Ok I am having problems getting this thing installed. I was told that all I had to do is jack the car up and up bolt the bolts holding in the fuel lines and the filter, but I played it safe and read the chiltons manual.
First thing it says is to release the fuel pressure in the lines by unplugging the fuel pump harness (cutting the power) and start the car and let it run til it die (fuel starvation). Well I unhooked the fuel pump harness but the damn car wouldn't stall. It ran with the fuel pump disconnected for an hour. The gas needle was way below E on the dash.
So then I just give up and tried to unbolt the bolts to the filter, well fuel starting to leak out slowly and got faster has I loosened up the bolt more. This was too dangerous with gas leaking like this so I tighted everything back up and through in the towel.
#38760, "RE: Fuel Filter" In response to Reply # 1
No the gas didn't drip out, it shot out with some force behind it. Not alot of force but enough to get me to tighten that bolt up. How long is it going to come out and why didn't my car stall like it should have?
#38761, "RE: Fuel Filter" In response to Reply # 2
What year is your car?
It definitely should have stalled if you unplugged the right connector. It's the one under the square metal cover by the passenger side under the backseat. I unplugged this one, started the car and it died instantly. I still had about 8-12 ounces of gas drip all over with the pressure relieved. But it did not shoot out, it just dripped.
#38762, "RE: Fuel Filter" In response to Reply # 0
This same thing happened to me when I changed my filter. My car would never die so I said screw it. All I did was cut up a milk jug to use as a drain pan. I loosened the bolt just enough so the gas would drip down into the jug then used a rag to clean up the remains. I also read somewhere on here though where you can relieve the pressure from the fuel rail. There should be a pressure release on the end of the rail where you can do that.
1996 Eclipse GS *Tanabe Racing Medallion exhaust-Iceman intake-Greddy Headers-Top Fuel UDP-Front strut tower brace-MSD 8.5mm wires-NGK plugs-ES mm inserts-APEX Short shifter-Tenzo 1.5" lowering springs-F&R crossed drilled/slotted rotors-Tokico Blues
#38763, "RE: Fuel Filter" In response to Reply # 4
You know what, I think this chilton manual is wrong!!
I took out the back seat, took off the center metal over, it had 4 brass bolts on it and unplugged the harness that was underneath it. I have a 1996 Talon. I saw another metal cover on the passenger side but the manual said take the center cover off.
#38765, "RE: Fuel Filter" In response to Reply # 5
this is true...my chilton's said the same. I assume the passenger side cover is correct due to the fact that my car died right away when I started it after unplugging that plug.
Another thing: depending on your car's build date, you might have bought the incorrect filter. I have a 96 talon also, but since mine was built after a certain date, It takes the 97 filter, which is a different size than the 96 filter and won't fit the fitting or piping. It took 4 auto parts stores to figure this out. None of them asked me the build date of my car. Check the replacement filter to see if it is the same size as the one under your car - the 97 one is a little bit smaller than the 96.
#38766, "RE: Fuel Filter" In response to Reply # 7
It did the same thing to me too. Gas was shooting out until I loosen the bolt some more then it just drip for a little bit.
I unplugged the fuel pump and ran the car for 10 minutes - never died.
I just put a towel around the filter when loosening the bolt. It will stop. I played it safe and wait a good hour plus after turning off the engine before I took the fuel filter out.
Make sure you tighten the bolt back on tightly. Use a socket wrench to tighten it. I uses a plain wrench and my muscles and it leaked when I turn the car on.
Us e one of those socket wrench (I think that's what their called - you know - the ones that click as you turn the bolt - you can switch it to loosen the bolt or tighten the bolt - you all know what I'm talking about.)
I also used the Chilton Book. I've done the Fuel Filter twice now (once at 45,000 and at 90,000 miles)
Good Luck.
Disclaimer: I will not be reposnible for any accidents based on the information provide above. Hahaha
#38767, "RE: Fuel Filter" In response to Reply # 8
DAMN, I knew I had the 97+ style filter, because I saw it under the car. Well I forgot and got the wrong filter. I took the old one off and then noticed that the one I had was bigger and wasn't going to work. I left to go back to AdvancedAuto and a fluke snow storm came up that turned at 20 minture trip into a 2 hour trip. Still ain't got the filter on yet because it was too cold to work on the car.
But atleast I know exactly what to do now. The fuel does stop after while.
#38768, "RE: Fuel Filter" In response to Reply # 9
*ahem* yo peeps, not to burst the bubble but i think you're unplugging the fuel guage harness...they are right by each other, and with no power to the pump, and only the fuel in the charcol canister (from the fuel fumes blah bla) your car would have cranked over and ran for like 15 to 20 seconds TOPS.....
Mack '97 GS -Flowmaster 40 Deltaflow w/3" tip -Autometer Bezel pod w/Autometer Phantom Oil Pressure & Voltmeter -F/R Strut Bars -K&N Drop-in w/Drilled airbox -Kenwood 716S HU + 10Disc w/Infinity Reference 6x9" (R) 5 1/4" (F) -Door chime mod, Power Antenna mod, scrape-the-front-bumper-cover-too-much mod
Mack '97 GS -Flowmaster 40 Deltaflow w/3" tip -Autometer Bezel pod w/Autometer Phantom Oil Pressure & Voltmeter -F/R Strut Bars -K&N Drop-in w/Drilled airbox -Kenwood 716S HU + 10Disc w/Infinity Reference 6x9" (R) 5 1/4" (F) -Door chime mod, Power