Looks like it's working the MAP voltage properly - leaning removes voltage, richening adds voltage. The o2 monitor is working - cycles from rich to lean at idle and goes rich when I romp it(havn't tuned it yet). The tach is working - even though it reads about 100 less then the stock gauge I think its right. The speedometer doesn't work because it's expecting a kph signal, so I'm going to have to get a converter to get that working.

So now I get to tune the fuel curve - YEAH!!! When I get the speedo working, I'll be able to do 0-100m, 0-200m, and 0-400m time trials(like the gtech but in metric). I'm siked!! Finally something to tune with.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Field SFC Hyper-R : Gude cams : Jeep TB : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : GST catback
suspention___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!)
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns : Caspers o2 simulator(rear)
incomming___Bosal header
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
14.76 @ 94.72mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Sweet! Keep us posted as I am curious since you are N/A. I was thinking of getting one to lean my bitch out. How was the wiring on the 95/96. Did you follow the posted guide?

Second Place "Sanford Sound SLAP 2005" Mild 2-Door
http://www.sanfordsound.com/carwash2005.htm
Second Place "Scrapefest 2002" 2nd Gen Mild
1995 GS AT, 97-99 Conversion.
2000 BMW Z3 2.8
1999 Chevy K2500 crew cab
5 jets skis, 3 snowmobiles, 2 ATVs. BRAAP!
Member # 1147

I did a little tuning tonight. I don't have any AF meter besides the 2 light lean/rich blinkers on the SFC. I also don't have an EGT. So I tuned 3k up for WOT runs until it was JUST in the green(lean) all the way through the range, so that it's a tad leaner than stoich.
1000 0
2000 0
3000 -5
4000 -11
5000 -14
6000 -16
7000 -16
8000 -17
I didn't really notice any gain from that...but then again the only test 1/4mile run I made I didn't hook up right. The road is way too cold for good traction. Also I had the shift beeper(really cool feature) set too low. I only got a 16.2 where I ususally get 15.4s on the same stretch. I'll try again, maybe after all this snow melts. I'm not sure if I should to push it any leaner without a digital AF meter and an EGT. Any suggestions on safely tuning leaner without these gauges?

The wiring was ok. My 95's ECU pinouts are different from the 97-99 in the S-AFC writeup, but the wire colors are all the same. Actually I was a little worried about that, because i didn't want to be changing voltage for something else with the MAP feed, but yellow/black is the right one - it's leaning the car. As far as the Hyper-R's wiring harness, most everything on it is pretty obvious. All of the wires are labeled nicely: IG(ignition), o2(obvious), RPM, Speed. There are 4 MAP wires on the harness
SFC1 : This goes to the MAP sensor
SFC1-CP : This goes to the ECU MAP sensor input
SFC2 : Secondary MAP sensor - sensor side
SFC2-CP : Secondary MAP sensor - ECU side
Since we only have one MAP sensor, I used the SFC1 loop and left the SFC2 wires dangling. The difficult part wasn't the wiring, it was figuring out what to set the dipswitches to. I don't have directions for it. Supposedly you can get them with English instructions...but it's hard to find any information on it in English or Japanese. There is however an English translation for the older model(SFC Hyper). The Hyper only has one bank of 8 dipswitches. The Hyper-R has one bank of 8 and one with 4. I followed the Hyper directions to set the 8 bank. It looks like that bank is the same(as far as I can tell) for both the Hyper and the Hyper-R. Then I turned all the dipswitches off in the 4 switch bank - I'm pretty sure that these control rev/speed limit removal features for certain model cars.

It didn't take too long to figure out how to configure and flip around on the display. There are alot of features, but only 3 buttons. So I just played around with clicking, double clicking, and holding the buttons down for varying amounts of time. I've got most of it down now, even clearing the peak-hold speedo and tach. That one was wierd - you have to hold both the up and the down buttons at the same time for a second. The only thing I haven't been able to figure out yet is how to start a timed run. Bah, I'll figure it out. Its probably one of those up/down button hold things.

I suppose the ONLY complaint that I have is that the display is invisible in direct sunlight. I've got it set up right next to the A-piller facing directly at me, attached to the dash with velcro tape. You CAN read it during the day, but not when the sun is shining right on the display. I'm thinking about making a little sun visor for it. It looks great at night. The color even matches the stock gauges - orange.


ride__________95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
power________Field SFC Hyper-R : Gude cams : Jeep TB : AFX UDP : ram air : test pipe : GST catback
suspention___Hurricane F/R lower strut ties : BOMZ F/R upper strut bars : ES inserts
sound________Kenwood KDC 5000 : Audiovox 8" sub toob - no sub amp(damnit!)
shizzle_______AutoCommand remote start : dual air horns : Caspers o2 simulator(rear)
incomming___Bosal header
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
14.76 @ 94.72mph
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

you've got to get some guages man, so you can really tune that thing. keep us updated (because you always give us all of the info we need).
I have been thinking of waiting for a howells ecu for my car, but if you get some good results I might want to try this route.

peace
WIKKI


THAT is not f**king THAT!
THIS is f**king THIS!