ok, where should i begin. i installed new cams in the car and it ran fine for a few months until i hydrolocked the engine. had to get a new engine, and changed the cams over to the new engine. it had about 30000 miles on it, changed over the sensors, tb, intake man ect. just had to do something about that nice hole in the oil pan that the rod made. so anyways, after the new engine goes in, my car is running like a damn v-8. you know, instead of''bupt bupt bupt bupt bupt, its going''bupt...bupt...bupt...bupt(its the only work i can think of to describe the sound)'' and the engine light was comeing on reading a fuel lean code. it would sometimes stall when in reverse or at a stoplight. i could always power through it though. the problem would start small, and gradualy get worse then it would basicaly go away, the engine light would go out and everything would be fine for a few days, then it would start the cycle over again. i had it looked at my my mechanic and he said it looked like the timing was out, which was what i thought also. he said he ''thought'' that the cams wore to the old engine for the 8 months they were in there, and when we switched them over, they didn't agree with the new engine. so this past weekend, i put a hahn turbo in it, stage 1 for now, and got some cam gears, to try to adjust the timing. so the cam gears went in today and we had a hard time finding a setting that would work well for the engine, it still feel like it wants to stall. so we finaly get a setting thats close enough, so i take it and about 40 miles later the engine light comes on, and it almost stalls at every stop. not when its in park, or driving, just when i'm in drive and at a stop, reverse, or neutral. also on the hwy when the overdrive was on, it felt like it was bogged down when i got past like 4,500 rpm, like the limiter kicked in or something. but was fine when the o/d was off. now, i'm gonna take it back in to a diff shop on thurs to see if they can figure it out but i'm really stumped... some ideas i've had----------> orginaly thought it was a leak in the exhaust or a o2 sensor, but i had them all checked. ignition timing could be messed up, ignition wires could be arching on something, a sensor on the engine could be messed up----besides that i have no clue. i know its not the map sensor, the fuel pump, or anything to do with the turbo. i'm only running 5 psi and all the fuel settings are good. any help would be GREATLY apricated.

oh yeah, and i've never gotten more than 220 miles to the tank...

sounds like a timing issue to me bud.

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you should always correct a problem before adding more parts to the mix. you may not think there is any problems with the turbo kit, but there may actually be and now you might be fighting a battle of a couple problems that may be causing other problems. just always have your car running normal before adding performance parts. you're only asking for trouble.

98 eclipse gs
star stage 2 w/ bb, 8.6:1 je pistons, eagle rods, web turbo grind cams, udp, clutchmasters aluminum flywheel, clutchmasters stage 3 clutch, hks aic 3, 8 injector setup, phantom grip lsd, datalogger

What grind cams?
How does the MAP signal look?
Did you pull the crank pulley to check timing? (It's the only way to check it all). But it does sound like a timing issue... does the problem only start once the car is warmed up?




15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

no, i didn't check the crank pulley but we did adjust the timing with the gears. and no, the problem doesn't only do it when the car is warm, today it took me about 10 min to get the car started and going. i have to slightly push the gas so it won't stall while in reverse and low rpms. the hahn kit came with a new map sensor so i know its not that. but my new fuel pump that came with the kit is very noisy. the car isn't acting any different than before the turbo was in it. it gives me a good boost just always wants to die when at low rpm...

HRC kits don't come with MAP sensors..

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Have someone (shop) pull the ecu codes. Even if the light is not lit, the codes will stay until the ecu is reset.

Greg

'19 Genesis G70 3.3t AWD
'88 Chrysler Conquest TSI

Did you disconnect the old map sensor to put in the new HRC map sensor? If you did that's your problem. HRC kits come with an FCD, a device that keeps your map sensor from seeing boost, it does not replace the map sensor.

I edited to the wiki!

ok, the problem was there BEFORE the turbo kit was intstalled. it has nothing to do with the kit. it works great, except for the extrememly loud fuel pump.

am i able to adjust the crank? i'm taking it in a show now, i'll have an update later today. i'm about to replace the aftermarket wires. but i'm almost positive that the code that will come up is fuel lean.


oh, and does anyone know the number to hahn, there website is down. i want to ask them about the loud fuel pump.

