#40978, "ARP Head stud Kit........ Two washer question....."
I know that the parts listed on the main page will allow our engines to use studs, but I called up ARP and asked about a Kit for the DOHC engine. They have one listed under the Neon DOHC but it will not be available for another month or so. The corner studs listed on the main page are a little longer than the ones that will come in the kit and that is why you have to have two washers right? Does this pose any problems with the torque being applied on the studs? I have been told that this is not recommended, but you guys are usually right about most things. I need to get my head gasket changed, and I am not going to put the engine back together unless I have studs.
Enlighten me with the two washer situation please...
Oh yeah, I dont need the bottem end studs to convert from using head bolts to head studs right?
-Jared 96 GS Melbourne, FL She is sick...
Iceman CAI | RS*R Cat-Back | AFX Pully | Milled Head 10:1 CR | MP 60mm TB
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
#40981, "RE: ARP Head stud Kit........ Two washer question....." In response to Reply # 2
I have my receipt in front of me and here's what I got, worked GREAT! I HIGHLY recommend the ARP head studs! I ordered from ARP direct. 1-800-826-3045.
Use 2 washers on each of the corner studs so the nuts will full tighten down. The studs are a little long. ARP assured me that it's a perfectly fine method of installation and is common. They actually guessed that's what I was doing. The head DOES NOT need machined... that is nonsense. I wish an admin would take it off the main page!
Clean the block's threads thoroughly before installation. Use Moly Lube on EVERYTHING! Screw the studs into the block hand tight. Make sure they're screwed in completely and are all even at the top. Install the headgasket and head and tighten in proper sequence to 71 ft lbs. Loosen and re-torque 3 times. You're done!
If you plan on pushing lots of horsepower, I recommend 80 ft lbs of torque.
#40982, "RE: ARP Head stud Kit........ Two washer question....." In response to Reply # 3
Thanks alot.... I guess I really did not need the main bolts unless I was building up the entire motor. I talked to a very nice lady who took down my info and those part numbers on the main page... All I have to do is order them tomorrow.
Funny thing is, my mechanic says that I dont need them, all I have to do is buy titanium head bolts. I knew he was joking around and I told him that he was crazy... all I need is to convert to studs as it should help my stock motor handle boost better. (less chance of blowing out a head gasket or something) He tells me that my car can never be fast, jokingly of course. These guys are Peruvian and they drive GenII RX-7's... non turbo. I think I can beat him without a turbo, so I told him as soon as he puts my engine back together (and if I ever get my TB) I would race him and show him that my car is not that slow. Think I will win?
-Jared 96 GS Melbourne, FL
Iceman CAI | RS*R Cat-Back | AFX Pully | Milled Head 10:1 CR | MP 60mm TB
#40985, "RE: ARP Head stud Kit........ Two washer question....." In response to Reply # 6
Instead of head bolts they are studs that thread into the block. You then slide the head over them and torque down nuts down on the studs. They are much stronger than stock bolts, they provide a better torqueing with the head and help to prevent the head from being lifted away under high pressure.
1997 Eclipse RS (in winter slumber for head gasket repair and other projects)
He who knows men is clever; He who knows himself has insight. He who conquers men has force; He who conquers himself is truly strong. -Lao Tzu
Firefly: Mal: You don't know me, son, so let me put this to you plainly: If I ever kill you, you'll be awake. You'll be facing me. And you'll be armed.
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