Well, I just finished my rebuild, for the second time this week... Got the timing right.

Well after everything was back together, I fire my baby up, and she is running smooth, no leaks, no weird noises (forgot to plug the fan connectors in so she got hot for a little bit, but I plugged them in and the temp droped to normal again).

However, when I first fired 'er up, it was at around 1500 RPM (not exact, but guessing). Then after the thing warmed up, when it usually drops a couple hundred, she raised up to 2k RPM, and I can't get it to come down.

I checked the timing again, and I have my "money back guarantee on this one" that it is right.
I checked the throttle position, and it is closing all the way, the sensor is connected to the throttle too.
No vaccum leaks that I can see.

But I have no idea what else the problem could be...
Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks guys for any suggestions, you made my first rebuild of this motor go fairly seemlessly.

-Danny


" We cannot appeal to the conscience of the world when our own conscience is asleep. " Carl von Ossiet

This sounds like the familiar idle surge problem - the problem we never seem to find out what the cause is!!! so if you drive it a little bit, does it still idle at 2000? I think someone said previously they came to a stop and it started to idle that high, but they drove some more and it came back down. Also, did you disconnect the battery after the idle problem? might wanna try that b/c if memory serves me, that helped someone on this board

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

Eric thanks for the suggestions, I will try to disconnect the battery when I get back to my cousins house this afternoon.

I did try to drive it, I didn't hardly have to use the gas pedal, cause it takes it to 2 grand anyhow hehe...

-Danny


" We cannot appeal to the conscience of the world when our own conscience is asleep. " Carl von Ossiet

either check your cable going to the throttle body, maybe its not adjusted correctly allowing the TB plate to not close fully and causing your high idle, or it could be your IAC motor, if you have messed with its position at all it will be out of wack and think its completely closed when in reality its open enough to keep revs up to 2000 rpms.

If its staying up at 2000 like it sounds like its not idle surge, it sounds like a vacuum leak or like I said above, that would be the only reasons.

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

I thought I checked vaccum leak out good enough, cause when I pulled the line going to my BOV it went higher. I'll check that out again... However, what is the IAC thing you were talking about?

-Danny


" We cannot appeal to the conscience of the world when our own conscience is asleep. " Carl von Ossiet

yah, check the cable going to the tb, i forgot to connect that once and my car revved up to about 2000 rpm.. hehe



Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

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Michael
99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD...
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock
what other car should i buy?? hmmm
Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269

well it is connected, and there is some slack... not too much. The thing is resting against the thing... If you know what I am talking about... The side-ways plate thing that is on the same rotation thing as the cable connects to, is resting up against the bolt thing that is attached to the tb.

Edit:
Dino suggested Vaccum leak from things such as:
Injector o-ring
TB Gasket
Missing IAC O-Ring
Leaky EGR connection

and answerd my previous question what is an IAC Motor.... Idle Air Control...

Thanks guys.

-Danny


" We cannot appeal to the conscience of the world when our own conscience is asleep. " Carl von Ossiet

yeah the IAC is the Idle air controller, it is a stepper motor (which means it has more than just open and closed positions) it is what regulates Idle when coming to a stop etc... if it has been messed with it doesnt know its position and has to be reset with the dealers DRB3 tool, should cost no more than 25 bucks for them to reset it.

1998 dodge avenger 4 cyl AT
Mods are:
Not enough

Wouldn't this throw a CEL??? I ran the car for more than a half an hour and no CEL was there... I had a CEL before I did the rebuild.

I'll check it out tonite, and let you guys know what the cause was.

-Danny


" We cannot appeal to the conscience of the world when our own conscience is asleep. " Carl von Ossiet

Okay I am fairly confedent that I have found the culprit:
Electronic EGR Transducer Silinoid.
One problem, you can't just buy that part, you have to buy the whole unit, which runs $168.97 for a dealer only part. Damn, I think I am just going to block the EGR valve off, and see if I can't get that part ordered from Bob Kise some day.

-Danny


" We cannot appeal to the conscience of the world when our own conscience is asleep. " Carl von Ossiet

Check the o-ring on the IAc and TPS and see that it didn't get pinched on installation to the TB. I did that to mine with the bored TB install. Also a faulty MAP sensor dcould cause a bad idle.

997 Eclipse RS (in winter slumber for head gasket repair and other projects)

He who knows men is clever; He who knows himself has insight.
He who conquers men has force; He who conquers himself is truly strong.
-Lao Tzu

Injen CAI, AFX 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Apexi S-AFC

Firefly:
Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.

Electronic EGR Transducer Silinoid from pick-a-part $10, the dealer only sells the whole EGR unit together for too much.
Put it on... Only fixed the problem a little bit, not all the way. When I pluged the new one in, It was doing the idle up and then down, up and then down.
Looked to be the IAC connection wasn't all the way connected. opps.

-Danny


" We cannot appeal to the conscience of the world when our own conscience is asleep. " Carl von Ossiet