I recently purchased a pocketlogger and while I love it for viewing and datalogging stuff, I cannot get it to display ecu codes or clear them. I have a 96 OBD-II car. My CEL is on and flashes 12, 32, 31, 55. I know that 32 is related to EGR and 31 is related to EVAP. The pocketlogger only picks up the code 32, which it shows as P0403. There are actually three references to code 32 and P0403 refers to the transducer failing. The pocketlogger does not show anything for the code 31 EVAP. There are five or six things refering to code 31. I would love to know the DTC code so I could be more precise in what to fix. The EVAP system has two solenoids, a canister, rollover valve, etc. Why will it not pull that other code? Perhaps I should break something else to see if will pull other stuff.

That may be related to my next problem... I cannot clear the codes with the pocketlogger. When I select the clear code button, my palm simply looses connection and will not reconnect unless I power off the palm and unplug / replug in the cable. I have read about others clearing codes (esp the egr and evap) with the pocketlogger. How did you do it? Any tips?

When I reset the ecu, my car drives wondeful. I have front and rear motor mount inserts and the car is smooth... does not rattle. After about three days, I get these two codes and my car drives like crap. It drives rough and at stoplights, the whole car shakes at idle. I need to fix this.

The last thing I need to know is, where do I buy a better shifter linkage bushing? I have a B&M short shifter, Symborski shift kit, and there is still a little play in the shifter. I traced it down to the linkage bushing that is located on top of the tranny right under the battery tray. Anybody make nice polyurethane replacements? There is a good .25" to .5" slack in that link.

Thanks... for reading this far.

-Jared
96 GS
Melbourne, FL

Iceman CAI | RS*R Cat-Back | AFX Pully | Milled Head 10:1 CR | MP 60mm TB

i know with my actron odb-II code reader you have to have the key to the on positon but the car can't be started. if you car runs better when you reset the ecu(i'm assuming you mean unplugging the battery) i would say you have a problem with your A/F components. after you reset it, it will take a few days for the ecu to remap the longterm fuel curve.

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

Well, I am not sure why the car is running so rough, but I do have two CELs so I figured I might start there. My pocketlogger will not do anything unless the car is on (engine running). If I just have the key in the 'on' position, it will never connect.

Thanks for the reply.

-Jared
96 GS
Melbourne, FL

Iceman CAI | RS*R Cat-Back | AFX Pully | Milled Head 10:1 CR | MP 60mm TB

Have you tried setting the sample rates, then view the engine paramters, then go to the diagnostic section? I know i had a prob getting the codes, but when i did it this way, it seemed to work better.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

The sampling rate test finds the correct and best settings for commication right? I know when I run them it takes forever for the counter to count down to find the right timing. I originally got 6 samples / sec and now I get about 9. I will try it again tomorrow to see if going any lower will help.

-Jared
96 GS
Melbourne, FL

Iceman CAI | RS*R Cat-Back | AFX Pully | Milled Head 10:1 CR | MP 60mm TB