I gonna have a panic attack the first time I start my NA after rebuild with the 10.5:1s? Is it bad? What can be done to prevent? TIA.

Hrrrm. That sucks. I know my 1G used to make a similar noise, it was the valves or lifters, or something. I rebuilt it with stock parts and it sounded like new. Is thier any way to get rid of the piston slap? XtremeRS i know you have some imput on this! what if i drive up and let you hear it?

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses

Ok, i took it out for a 20 minute drive and after it warmed up the noise did go away! But once it cooled down and I started it the noise was back. I just want to be sure i dont have spun bearings or rod nock. I don't know what those problems sound like, never delt with it. So the noise DOES go away after it warms up, is this just something I will have to deal with? If thier is a real problem i would rather pull the motor back out and fix it now instead of stressing out when i drive it. thanks!!!

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four nails four corners four riders and four horses

like someone else said, it's probably just piston slap. as the pistons warm up, they expand a bit and fill the whole cylinder. while they're cold they "slap" against the walls a little. there's nothin' you can really do to get rid of it. shouldn't be a problem unless it's really loud(ie your cylinders are bored out too much), but if this was the case you'd probably hear it a bit even when it warms up.

- Dan

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I don't personally think that any motor with piston slap is happy. That slap is the piston hitting the cylinder wall, and they aren't doing that without consequence. That is causing premature erosion to the cylinder walls, which might result in a loss of compression before too long. Some think that piston slap is normal, I just don't.
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Forged pistons like the JE's, HAVE to have some excess wall clearance when cold. Forged pistons will expand a lot more than stock cast pistons, which is why you hear the slap when cold. If that clearance wasnt there when cold, then the piston heated up, you run the risk of siezing up the piston in the wall, or scoring/scuffing the wall/piston really bad. IMO, i would take a small bit of slap over no slap for that extra security. Now, if it slaps when its warm, then the machining wasnt done properly. Slapping when warm is def not good. I wount worry about it if it only does it when cold. The wear resulting from it wont be detrimental. Just remember to let your motor warm up fully until the slap stops before you drive it away, or get on the throttle.

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