Okay, I have two turbo choices...buy it piece by piece (cheaper for me) and flub my way through it. Or save up for one which I can't do.

So I was thinking today about staying NA, seeing as how it would be safer for me personally. So here's what I'm thinking

10.5:1 JE pistons
Total Seal Rings
Eagle connecting rods
#10 grind street cam (crane)
Header
Gut Cat or replace with glass pack
Cat Back
CAI (already have it)
Adjustable Cam Gears
60MM Throttle Body (Modern Performance)
Port/Polish intake manifold and head
Larger SS valves
Upgrade Valve Train
SAFC
One of those windage trays (Hell, why not)
Oil Cooler
Fuel cooler
AFX ECU (If they ever make one for '99)
Underdrive pulley
Edit: Oh yeah, upgraded fuel pump and injectors if needed...pump definately


Now if I can get a block cheap I may do a bore over of .020...but I'm not sure it would be worth the scratch.

I'd love to get the 2.2l Stroker kit, but once again I don't know if I can afford it.


What do you guys think? Sorry if this is a stupid post or I'm bringin up old shit, but I'm bored and day dreaming LOL

Why not even higher compression than that like 12.5? You could top it off with maybe a 75-100 shot with the internals built for race duty and that car would be pretty damn quick. SAFC maybe for tuning or the Greddy E-manage.

Luke

1998 Mustang GT 5-speed
2002 Lone Star Shelby Cobra Replica

Cuz 12.5 sucks on the road. Has to be a daily driver

I had an SAFC listed....why Greddy e-manage? Thought that was a turbo device.

I just heard it was easier to tune with than the SAFC, not sure about whether or not its good for an NA car. Yea, 12.5 does suck, too bad they don't stock like 11 or 11.5. Of course our next project after the turbo 'Stang is going to be a 14:1 nitrous stang

Luke

1998 Mustang GT 5-speed
2002 Lone Star Shelby Cobra Replica

Yeah I'd say at least 11.5:1 if not 12.5:1. And go up to a little beefier Cams. I would not say larger valves are needed, especially with a low grind cam, just get dgood SS undercut valves in stock size. No one makes a windage tray for us.

A 2.2L stroker or 2.$L would be very nice.

Also when I get the funds and free time I'll be working on a quad TB set up, something yyou might want to concider.



15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Guy sells windage trays on eBay for tons of cars...ours included. I posted about it a week ago or so.


How much can you shave your deck to raise compression? I didn't think there were 11.5 pistons for our cars? And I don't want 12.5...I wanna run on pump gas. Daily driver only!

Emanage can be used on NA just as effectively as an AFC and it seems to be quite a bit more user friendly.

99GS MT | Star Stage 2 | GC coilovers | HurriganeGS tie bars | Tokico Illuminas | 17x7 Enkei RS5 | Baer track brakes |+

def get at least the 12's if u go crane.

03 rally red evo viii - stock
cardomain page
http://www.cardomain.com/id/steve0677

I think till your spend all that money to put all that one there you would have had enough for a turbo and probably be faster. Just something to think about ... esp if you are going to go with new pistons and eagle connecting rods.



WTB: 1/30/03 - Rods/Pistons/Rings

In all honesty, i would go all motor anyways, the torque that you have and the way its going to pull with those mods will amaze you, not to mention that it will sound awesome with the cams and under acceleration will be even better. Go all motor, turbo is too much trouble, at least for m

EclipsedChef was my first name..Member #460!

::::..Under Construction..::::

>In all honesty, i would go all motor anyways, the torque that
>you have and the way its going to pull with those mods will
>amaze you

Torque?

_________________
James

>Fuel cooler

What is this and why does our fuel need to be cold?

Allan
2008 Magnetic Black 350z NISMO /1976 Austin Mini 1098 Special (export)

Member# 1980

^^^ Uhm...I don't know, not too expensive and it can't hurt right?


Okay, so I've been told for every point of compression you get 4 horspower. So going from 9.5 to 10.5 would give me 40hp right?

So anyone have a formula for diplacement to horsepower? Like if I went with a 2.2l 10.5 what would that produce?

>Okay, so I've been told for every point of compression you get
>4 horspower. So going from 9.5 to 10.5 would give me 40hp
>right?
>
>So anyone have a formula for diplacement to horsepower? Like
>if I went with a 2.2l 10.5 what would that produce?

hmmmm....i think you have it a little mixed up bro. I think every point is 4% increase in power, and 9.5-10.5 is one point i believe. So, if you are getting 120whp, i think you would get somewhere around 125whp. Someone please correct me if im wrong. Also, for displacement, in the power stages it states that a 2.2l stoker kit will give you around 20whp. Hope this helps.

