LAST EDITED ON 30-Jun-01 AT 01:50 PM (PST)

LAST EDITED ON 30-Jun-01 AT 01:48 PM (PST)

Yes, after nearly 3 years I have been able to determine why I was getting low idle when stop for a red light or stop sign. When I would come to a stop my idle would rest at 750 rpm for about a sec. or 2 then dip to 400 rpm. No mechanice, no technican was able to determine why this was happening. After prayer reading all about my car (the book I purchased for my car looks like my high school notebinder hehehe) and speaking to my own father (electrican) we were able to determine (for my 1996 Mitsu. Eclipse RS) that ground from the neg. batt. terminal cable pigtailed to the frame was bad ground(transmission next to the starter for a 96 RS). Well since I love Rockford Fosegate wire it was time to go 4 gauge. Now I changed some things around. I no longer use the oem neg. batt. wire and I found my own Grounds to use. But it's important to ground wire from the engine to the engine compartment (metal). You must read 0.00 when you check your ground area with a voltage meter. It is important to sand down the paint and primary before you make your connections (using existing screws in the body and engine compartment of your veh.). Now in my car oem net. batt. terminal wire connection was made at the transmission near the starter. I simply used that because I don't want to burn out the starter. However, I am using the old oem predrilled and tapped hole in the driver's front area of the engine compartment as the ground no connectino is made to the neg. batt. terminal itself (again this if for a 96 RS). Any objections to this? I used the bracket that holds the brake fluid to ground the neg. batt. termainal. I have to wires for this at 4 gauge. Remember I am using RF Gold Plated Neg. Batt. Terminal they have one 2 gauge, one 4 gauge and I think two 12 gauge holes. I also purchased 2 RF batt terminals (+ is platinum, - is Gold plated). Yeah they are expensive but worth it if you want to add a amp, capacitor, etc.

Yes, it did help but something was wrong, why was I not reading + - 0.00 using my voltage meter in the first place (which means you don't have resistance)? Well I later found out after disconnecting everything that when I had my alarmed installed the installer failed to use some sort of wire protection when he drilled a hole in my firewall. Therefore as time went on that wire would tap away at the sharp edges and cause current to disrupt ground causing all your sensors, ecu, etc. to go heywire!
I noticed the discoloration in the wire but did not see any cuts!! Can you believe that! So I simply used electrical tape for a temporary fix until I am able to re route the wire myself.

Sidenote. Using my volt meter (digital) I would read 13.60 to 13.80 volts from the pos. to neg. batt terminals. My car would run but felt like I had poor 87 octane gas in it or something. Now it reads 14.02 volts and after I finished all my grounds I will take another reading (w/engine running). However, you should be reading about 14.30 volts or better if you haven't added anything that would drain power. However, I have piaa light bulbs, catz driving lights, alpine 5 channel amp at 25x4 and 80x1 for sub (under rated) RF capacitor .5 farad and Interstate battery to help things along. My nology wires are reading at least .05 or better between that and the reading off my Interstate Battery. I simply used 4 gauge RF wire, tied all the ground wires to the 4 gauge and grounded the 4 gauge to the side of the valve cover beside the intake.

Diehard battery sucks and I will never by another one again. Power drains to quick and interior lights would dim after 2 minutes when the engine was off (you know, when you have the car door open and hatchback open at same time). Very poor quality. I have not seen that from Interstate Battery.

What does this mean for me? After nearly 3 years I am able to produce factory torque and horsepower that I forgotten I had. Car seems fine now. God is Good!

I have pics if you want to see let me know.

God IS VERY Good :}



Oh yea... u know i be pimpin!

"RACECAR backwards is RACECAR!"

Kory
ticklemekory@cisco.com
Happy Honda Hunting!

The Original 2GNT []D[][]Y[][]D


96 RS


97 GSX

I'd keep the ground at the starter, that's where you use the most current any given time. you want a second lead going to the chassis, and the strut tower is also an excellent location. just use new bolts, and clean the crap out of the ring terminals. my 12v and ground travel almost 15 feet before they get to the starter, and my voltage drop is very minimal on crank, with a near zero resistance....on stock locations.
__________________________
...just my $.02
95 GS

____________________________
My $.02
95 GS