I have CM stage 3 non mod and CM flywheel all new...

After the break in I give it the gas and guess what it slips like a bitch. It wont hold a 3000rpm drop for shit. It slips at about 7psi of boost and I cant power shift at any point. I have it torqued down to factory neon specs. Pressure plate to flywheel @ 21 ft lbs of torque. I am thinking that it too much because it kind of feels line the clutch is still engaged a little....I need help on this one guys!!!! any and all ideas needed to help me brain storm.

TIA

what does it FEEL like when you let go of the clutch? how far up in the pedal is the clutch engaging? I have heard that the performance clutches engage quite a bit later, and if your pedal isn't adjusted out enough, then your clutch wont be fully catching.

I'm auto so I can't go by experience here, but I have talked to a couple of members who have had late engaging clutches.

anyone with aftermarket clutches. are there any shims used with the t/o bearings on either the stockers or the performance ones?

peace
WIKKI


THAT is not f**king THAT!
THIS is f**king THIS!

You could have a leaky main seal or that freeze plug behind the flywheel in the oil galley could be leaking. Other than that the only other possibility is that the clutch isnt fully engauging. Does the clutch friction point come when the pedal is almost fully released?

Matt
1995 Eclipse GS
2.0L, S16g Turbo, 8 Injectors, 26psi

1998 Eclipse GSX
2.3L Stroker, AEM EMS Converted to Speed Density, FP3065 Turbo, 35psi , and so on...

Maybe the flywheel is glazed.

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'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Is the slave cylinder releasing all the way? look on the front of the bell housing. you should be able to tell if the arm in not going in all the way. I had this problem after I installed a new clutch and it ended up being a bad slave cylinder.

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

I don’t think the rear main is leaking but I will find out if there is a puddle under the car in the morning.

The slave should be good, it is new and I did bleed it correctly but I will check that to in the morning.

As far as the engagement point goes it is WAY up top. It feels like it is higher than my CM stage 4 when I had it on. It feels like this, the RPM's go up fast and the car slowly starts to speed up just like your clutch going bad.

I think it's because it is torqued down WAY too much. If that is the case CM is going to get an ear full. The little card that comes w/ the clutch says to torque to factory specs. The neon Chilton’s says to torque the clutch to 21ft lbs of torque and the flywheel to 70 ft lbs of torque.


This isn’t my car or my clutch but this is what mine looks like:



According to this neon guys this is what his stock clutch looked like after 92k miles:



So I think this is my problem the fingers are in too far and it is not letting my clutch engage fully. So I don’t know what to do now... I am going to call CM in the morning and see what those dumb asses say.

Thanks guys.

Brian

hey JustOne, I just installed the exact same setup as you have. I installed it last week. I drove it easy for about 200mi or so them said F*** it and just got on it real hard. The clutch works great! it grabs like a MOFO!! LoL I saw the post you did about the torque specs for the neon clutch and I torqed them exactly like you said. I have no problems. yet anyway! you got the clutch disc aligned properly? I know it took me like 3 tries to get that bitch to stay centered. uuummm.. when I had my Centerforce Dual Friction Installed like 8 months ago, I broke it in then got on it and it slpped like you are saying. It was like the clutch was getting hot or something. I replaced the slave cylender, and then the master after that and it still would do the same thing. after a couple months later I Replaced that rubber hose that is between the 2 metal clutch lines. And it worked! Come to find out Under High pressure(Me dropping the clutch) that rubber hose was collapsing on the inside causing a hydro lock!!! so it was acting as if the clutch was like in between engaged and disengaged. I finally replaced that rubber hose with an RRE Steel Braided Cluch Hose and all is good now!!!


MODS:
Click on link to see mods
http://tunedmotorsports.tripod.com/kalexander.html

Hey Brian. When I first installed my CFDF clutch it was always slipping under low boost too. And my clutch release point was way at the top of the pedal travel too. I finally discovered that there's a bolt under the dash that determines how far back the pedal can return. The further in the bolt is screwed in, the sooner the pedal stops. Mine was turned in too far, so the pedal never returned enough and the clutch never engaged fully. Just something to check.

You are not your job.
You're not how much money you have in the bank.
You're not the car you drive.
You're not the contents of your wallet.
You're not your fu**ing post count.

97 Eclipse GS - *SOLD*
01 Audi A6 2.7T
01 YZF-R6

What makes it slip? I'll tell you, the 8 bolts that bolt the flywheel to the crank where coming in contact w/ the 4 springs on the clutch disk. I reused the metal ring that came off the non mod flex plate and apparently that made the bolts just high enough to touch the clutch disk springs. The pressure plate side was fine but the other side wasn’t coming in contact fully causing it to slip. I took the bolts to the grinder and problem solved no more slipping and good ol 20 psi, FINALLY! (it's been months)

On to the next issue...