Ok I put my southbend clutch on yesterday. It seems to be gripping a lot better and it is not even broken in yet. Is it ok to drive on the highway before it is completely broken in? Also the clutch grabbs high on the pedal, like my old one did. Is this normal? The pedal feels lighter too. I tried bleeding the clutch but it still feels the same. Just want to make sure everything is ok. Also I put bg sincroshift in. WoW! my car shifts like butter. Satan said it was what the put in all the cars so.... Also the people at dodge were morons, when I went to get fluid and they would not sell it to me.TIA

You need to have the pedal adjusted where the clutch starts to engage when you lift the pedal off the floor approx. 2 inches. If you keep your foot off the gas, slowly let out the clutch in 1st gear with your parking brake on. Watch you rpm needle closely. Note how much you have to raise the pedal off the floor before your rpm needle dips ever so slightly. If it is higher than 2 or so inches before it starts to engage the clutch may not be fully engaged even if it engages many inches higher.

If you did not do the job yourself, have them adjust it just like I said.

Highway miles will not cause any problems. Do not use highway miles in your breaking period. Just add up city miles with numerous stops and starts/gear changes. I made the best of my highway miles by gently upshifting and downshifting(rev matching) on long drives(4th-5th gears). I did start to get on my clutch when I had 350 good city miles and by 400 miles I just drove it like I stole it. Not really slipping the clutch, just good pulls. I found that at 400 plus miles the clutch felt really broken in and grabbed extremely hard(kevlar/composite clutch disc).

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

i just bought the TZ clutch they had to offer, hasnt come yet but iv herd such good things bout them, ive herd that there clutched are just like clutch masters but not as expensive. anyway yea i think u gotta get ur pedal adjuted my buddy had to get his done on his Twin turbo z and his was a biatch

Boostless and loving it!
Way to many mods to list!

OK, well I adjusted the clutch so the rod is as short as it can be. The clutch sitll does not start to engage until it is like 3 inches off the floor. HELP?!?

I know you said you bleed your fluid, but my suggestion is to completely change it out. Just bleed the reservior down to 1/3 full, refill with fresh fluid. Repeat until you get only brand new fluid out. This should get rid of any moisture and all the old fluid that absorbed moisture. The whole process should take 20 minutes. I put a RRE stainless clutch line on when I did mine. Damn it sure did make a difference in pedal feel and controlling engagement is much easier now(slipping on the launch).

3 inches is not too bad. If you actually measured it, then I could live with that distance.

Just break it in and all should be fine.

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

What kind of clutches are these? Can I get a link?

I edited to the wiki!

http://www.southbendclutch.com

This is their online shopping site for their clutches. http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html

Just click online catalog, click mitsubishi, click eclipse. There are three modular choices using the stock modular flywheel. Their DXD series is suppose to hold 400hp.

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

brand new clutches engage all kinda funny. Live with it - by 500 miles it'll be normal again.

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My stomach tightened into a knot when I saw what fluid you are running. I am a big fan of the juice made for the NVG-T350. The BG is a bit too thick (75W90 or so as compared to 5W30) and doesn't seem to work as well for our transmission, from what I have heard. I have never blown up a transmission with NVG-T350 juice in it (but I did blow one up when all of the fluid left the transmission!).
-=B-=

>My stomach tightened into a knot when I saw what fluid you
>are running. I am a big fan of the juice made for the
>NVG-T350. The BG is a bit too thick (75W90 or so as compared
>to 5W30) and doesn't seem to work as well for our
>transmission, from what I have heard. I have never blown up a
>transmission with NVG-T350 juice in it (but I did blow one up
>when all of the fluid left the transmission!).
>-=B-=
Well the person at mitsu said they had the mopar stuff, the mitsu stuff, and the bg cyncro shift, They reccomended the bg. They said they used it in all the cars they service and that they have never had a problem. Howerver, they claimed to have blown trans with the mopar and mitsu stuff. It better work for the pric

Well thanks for the advice on the clutch, I will keep everyone posted on how it makes out. It seems like a really good clutch but we will find out. If any one has more suggestions please feel free to let me know.TIA

I have been using BG synchroshift for over 35K miles (3 years). I drained the fluid when I replaced my clutch and it looked like brand new fluid. BG synchroshift is thinner than Redline 75/90 weight gear oil recommended for the Mitsubishi transmissions. When I compared it to the stock fluid I replaced, they seemed pretty damn close. That was just my guess.

I would go on record and say that it is a bad idea to use any 75/90 gear oil.

I plan on changing my fluid every 30K. It is a smart inexpensive thing to do.

This time I also added Mitsu Friction Modifier when I added the BG. So far so good. The mopar manual trans fluid is actually more expensive than BG....couple dollars a quart.

I am not recommending anything to anyone. I am just stating what works for me and what does not.

97 RS(PTE SC-61, Built Long Block, Electromotive Tec 3)It's Here!

I am glad to see that some one has had sucess with the syncro shift. It is kind of a big load off of my sholders Only time will tell........