Hey all,

Well after searching for a reason that my car (2gnt, 98 GS, manual) was running crappy and I lost about 5 mpg I finally figured out why....

In the last 2 weeks or so I noticed a very abnormal noise coming from the engine area. I took it to satan to be checked out today and was told that I threw the #1 cylinder rod. So that means a total rebuild.


Of course Satan was happy to give my a quote of 4900+ to rebuild it AND charge me $35 for less than 10 mins work!! Question is now what do I do. The moron at the local Autozone hinted that the best thing to do is scrap the car. Considering I owe more that 5K on the loan yet that is NOT an option. The idiot then went on to say that you get what you pay for and I should have stuck with an american car!

I found one on line from http://www.nyblock.com/ for $1900. Used and tested but not rebuilt. The other engine I found was from Advance and was $2200, + core and offered a 3 year warranty for an extra 100 bucks. The part that makes me nervous is the block is bored not less that .040" over but not more than .060" I am worried about the walls being to thin. I will be replacing the engine myself to save some money. I have changed the engine in a Bronco II and I am a Helicopter mech in the Army. This is gonna be cold to change this in my drive way in PA at this time of year....BRRRRR! And waiting isn't an option since I need it to go to work, but I can take a week off for the time I need to do the replacement.

So here are my questions:
1. Which engine would you go with?
2. What problems can I expect to run into?
3. Any other ideas on buying an engine?
4. With being bored over....will this give me more HP?

Thanks to you all for any help you can offer. If you care drop me a line, my e-mail is Lordcoben@hotmail.com (my EQ e-mail accout)

Marc

I would recommend keeping your engine and rebuilding it yourself.

I know others have had questionable experiences with Howell, but I'd recommend getting a ready made shortblock with forged internals from Howell. (see above banner advertising for Howell Auto)

That way you'll get an engine with all the trimmings, ready for anythign you can throw at it. It'll cost about 2 grand for everything shipped to your door. All you need to do it pull your engine, put the old head on this engine, and go to town.

Make sure and get all the timing belt stuff (timing belt, tensioner, pulleys and bracket) and a new head gasket. I've heard that you can get a nice Fel-pro from NAPA that's a multi layer steel.

It would definitely be a good 2-3 day project, but you should be able to do it with a shop manual handy. (you can DL one) Also, we're here for you if you have any questions.

P.S. Just remember and double check the freeze plugs on the block to make sure they're sealed properly.

_____________________________________
Jason ESi-T

04' BMW 325Ci
91' Nissan 240SX
98' Eagle Talon ESi (sold)

yes, on both the above posts. if you feel like saving a little $$$ and knowing the job is done right (assuming you have acces to a reputable machine shop), rebuild the engine yourself. otherwise, just buy a howell replacement and get it over with quickly.

BTW..you DO drive an american car. its a chrystler for all intents and purposes.

:shhh: i do cocaine :/shhh:

>I>It would definitely be a good 2-3 day project, but you should
>be able to do it with a shop manual handy. (you can DL one)
>Also, we're here for you if you have any questions.

click on the link in my sig for the manual.

dsm/mitsubishi service manuals https://www.mediafire.com/folder/5k14qlaulb9s1/dsm_mitsubishi

service manuals(my whole collection) https://www.mediafire.com/folder/ac51jwwa3g1n1/automotive_manuals

I wish I could rebuild it myself...Unfortunatly I dont have the time to invest in that...or the space out of the elements to take on that project

Nor do I have the abilities to rebuild it so I need one that is reay swap with just adding on the external items.

Thanks for the encouragment though

Marc

I agree w/ Jason.

why spend 1900 on a used stock motor or 2200 on a rebuilt stock motor? A Howell built-shortblock is in the same price range (~$2K) and youll end up with a motor that will be ready for anything you may wanna do in the future. Or, if you know your never going to boost, go w/ the 10.5:1 pistons and get a nice lil bump in performance

Seems like a pretty easy decision to me :

good luck w/ whatever you choose to do

95 Avenger
ATX->MTX Swap
Holset HX40 @ 26 psi

Ok...

Maybe I am not understanding....

A short block is just the lower end of the engine right? I still need the head.. can I reuse my head without doing anywork to it? The block from howell cost 2150+ shipping. so I am in the 2300 ballpark.

I have no knowledge of how to disassemble an engine, not that I am unwilling to learn, but, I have no garage so I have to do this in a drive way. In PA. In the winter I would also need a gasket kit and a new timing belt...guess but that would be another 100.

What does the "Head" consist of? Do I need to do any disassembly of it? Who hard is it to take that apart?

The thing that worries me is "0" warranty on the engine from Howell and are sold As is And are for racing purpose only

I guess if I could find a garage I might give this some serious thought. And find another car to drive while mine is down.

Any answers to my questions would be appreciated

Marc

You can use your existing head with no problems. I am doing the same thing, but because I want to . I got a quote from a reputable shop for 820 for the swap, and am having one of the guys on the board build me a block. You can get all this done for 3g's and have a "Bullet proof" motor...


Nick
97RS
OBX Headers, OBX CAI, OBX Cat-Back, 8%tint,Walbro High flow pump, Accell wires/plugs, Custom interior, Upper Strut Bar, Kenwood/pioneer stereo.
Old: Custom IHI Stage2
In about a week: NX75 shot, AFX Ecu