I just need to know the steps to remove and install a new oil pan. Do I need to remove anything like the Exhaust pipe that runs under it or do anything besides unbolting it. or will it slid out if you just unbolt it?

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX

ive heard you must remove the exhaust downpipe. drain old oil completely, remove frame crossmember, undo old pan, remove any old gasket, lay new gasket on pan , i think you put a bead or 2 of liquid gasket on it, press up, install bolts in an opposite diagonal pattern. i dont know the torque specs. reinstall crossmember, install downpipe. start up for a couple minutes, turn off, check for leaks. hope that helps
later bro
chris

Make sure that you clean the bottom of the block where the pan mounts and the lip on the oil pan where the gasket goes to get a good seal. I've heard that the original Mitsubishi gaskets do not need sealant when bolting them on but I always put some sealant on both sides of the gasket to ensure a good seal. The sealant also helps to prevent the gasket from sliding around so that you don't have to worry about the gasket not lining up with the bolt holes.

Items that need to be removed:
Drail Oil *important*
Oil Filter (makes it easier - should be changed anyways since you are changing the oil)
Downpipe (careful with the O2 sensor)
Front Crossmember (5 bolts)
Oil Pan

Also, make sure when you tighten up the oil pan that you do it evenly. I snug them all up first and then tighten them, so that you apply consistent pressure to the gasket.

The install job is very easy but time consuming. I have done it many times now but you want to make sure everything is nice and clean before sealing it up.

Hope this helps,
Kurt

It is possible to not take off the cross member and also not to take off the dp. I know because I did it
Im sure it would be easier to do it the other way, but I really had no problem.

Nick
97RS
OBX Headers, OBX CAI, OBX Cat-Back, 8%tint,Walbro High flow pump, Accell wires/plugs, Custom interior, Upper Strut Bar, Kenwood/pioneer stereo.
Old: Custom IHI Stage2
In about a week: NX75 shot, AFX Ecu

If you have small hands like me you dont have to take off the cross member.

__________________________________________
~Chris
03 SRT-4

i was able to take out the oil pan during my turbo install without removing the center crossmember too.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

I also did not remove the cross member. Only thing about keeping the crossmember on is it makes getting to a couple bolts a lil tougher, but still easier than dealing w/ removing the crossmember IMO.

95 Avenger
ATX->MTX Swap
Holset HX40 @ 26 psi

If you want to leave the downpipe and crossmember, you will probably need to remove the pickup from the block. This will allow it to slide out without any problem. It's only 1 bolt, so no worries.
-=B-=

Thanks, I'm goind to try to not removing the DP or the cross member. does anyone know what the bolts size is for the oil pan bolts? Like 10mm?

>you will probably need to remove the pickup from the block

Whats the pickup?

venomtalon@aol.com

Performance Mods: Custom CAI, Jeep 60mm TB, Ported Intake Manifold with Jeep TB match, 5 angle valve job, Head milled .020, Regrind Cams, PT Lifters and Rockers, AEM Cam Gears, OBX Wires, NGK Plugs, AFX UDP, OBX Header, OBX