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its not too bad, the hardest part is getting it out of the engine bay, but ill get to that.
1) disonnect the negative battery terminal and wait 10 seconds or so.
2) raise the front of the car
3) it might help to remove the passengers side front wheel, but i didnt do it and it didnt get in the way.
4) theres two connectors on the alternator: a plug (unplug it), and a larger guage wire held on by a ring terminal and a bolt over it (i think its around 8mm, not sure though). take that off, and now youre ready to remove the alt. itself. 5) theres two bolts that hold the alternator in place, one that runs through the bottom mounting bracket (the lowest and easiest one to remove), and the top one, wich is also used for adjusting belt tension. that one is a bit of a pain to get out, having small hands helps. the tensioner works exactly like the power steering and a/c blet tensioner, if that helps any. theres a small bolt that you crack open to relese tension, and another that holds the alternator on. anywho, after loosening the bolts to relieve tension on the belt, take that off, and then remove the bolts to loosen the alternator completely.
6) youll now notice that you can move the alternator all over the place and ALMOST get it out through both the top and bottom of the engine.....but not quite. there are two methodes to get it out
7a) method 1: remove the intake manifold. its pretty simpl, just pull of the intake pipe, remove all connections from the throttle body and unbolt that, than remove all connections from the manifold and unbolt it. this method will take longer, but might seem "safer" to some people, PLUS, you can really scrub all the intake parts down, and possible port them, or do the EGR blockoff, or install a CAI at the same time, etc.
7b) method 2: get a jack and a sturdy, thick piece of wood that is roughly the same surface area as the bottom of the oil pan. i used the jack that comes with the car for this part because its easier to "fine tune" than other heavy duty ones, and that is important for later on. place the block of wood on top of the jack and under the oil pan and begain to raise it untill the wood makes contact with the bottom of the pan (but does NOT put pressure on it). make sure the wood aligns well the the bottom as well. now go back up to the top of the car and remove the motor mount right behind the coolant resivoir. you can remove the overflow bottle by detaching the top lid and lifting the bottle out of the car. watch out for the wiring harness underneath it, youll need to unplug that. NOW.....let me state for the record that i found it impossible to remove the bolts that run vertically through the part of the mount that attaches to the engine, therefore i could not take the whole mount of. instead, i removed the bolt that attaches the mount to the car (the horozontal one that runs parallel with the length of the car). the only downside to this is that its hard as hell to line the holes back up once you are done...so keep that in mind. after you have the bolt(s) out, you can go back under the car and SLOWLY jack up the motor. count with precision the number of rotations, just in case you need to line things up later to re-install the bolt. after every rotation, see if the alternator will come out. it shouldnt take much at all. once the old one is out, drop the new one in, itll just get stuck down there somwhere, LOL. now you lower the engine back down the same number of revolutions as you raised it, and reinstall the mount. check the service manual/chiltons for torque specs. i just tightend the hell out of it (im pretty weak though). if youd like, this would be a good time to install a motor mount insert.
8) reverse the steps to install the new alternator. make sure the belt is tight (should deflect no more than 1/2 inch or so in the middle of the longest run). if it squeeks tighten a bit more, and make sure to check on the tension after a week or so in case you are installing a new belt.
things to remember: if you choose method 7a, get gaskets before you start....you WILL break them all while removing the TB and manifold. if you remove the coolant overflow bottle, please remember to hook the wiring harness back up to the bottom of it when you re-install it. hmmm...i think thats it. well, good luck to you, it shouldnt take more than an 1.5 hours or so, assuming you dont die of hypothermia from all the cold weather everyones having.  :shhh: i do cocaine :/shhh:
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