From what I hear you can correct the loud in-line by replacing your in-tank with a walbro 255lph high pressure pump.

ok, so we found out that there is a vaccume leak somewhere. we check the pressure in the valves, they are all good. check the crank sensor, and cam sensor, both good. i just changed out the o2 sensor before the cat and that seemed to help with the bad stalling problem. (i guess it was bad for a while. gonna get it read by the computer tomarrow.) today when we looked at the timing, it was bouncing around, from -1.5 to 6 to 4 to-6 to 7. and so on. we also checked the plugs and wires, they were fine. the map sensor was rewired into the hahn setup so i don't think thats the problem. so i'm guessing that the cams i have suck really bad and they wore down to my old engine and thats why they run like shit in this engine. so i think i'm gonna have to eihor get a new cam or replace all my sensors, which i don't want to do eithor. oh yeah, and my turbo kit. the stage I, when you set it up, do you have to manualy set the 5 psi, if so how do you do it, or will it just run at that until you change it. at highway speeds SOMETIMES it feels like the engine hits a limiter and if i hold down the gas it feels very jerky and rough. then after a few seconds it goes away. i checked the fuel and its reading 40, so thats good, and the turbo has about 300 miles on it. ok, i'm sick of typing my problems, i just hope someone can help me with the little gremlin in my car.

i've never gotten 220 miles/tank... hehehe

FS: 2.5" Test Pipe 25 shipped

hey guys,
would a bad in-tank pump cause some of the problems that he is describing? I'm thinking that the in-line is powerful enough to get him going a little, but not enough to keep him going. that would also explain an extremely loud in-line pump.

just a thought.

peace
WIKKI


THAT is not f**king THAT!
THIS is f**king THIS!

ok, so now its not stalling out, but it keeps miss firing. and my fuel is still messed up. i guess the only way to find out how much fuel i have to to run it down and reset the needle. since i took the needle off once when i put my new gague faces in. but i know i set it right. so i have a 16 gal tank? well, i have a hrc stage I, automatic transmission, aftermarket cams, gears, 18'' rims, and a full exhaust system. now how much gas should i be using per tank?

oh and since i can't figure out what else the problem might be, i think it could be the ecu. when i threw a rod, i couldn't hear it, since the bad rain storm. i tried starting it again but couldn't, no shit, so i burnt up my starter, which died a few days later. then about 4 days later my alternater died. so i think my starter had a short and fucked up my ecu. also, i was never able to spin my tires. i just saw a post that someone with an auto and cai and headers could spin the tires. what might be stoping me from doing this?

Damn I just noticed something... Bullfrog racing cams, which means they are regrinds. Did you shim the lifters when you installed them on the head? If not, there's your tapping and power loss.



15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

well i guess i'm gonna replace my ecu, and get some cams, can anyone recomend some good cams?

well i guess i'm gonna replace my ecu, and get some cams, can anyone recomend some good cams?

ok, question. will a gs-t stock ecu work with my gs with a hrc stage I turbo kit.

No it will not!!! keep your ECUthere is nothin wrong with it. I have heard 420A horror stories about GUDE racing Cams, There was a guy on Dsmtunrs that move to germany that had his engine ruined becuase of the gude/bullfrog grind. tell them at gude cuz this guy got his engine payed for by GUDE racing.

420A = Dominating Potential

I have bullfrogs, and I didn't have to shim them. Supposedly you don't have to shim them. You may want to check the condition of your rockers and valvesprings though. Regrinds have a tendancy to wear on the springs/rockers more because of the steep angles. Open the valve cover and make sure that all of the rockers are in one piece. Then press down as hard as you can on all of the springs that are up. After testing all the up ones - rotate the engine to test the rest of them. You shouldn't be able to budge them. If you can, the spring is shot.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html