______________________________________________________
2003.5 M3
99 M3
99 GST

no going from 9.6:1 to 10.6:1 = 4 hp thats why noones does it,

u could bore the block out .140 over to get a 2.2 litre motor,

the 60mm sounds good,
so does the head,
10.5:1 sounds good u could shaved the head and get about 11.5:1(should be close to .050)

bob stockum has a true windage tray for us it should be finished by now...
(bstockum.com)

if u go all motor migh as well use some nitrous 75-100 shot and ud love your car...

the greddy emanage is just much better then the Safc in almost every way..

go with some big cams.. get some 18's willl idle a bit rough but you'lllove to drive your car everyday =),

UDP, cam gears, elecronic ignition control for the nitrous, and u should have a beast ofa car,

or u could build a budget turbo kit for about 1800$ when done..

with all the "all motor" mods u could hav e a much faster turbo car...

it depends on what u want to do.., a all motor car wont get much faster then what it is, a turbo car just needs to turn up the boost and give it more fuel..



Bill
Got Tude Designs

You can have it cheap, fast or good. Pick any two.

If you want it cheap and fast, it's not going to be good.
If you want it cheap and good, it's not going to be fast.
If you want it good and fast, it's not going to be cheap.

Oh damn, I was way off.....LOL

Back to the drawing board

That sounds like a pretty good all-motor setup. i dunno how "streetable" the 12.5 compression pistons would be though. if staying cheap as possible and rebuilding your engine is your decision, then go with the 10.5, cams, cam gears, all the normal NA stuff...and throw a direct port 75-100 shot on top of it for 500 bucks. it will definitely be fast enough for you then. i REALLY want to see a fast NA Eclipse, so goodluck with it. but, lots of NA power takes just as much, if not more, TLC than a turbocharged engine. just something to chew on.

www.TeamKLR.com
1997 Silver RS
12.3@118mph,20psi, race gas(drag radials)
Wiseco 10.5 Pistons
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
440's

Way to go man
I like the turbo setup too (especially after riding in run4cvr's Stage2!), but I like the idea of NA tuning. There's a lot of big dogs here on 2GNT with boost, so I'd like to go NA for a while. Then later, after school's outta the way, I can buy a motor and go newts on it in the garage building for boost then.

BESIDES- once you turbo, you'll most likely want to crank up the PSI eventually, and we all know what that means!

My plan for this April is close to yours:
*10.5:1s with the Total Seal rings
*new head gasket (sigh)
*rods, bearings, etc
*UDP (bout time I got one!)
*P&P the TB and maybe port match the intake mani.
*other stuff involved/convenient when doing the above.

THEN- tweak the head (which seems a bit labor intensive) with cams etc come fall. I'm planning about $1200-1500 each "stage".
Good luck to ya! we may not install 110hp in a weekend, but we'll still have a blast doing it and be just that much different to boot.

>no going from 9.6:1 to 10.6:1 = 4 hp thats why noones does
>it,

It's about 4% for every point of compression (1:1) So the more power you make with bolt ons the more advantage the extra compression will give you.

>u could bore the block out .140 over to get a 2.2 litre
>motor,

I don't recommend anythign past .060" overbore, the cylinder walls will be paper thin at .120" and VERY likely to warp and distort and creat sealing problems with your rings.

>the 60mm sounds good, so does the head,
>10.5:1 sounds good u could shaved the head and get about
>11.5:1(should be close to .050)

I say just get 11.5:1 compression piston if you are rebuilding and want that compression. Milling is a shortcut, you won't have to worry about correcting with cams gears if you leave the head close to stock specs, unshaved.

>bob stockum has a true windage tray for us it should be
>finished by now...
>(bstockum.com)

Hmmm... interesting... nice!

>if u go all motor migh as well use some nitrous 75-100 shot
>and ud love your car...

Certainly not if you bore out .120" you'd melt the cylinder walls. But just make sure you have enough fuel for the shot.

>the greddy emanage is just much better then the Safc in almost
>every way..

Isn't e-manage a stand alone? If so I'd recommend Electromotive for Stand Alone.

>go with some big cams.. get some 18's willl idle a bit rough
>but you'lllove to drive your car everyday =),

I do love the lope of a nice cam

>UDP, cam gears, elecronic ignition control for the nitrous,
>and u should have a beast ofa car,

Just watch your tuning, this set would take some time to get "right."




15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

You could go with 12.5:1 and the TTI thick headgasket which will put you around 11.5:1.


Blackdog makes pistons for the 2.0 AND 2.4 as well as rods for both. Go with the 2.4 bottom end bored over so you get some torque to play with. Keep the redline at the stock 7200 and have the balance shafts removed on the 2.4 and have a set of cams that will have the powerband up to 7200. I would use a set of 0018's, they aren't too big that you need to rev to 9500 for the powerband. 60 mm TB, Port the shit outta the intake manifold and have a nice set of headers modified to work with the 2.4 Get a test pipe if you can and a 3 inch exhaust.

This is what I would do, but it's yor $$$$





________________________________________________________________________________________
Car Sold


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